Redneck Re-curve

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67/6barracuda

67/6barracuda

FABO Gold Member
FABO Gold Member
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Jun 24, 2013
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Location
Sharpsburg, GA
Re-curved my distributor today and of course I don't have the proper bench vise or tools for the job. I was determined to make it happen while the wife took the kids to Chucky Cheese. I previously change out one of the medium springs to a light spring and it made a seat of the pants difference. Today I changed out the other medium spring for another light. Then adjusted the mechanical advance from 24* to 16*. Planning on running 18* initial with 16* mechanical for a total of 34* all in estimately by 2400 rpms. My car made the best vacuum at 18* initial but there was to much left in the distributor. Hopefully the car likes the adjustment.
20170513_191434.jpg

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20170513_185100.jpg
 
Johnny Dart said:
Cool deal.....What springs (manufacturer) are you using ?
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Not exactly sure they came with the Jeggs distributor when I bought it. Set of blacks (heavy), blues(medium), and silvers(light). I used this chart pulled off line as a reference.
20170513_215300.jpg
 
67/6barracuda said:
Not exactly sure they came with the Jeggs distributor when I bought it. Set of blacks (heavy), blues(medium), and silvers(light). I used this chart pulled off line as a reference. View attachment 1715047479
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Hey 67/6barracuda!! I checked out your post earlier but didn't write anything. But, let me tell you, you posted some great pics and I appreciate the details you included in your post!!

And don't apologize for you home made set up (it's called ingenuity). The great majority of FABO members don't have the money to buy all the fancy tools required to improve their engine performance especially when you're only going to use the "special" tool once or twice in your life!!
The only question I have is , "what's the purpose of the "protractor thing" that you put on top of the distributor (first pic)?? It looks cool but what's it for???


thanks,
treblig
 
Only thing I might have done different in that situation would be to wrap a scrap of a soda can around the jaws of your "vise" to protect the shaft
 
I've used a protractor before to see what the mechanical in the distributor was. Great hillbilly engineering!

I use a wide zip tie taped to the rotor, same approach as you with a different item.

Nice job!
 
67Dart273 said:
Only thing I might have done different in that situation would be to wrap a scrap of a soda can around the jaws of your "vise" to protect the shaft
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Isn't the end of that shaft hardened?? Either way the soda can idea isn't bad.

Treblig
 
Treblig said:
Hey 67/6barracuda!! I checked out your post earlier but didn't write anything. But, let me tell you, you posted some great pics and I appreciate the details you included in your post!!

And don't apologize for you home made set up (it's called ingenuity). The great majority of FABO members don't have the money to buy all the fancy tools required to improve their engine performance especially when you're only going to use the "special" tool once or twice in your life!!
The only question I have is , "what's the purpose of the "protractor thing" that you put on top of the distributor (first pic)?? It looks cool but what's it for???


thanks,
treblig
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Treblig,
The protractor was used to determine the true mechanical advance in the distributor. What I did was bent over a cotter pin and tape it to the rotor, then positioned it at 0* with the shaft of the distributor locked down with the vise grip. I then can turn the rotor and figure out the mechanical advance. In this case it showed 12* on the protractor. You then have to multi by 2 to get crankshaft* so therefore my distributor had 24* mechanical/centrifugal advance. I wanted to be around 18* mechanical so I loosened both adjustment screws in order to take out some timing. I set it at 8* on the protractor multi again by 2 and I get 16* of timing in the distributor. Now I can run more initial timing which ill set at 18* to give me 34* of total timing. I hope I answered your question. Thanks again Treblig...oh by the way your exhaust manifolds are still working great on my car.
 
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crackedback said:
I've used a protractor before to see what the mechanical in the distributor was. Great hillbilly engineering!

I use a wide zip tie taped to the rotor, same approach as you with a different item.

Nice job!
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Crackedback,
I believe the credit is all yours my friend i believe you posted a while back on this idea. In return you gave me the confidence to to do the job. Thank you for your Mopar service.
 
67/6barracuda said:
Treblig,
The protractor was used to determine the true mechanical advance in the distributor. What I did was bent over a cotter pin and tape it to the rotor, then positioned it at 0* with the shaft of the distributor locked down with the vise grip. I then can then turn the rotor and figure out the mechanical advance. In this case it showed 12* on the protractor. You then have to multi by 2 to get crankshaft* so therefore my distributor had 24* mechanical/centrifugal advance. I wanted to be around 18* mechanical so I loosened both adjustment screws in order to take out some timing. I set it at 8* on the protractor multi again by 2 and I get 16* of timing in the distributor. Now I can run more initial timing which ill set at 18* to give me 34* of total timing. I hope I answered your question. Thanks again Treblig...oh by the way your exhaust manifolds are still working great on my car.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the shout out on my manifolds!! And yes you answered my question, I only wish I had your patience for the distributor work?? My Barracuda runs fine but I know that adjusting the timing would help!!

Treblig
 
67/6barracuda said:
Crackedback,
I believe the credit is all yours my friend i believe you posted a while back on this idea. In return you gave me the confidence to to do the job. Thank you for your Mopar service.
Click to expand...
After getting the distributor back in the car Ill drive it for awhile and then start playing with the vacuum advance. The jeggs dist. only comes with 5-7* in the can. From what I've been reading the complete total timing should be around 18 initial, 16 mechanical, and 45*-50*total with the vacuum advance hooked up for cruising the highway (economy).
Treblig said:
Thanks for the shout out on my manifolds!! And yes you answered my question, I only wish I had your patience for the distributor work?? My Barracuda runs fine but I know that adjusting the timing would help!!

Treblig
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Treblig,
Believe or not it doesn't really take that long. I just installed it in the car, fired it up, and set the initial at 18*. Two things I noticed already and I haven't even left the driveway. 1. Fired right off with no hesitation. 2. This thing is revving right up like never before. I can't wait to test drive it and dial it in. Then of course I still need to work the vacuum advance.
 
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Sounds like a good plan. Good work on the distributor. Thanks for the compliment

If you have access to a vacuum pump, you could grab the true vacuum can number using the protractor.
 
crackedback said:
Sounds like a good plan. Good work on the distributor. Thanks for the compliment

If you have access to a vacuum pump, you could grab the true vacuum can number using the protractor.
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Your right and I should have done that...dang it!!! I have a pump could have drew a reading while it was out and made the adjustment with my protractor. Thanks again ill remember that the next time I pull the distributor.
 
If you have room for the protractor, do it with it in the engine. Maybe trim the protractor a bit to fit easier.
 
Someone's a veteran.... or knows one lol I actually carry one of those protractors in my jeep cause I get stuck teaching map reading to new privates dang near monthly
 
dukeboy_318 said:
Closer than me. I'm at 12.5 years Army Guard.
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Stay at it man you'll get there. I am active duty and about tired of it. Hard to have a normal consistent life. The older I get the more I want to settle down. Plus the daily grind has had its toll on me.
 
My plan: set the initial with the "vac gauge method" (Google it), too long to type out! then set the total to 35 with the FBO $22 plate (can plugged). mix/match springs (after tossing the heavy one with the elongated loop on one end) so you are just under the pinging point at WOT up thru the gears on your hottest/driest (most likely to ping) day then plug in the can & adj it with a 3/32 allen wrench so you are just under the pinging point in everyday driving under varying load/RPM conditions on your hottest/driest day (CCW slows the rate/not the total & get the right can for your app (a DD needs more advance than a race app). there is silent ping/peoples' hearing varies/gas quality varies so give yourself a cushion down from the pinging point. check/correct rotor phasing. reduce rotor tip to cap terminal clearance to .015 (drill out rotor rivet & replace with a piece of metal). confirm bushing slop is minimal. reduce lower shaft axial play to .005 (speedway motors has a kit for $5) or source 1/2" ID washers with no bevels on the one side (ID/OD). use a black or brown cap with ribs underneath with BRASS terminals.
 
Nice! Great idea. The next one I do I will do a build thread, I am a guy with a dist machine though. Hey guys stick it out in the Military I am a retired MSGT of 25 years, Yeah sometimes it really sucked.
 
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