Removing torsion bar

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MoparFan

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Hi
new member here, and newbie in mechanic !!!

I'm swapping my Dart to 74 disc brake. So I took the opporunity to change every bushing I could, so I got the Polygraphite Super Front end kit from PST.

Now the only thing staying between begining to install new parts and now, is the driver side torsion bar...Can't get that thing out of the lower control arm.
I have put different rust remover product (Release All, WD_40, etc...).
I have removed from is place the lower control arm and heated socket where the torsion bar goes and tried to hammered the control arm out...no success
Reinstall the lower control arm in is place, heated the socket, clamp a visegrip on the torsion bar and hammered the visegrip....no success
Tried to twist the torsion bar also = no success....

Any suggestion on how I could tried??? :scratch:
 
Assuming you know there is a keeper ring on the back side of the torsion bar? Remove it. There is an adjustment bolt in the lower arm that puts tension on the torsion bar. Unscrew that ALL the way. That should release the bind. I then take a drift pin(short bolt) and drive the torsion bar out gently, Backwards.
 
As you assume I had remove the clip and the bolt is unscrwe all the way. When you write "...then take a drift pin(short bolt) and drive the torsion bar out gently, Backwards...", I don't understand how you do that, and i'm also not sure of you would use as the short bolt.
What size of bolt ( just as a reference in size)?
And how or where to install it to drive the torsion bar out?

Thanks for your help.
 
Let me just add that it's a good idea to use some anti-seizing compound when you reinstall the bars into the sockets. The'll come out easier the next time. When I changed mine I had the same trouble as you in getting them out....they had been there for some 35 years. I used a flat jaw pipe wrench around the torsion bar about 3" away from the control arm, and used a porta power wedge head between the control arm and the pipe wrench. The bars moved back and out easily. If you don't own a porta power, you can rent or borrow one.
 
awww man, I'm going to have to go through this too soon. Thanks for the nightmare in advance. :cussing:
 
demonwiese said:
awww man, I'm going to have to go through this too soon. Thanks for the nightmare in advance. :cussing:
Click to expand...

If you need help, I will come give you a hand. I had to do this to mine when I swapped the K frame out.
 
I made a tool out of 2 u-bolts ( a little bigger than the bar) and a T shaped steel bar. I used the U-bolts to clamp to the torsion bar & beat the hell out of the steel bar untill it came out.
 
Ok, this job is no big deal. Seems people make it sound a lot worse than it is. We are taking torsion bars out almost weekly. The problem isn't so much as the process as is the right tool for the job. We have made up a tool that mimics the tool shown in the Chrysler service manual and it works great.

First things first. NEVER use vise grips. The problem with vice grips are that they actual cut into the bar creating a point in which the bar can brake. How do I know this? I used to do that too (long, long time ago) and have had bars brake on me.

The tool is made up of an aluminum block lets say 3" inches square by about 5 linches in height. We bored a hole through it about the average size of a torsion bar. The block was then cut in two through the middle of the hole and we had one side machine a few thou so we could have a crimping interferance fit. A hole was then drilled into the end of the block so we could thread it and attach a handle to it. The two halfs are then bolted together with high grade allen keyed bolts that are counter sunk.

To install the tool, you take the two halfs, place them around the bar, bolt the two halfs together with the allen keyed bolts. Tighten the bolts. Get out the 5 lb hammer and go for it. Works everytime easily.

The reason for using aluminum is two fold. One it doesn't mark up the bar at all, as it is softer than the bar. The second is, when you bash on the block, it compresses the aluminum and actually makes it stronger. So the more you hit it, the higher the desity of the aluminum.

Sounds like a bit of trouble to make this tool but, once you have it, you have it for life. I can send pics of the tool or if you really get stuck, let me know and I will ship you the tool providing you promise to send it back.
 
thanks a lot for all the hints.

still working on it, just got to have time to do the tool and to hammer the thing out...

And for the wisegrip on the bar....I had already read that somewhere else, but tought "bah, what the hell brand new bar are 225$ for the pair..."until I call back my Chrysler dealer and have him confirm the price. 226$cnd/each... :error: :violent1:
Now I just hope the bar will last :eye: ...if not will equip the car will 340 torsion bars.
 
Well, if you are in Montreal Canada like I think you are....I am about 6 hours from you. Want me to send you pics of the tool, or would you like me to send it to you ?

I'm about 10 minutes from Niagara Falls.
 
:twisted: :mrgreen: :twisted: :mrgreen: :bom:

Got the freakin bar out finally !!!

Thanks for all your tips, finally got it using a 7"x2.5"x.5" steel bar and 2 U-bolt....got those U-bolts at the one end, and having almost 5" to hammered it finally gave up !!! :geek:

@69383FB: yep it is Montréal Canada, and thanks for the offer for the tool.

Now this weekend I will try to replace the lower control arm bushings.

Once that is done, can start to reassemble the front end !!! :mrgreen: :mrgreen:
 
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