Repairing a stripped thread????

[blackace]

When I did a compression check on my motor I had to pull the header loose on the drivers side and stripped the very first thread on the #1 cylinder for the header. This is the one that runs in the water passage.

I was looking at a couple books that I have and they show how to repair the thread by inserting a coil type thread after drilling it out. Both books are atleast 20 years old.

Is this still how it's done? Anyone know where I can get this? I am assuming since I have to drill the thread out I would have to remove the head so the metal shavings don't get into the coolant, correct? If I drilled and tapped it I would have to go the next size up? Any one have any suggestions on how to repair this?


THANKS!

 

[64dartwagon]

your looking for a Heli-coil. It comes with a drill bit, tap, loctite, and the inserts and tool. Most kits cost less than $25. Check with your local parts store. All you do is drill out the threads then use the tap and put loctite on the insert and thread it in with the special tool. If you put grease on the bit and tap it will hold a majority of the shavings. Plus you can top off the radiator to flush out the area around the hole after it's set.

 

[smythge]

I just had to put a helicoil in two of my head bolts both worked great and no water leaking, although I did have to pull the head to get to mine, but they were the holes closest to the firewall. $27.00 for the kit, includes the helicoils, a tap and drill bit, make sure you drill the hole straight, if you mess up the helicoils you will have to weld the holes and drill them out and retap not fun.

 

[moper]

DO yourself a favor..try to rinse out the hole with water first, then make sure the water/coolant is drained below the level of the hole by a little bit. The Helicoil setup works great, as long as the original trheads are buggered, but the hole is still th eoriginal size. Then, replace the short header bolt they give you with one 1/4" longer on the threads. The helicoil gets coated with red locktite..then install it per the kit instructions and let it dry overnight. Then, use the longer bolt, and some thread sealer or RTV on the threads, install the header and bolt, and let that sit overnight. The fill it..It shouldnt leak. rushing it may give you a slight leak later.

 

[D-mailman]

heli coils are great repair. After the repair...use stud with Mopers instructions and no more problem with leaks or pulled threads. Terry.

 

[66dartgt]

Sage advice from moper. The reason you want to wait with the silicone is that it cures with time from exposure to moisture. If you put the part into service too soon the silicone wont have cured, and it will leak.

I've seen lots of people put thermostat housings on with silicone and have it leak. Why ? they didnt allow the silicone to cure before putting pressure and heat on the material. It takes a while, for silicone to cure. Usually a 24hr period is plenty of time.

 

[buffoni88]

Wow, last post in 06? I'm bringin this one back! So I just recently put a new manifold in. The threads where the manifold mounts to the cylinder head were stripped, 2 of them. I bought a heli-coil kit. Question now is...can I do this without removing the manifold, AGAIN? If I do have to remove the manifold, do I need to remove the cylinder head also? Ughhhhh

 

[buffoni88]

Side note: I really don't want to remove the intake again! I just started it up, it's a very, very slow drip, even at WOT. Should I just throw some coolant repair stuff in there and call it a day? Need advice please!

 

[crackedback]

IMO, you really need to remove the intake to insure you get any metal shavings cleaned up properly.

I'm sure you could do it with intake attached if the helicoil tool is long enough.

 

[buffoni88]

That's the problem I was having...the tool is only about half an inch long. Wonder if anybody has ever fab'd a tool to do it so you don't have to remove it. I have a vacuum attachment to get the shavings out and clean it up. I know I SHOULD take off the manifold, I'm just feeling lazy right now, after 2 weeks straight of 2am nights in the garage wrenching, then wrenching on airplanes all day at work!

 

[dodge freak]

U don't have to pull the intake. Get some studs--look for ones with lots of threads or find a 2 inch bolt that is threaded all the way and cut the head off the bolt.

Then jam 2 nuts on top and screw the stud in, should go deeper and hit good threads. Have a washer under the 2 nuts and tighten one nut down. Should get as tight as you want.

Done this trick a few times, never has let me down

 

[krazykuda]

A heli-coil will fix the thread just fine. I like to use the "worlds best stop leak" for sealing the threads. It is the fine silver powder stop leak you can get in a little tube at most parts stores. You pour a little in the radiator before starting the engine and let the engine run for 30 - 45 minutes. The stop leak will seal any minor leaks in the water jacket including the threads for the exhaust. You don't need to use the whole tube to seal the threads, I recommend like 1/4 of it and let it run.

 

[buffoni88]

Awesome awesome awesome. Thank you for the advice! Dodge freak...that idea sounds so simple, yet I would have NEVER thought to do that!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[buffoni88]

U don't have to pull the intake. Get some studs--look for ones with lots of threads or find a 2 inch bolt that is threaded all the way and cut the head off the bolt.

Then jam 2 nuts on top and screw the stud in, should go deeper and hit good threads. Have a washer under the 2 nuts and tighten one nut down. Should get as tight as you want.

Done this trick a few times, never has let me down

I just want to say THANK YOU one more time. You just saved me hours of repetitious labor (I was about to tear the manifold out again and heli-coil the stripped threads). I did what you suggested, and it worked PERFECTLY. I was lucky enough to have a few turns of good threads at the bottom. Went to home depot and got a 3/8-16 X 4" bolt. First, I put the nut, spun it all the way up, then the washer, then the lock washer. I then tightened the "stud" bolt down, then threaded the nut all the way down onto the washers/intake manifold. Torqued it up to spec, cut the stud down, and done!!!!! If you're ever near atlanta, let me know, I owe you some :drinkers: until you ukea case of whatever you'd like! haha). :blob: <------------- This is how I feel right now, by the way

 

[buffoni88]

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[dodge freak]

Hey U made the job easier yet, lol

Sure the car show judges would love our homemade fixes

 

[dodge freak]

Stud trick works good on thermostat housings also. I like using studs right from the start, before there is a problem.

 

[buffoni88]

You know, I would have done that, had I thought about it first! I still consider myself to be in the learning phase, so I'm making mistakes, and fixing them, and will NEVER EVER EVER repeat the same mistakes again. I've gained SO much information in the past couple months because of my project, and I can hold a lot of the forum users here responsible for that. This site has turned out to be my most valuable source of information, better than any repair book, any other site I've been on, or any other place I've gone for answers.