Redrilling For Larger Bolt Pattern

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Beastiedoggie

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I need to have a set of axles redrilled for the 4.5 bolt pattern. Can anyone tell me about the pros and cons....or refer me to a shop that does this?? Thanx
Darryl[/b]
 
from moser web site

Redrilling Bolt Patterns
To suit your requirements, we can redrill new bolt patterns on axles, rotors, hubs, and brake drums. See our price sheet for your application, and feel free to contact us if you have any questions!

Axles - redrilling only $50 pair
Axles - plug & redrill holes $70 pair
Rear Drums or Rotors $50pair
Front discs or hubs
Redrilling Only $50 pair
Counterbore if necessary $10 pair
Plug & redrill $70 pair
4 lug rotors, plugged & redrilled to 5 lug, (Pinto, Monza, Vega, etc)(includes 1/2" rotor studs) $75 pair
6 lug front rotors plugged & redrilled to 5 lug $75 pair

also quick performance does it too - they get about $125 including redrilling the drums to fit


cons= this time of year there is a 3-4 week turnaround time + shipping time
 
Con= it puts the wheel studs real close to the edge of the axle flange.
Click to expand...

I have not done this, so take this with a grain of salt .... The typical 1/2" Mopar wheel studs have a .685" knurl. So yes, if you drill the the new holes for these press in studs then there is very little meat left on the flange. However, if you drill the hole size for a 1/2" tap, then tap the holes and use cap screw inserted from the backside it leaves considerably more meat on the flange. It makes sense to me, but like I said, I have not done it.
 
It does put them close to the edge but the 68 I bought had it done yrs. ago with a stout 340 and 4:10's running 12's with just 7/16 studs and never had a problem in several yrs. of racing.

Another way to go if you want to use 1/2 is to use screw in studs.
 
Just a note about using the screw in studs. Ensure that they have small heads. Mine are moroso allen head and the head is so big it interferes with the wheel cylinder and parking brake strut. I think Moser sells some that have a low profile head and maybe ARPs 12 Pt head is low profile, or you can find a grade 8 cap screw at your local hardware store.
 
Are we talking LBP 14 inch wheels here???

I'm planning on 15's when I switch...but I thought I read somewhere that the register on the end of the axle is what centres the wheel against the flange... not the lugs!!!

I don't think the wheel centres are the same dia for both size wheels, (as for ralleys)... mags are usually hollowed out in behind and don't rely on the reg. to centre the wheel.

I'm hesitant to redill my axles...Im picking up a B body 8 3/4 rear on Monday, (wheel to wheel). I think I would rather pay to shorten the B axles instead of redrilling the A's.
 
Man...I want to thank all you guys for responding to my question. I really appreciate all the help....believe me it saves quite a bit of time from hanging on the phone waiting for a tech rep. You guys have done it and know the pros and cons....thanx agin fellas from the midwest!!!
Mopars 4 ever
 
Been there and done all the leg work..Here is what I did..Had the axles sent out and had the holes filled and new ones drilled..I didn't use the Mopar wheel stud..Like mentioned there is very little meat left on the outer edge due to the large diameter of the knurl. What I did do was go through a wheel stud book and I found a stud that was the same length, pitch and was considerably smaller on the diameter than the Mopar one..The stud's application was for a '81 Oldsmobile station wagon...I brought the studs with me to the maching shop and they made the holes to fit..Cost for two axles drilled, filled and stuids pressed in 125.00 and the cost of the studs..2.00 each...Hope this helps
 
i had MOSER do my fronts and backs and they did a GREAT job!!!!...the ONLY thing you will have to do is unscrew the bolts from the flange and REMOVE the lock washers!!!!....if you REMOVE the lock washer you WONT have a problem with your brake cylinder and e-brake.

ive had NO problems with mine and i even left the original holes!!!!
 
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