Removal of undercoating

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mopars

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Hey
Guys i'm looking for opinions on what is the best way on removing undercoating?
 
Heat it with a propane torch and it will roll off with a scraper. Just don't be in the line of fire as the hot smoldering pieces fall to the ground.
 
get a cheap heat gun from Harbor Freight Tools along with some putty knifes.
You'll want to avoid flamable chemicals if you use a heat gun. I put a cement block handy to clean the putty knife on.
 
I was recently involved removing a LOT of undercoating from the Talgo trains in Seattle that were grounded for crack repair.

We used three methods in the shop: mechanical removal (air hammer with phenolic chisel and wire wheel), heat (plumbers' torch w/ putty knife) and chemical (ZEP brand paint stripper).

The paint stripper is good if you're going for bare metal, but it's a real mess. Imagine going over the underside of the car with Jasco. I've heard gasoline works very well (bad fumes); kerosene or turpentine would probably do it too.

Whichever way you go - stripper or solvent - you'll have to get the mess cleaned up before you paint. Which means the stripper neutralized and all the softened paint and undercoat off or the solvent and greasy smeared up undercoating all cleaned off real well. Of course, if you aren't re-painting, I'd advise trying some solvent to soften the undercoating; maybe put a heat lamp on the area to accelerate the process (especially if the work space is not heated). For my own project, this is the option I'd try.

The heat is the next best, but the fumes that hot stuff gives off are horrible. Not again!

The air hammer was an absolute PITA. I spent more time sharpening blades than chipping undercoat. And the wire wheel is always a joy to use on any task. Free accupuncture while you work!

There's my .02 and a bump...

-bill
 
Another vote for propane torch and putty knife. I removed all mine that way. Used "Goof-Off" the remove the residue lickety-split.
 
I used propane torch and putty knife to remove most undercoating. For remnants heat area and use a handheld (not too stiff) wire brush, it removes it dry like powder and leaves a super clean surface.
 
I use a cheap heat gun $25 (harbor fright) and a dull wood chesiel. Just make sure not to DIG into the metal. For residue i use a nylon wheel (6$ from walmart) attached to my die grinder $10 (again from harbor frieght)
 
Spay it with PB blaster and let it sit over night then scape it with a putty knife.
 
cheap heat gun and a putty knife. no chemicals, no flammables and you wont blow yourself up. easy clean up
 
I'll vouch for heat gun with putty knife and lots of elbow grease. Then spray on some WD-40 and wire brush for the final residue. Then you can degrease with some heavy duty degreaser and some green 3M (or similar) scouring pads. Rinse with water and repeat...then rinse and dry and ready to paint.
 
i have used a propane torch and a putty knife and a gasket scraper.
you only want to warm it up and make it soft, not burn it. if you use a grinder to clean it up after, remember there is asbestos in that old stuff, you don't want to make it fly.
my real question is why you want to remove it? the new stuff is not as good as the old stuff (imo) if you need to remove it to weld in subframe connectors or torque boxes, ok, but just remove what you need to, then use the new stuff to touch it up. i have removed the old stuff from a 57 and the bare metal underneath was perfect. Doug
 
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