Removing frame rails & inner fenders questions

-
3

330Scott

Member
Joined
Apr 14, 2005
Messages
9
Reaction score
0
Hi all. Next weekend we will be removing the front frame rails & inner fenders from a '74 Dart Sport for transplanting into a '69 GTS. We are basically going to sawzall or cut the parts off the DS and then take our time prepping the parts for the transplant.

I am not an A-body guy (sorry), so I need some help in determining the best method of removing these parts. We will be pulling a utility trailer for hauling the parts, so my gut instinct is to basically just take a cutting torch and cut out the entire frame rails & inner fenders in one fell swoop - this would include the part of the firewall between the inner fenders. Does this sound like a good plan? Or is there a better way to go about this?

Does anyone have any pics of a 67 or newer A-body on a rotisserie, bottom side up? This would really help me in getting ready for our little hatchet job.

Also, what is the width of the frame rails from outside edge to outside edge? Assuming that we are able to remove the parts as a complete unit, I need to make sure that they will fit on my utility trailer.

Thanks for your help everyone. My friend's GTS is in dire need of an inner fender & frame rail on the drivers side. I refuse to ride with him anymore because it is so scary.

Later,

Scott
 
Wouldn't it distort too much with a torch? I use a demo saw or a large grinder. Of course if you're hooked up you can always use the plasma cutter.
 
Good point regarding the torch. Hadn't thought of that. Thanks.

Now I'm starting to think that if we just do a straight cut through the floor boards from roughly the rear of a door to the same place on the other door and then cut the A-pillars off at the bottom side of the windshield, that it might be the quickest way to do the job. Plus we will get the complete firewall in case it is needed for the GTS resto.

Anyone else?
 
For this to work and not turn into a piece of twisted metal from a movie,allot needs to be done.Both cars need to be reinforced to stop twisting of either parts.The new front end needs to have two 2x3 square tubing bars installed to keep it straight when removed and a x brace.A 2x3 brace needs to be installed to stop the car from flexing and twisting when on the stands.This is installed about 6 inches back of the cut to be made.You could leave the K-member in place with nothing else on it to serve as the reinforcement bars? If this is not done,you could have a very uneven car and alignment problems and mismatched panels.This will have to be MIG welded and be sure to make measurements to be sure you are square when removing and reinstalling the front end.Mrmopartech
 
How many times have you done this?
Oh, this question was for Mrmopartech.
 
Mopartech, how many front sub-frame assemblies have you done? Do you have any documented, with illus.? I'd like to see. Mine needs to be done.
 
I have done plenty of graphting front ends on cars and trucks.So you want me to go back into the history files and pull them out,right.Please excuse me as this might take a bit,since I have been dealing with building super stockers,road race cars and off road trucks.Now since you are WV,and I am in Montreal Canada,the best is for you and I to talk and get you to do some good basic work so you can get the best results possible from your ride.What tools do you have,equipment to do the job,is going to be farmed out or done at home?Who do you have to help you?,do you have some one to weld it for you?,are you doing it?This can be done at home and with great results,as long as you take precautions and measure 2&3 times before cutting,and do not use a torch either.Do you have the body measurements to ensure a straight car? Alot of items need to be in place to do this,I just want you safe to remove it and reinstall it straight!If you wish to discuss it,give me a call at 450 424 0445 after 6pm during the week,and I will call you back on my dime,Mrmopartech
 
No not all history of all the cars and trucks you've done, this site is pretty
specific. I'm not doing this now, probably next winter, and debating whether
to tackle it myself or let a guy I know, Bucky Hess do it. I am always
expressing interest whenever the subject comes up.
Critical points I don't see mentioned are support points, and how much
load dispersion.
I'm still researching, if you HAVE files on a mopar, better yet ABody, to PULL,
that would be very helpfull to many here.

JIM.

Oh yeah, I forgot this is not a grafting job, that to me is an adaptation.
 
f634cb7e.jpg
 
Halfaed, great pics. Thank you so much for giving me a visual idea of what I will be working with. Here is another question for you. Where does the tranny cross member reside in relation to the front frame rails and do the frame rails extend toward the rear of the car beyond the trans cross member? Also, did your graft job go smoothly? Are you satisfied with the ride & drivability?

Thanks,

Scott
 
Well we cut the front clip off the Dart Sport yesterday. What a fun little project that was. \\:D/

Other than setting the parts car on fire a few times, it was pretty straight forward.

Halfaed, it cracks me up to look at your pics again because we made the same cuts as you did except that we went a little higher up on the A-pillar.

So thanks again everyone. Now my friend with the GTS has one fewer reason to make his 'vert a safe & road worthy cruiser. Kind of funny though, is that when I asked Steve if he though he got a good deal, he said "I dunno, there is a little rust at the tops of the one inner fender & by one of the shock tower mounts." Well for a 30+ year old rust belt car & $62.50 what do you want. :rolleyes: :thumbup:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top