Replacing 225 water pump

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nashvegas99

nashvegas99

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Getting ready to replace the water pump and i have a replacement pump that has a metal plate attached with a gasket sandwhiched in between with plastic holders. My question is this...when replacing the pump do i just need to put sealant on the block where the pump attaches or do i need to remove the star wheel and the plate and put sealant on the gasket and then replace the metal plate and install? Thnks. I read my manual but the instructions are limited and mentions nothing about the plate. Thnx
 

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Hi,

That "star wheel" is called the impeller and you would not remove it to put the gasket on. If you are referring to the pump in the picture it looks like there is a little rust on the pump face gasket surface, I would clean that up a little. I like nice, clean, smooth gasket surfaces so there are no leaks. I have always used Permatex #2 sealer for this type of thing. Position the gasket on the pump so all the holes line up then remove the gasket and use your finger to apply a thin film of Permatex #2 to the gasket side that was next to the pump face. Replace the gasket on the pump with the sealer side toward the pump. Now use your finger to apply another thin film of sealer to the side of the gasket that has none on it yet. Now mount the pump on the engine. I like to remove the radiator when removing or installing pumps to give me some working room. When replacing the mounting bolts put some sealer on the threads of any bolts that go through to the water jacket or pump cavity.
When you tighten the mounting bolts a little sealer should squeeze out from the gasket so you know you have a good seal.
 
The pump impeller (star wheel) is pressed on; you do not want to take it off as it would be about impossible to do with out damaging/destroying the impeller and will very likely cause big problems. I have worked sealant in the gaps for the outer layer before, but don't do that any more. I just put it on the block surface, and let the coolant swell up and seal the inner gasket; it may seep a bit.
 
Thnx. Ive got red silicone sealant and plan on draining radiator and removing to replace pump. Ill clean the flat surface and put on the gasket and hope all goes well. Thnx so much for the info.
 
Also, don't forget to replace/install the short hose with new clamps that goes between the pump and the head with a new one or you will wish you had. They are a pain to install after the pump is on with your 225 and impossible with a 170.
Slip it all together at the same time. Easy peasy.
 
I would use Permatex "gasket sealant" on the outer interface. It is a violet, tacky liquid that cleans up with ethanol. It comes in a small bottle w/ a brush. You can also use it to coat bolt threads that go into the water jacket or block (oil leaks).

Good point on the short hose to the head. I used silicone hose (ebay). It is expensive, but not for 3" and should last forever. I was replacing it w/ pump on the block and being more flexible than normal rubber hose made it much easier to work in. Also used special silicone hose clamps (Euro ones work).
 
Put RTV on both sides of the gasket and coat the bolt threads too.
 
First glue the gasket to the block, using Edelbrock Gasgacinch.
Put Gasgacinch on one side of the gasket, and on the block.
Let tack up, then install the gasket. Then put RTV on the other side of the gasket, and install pump.
Hand tight at first, letting the RTV set up for about a half hour. Then torque to spec.

Do not use RTV on the threads of the bolts, unless you like gunked up bolts and threads
when you remove them next time. Use Permatex thread sealant, on any bolt that goes into an oil, or water jacket.

I install the bypass hose after the pump is installed. Put a little WD40 on the inside of the hose, and the fittings. With a little persuasion, it will slide on.
 
nashvegas99 said:
Ok so there is a gasket that goes between the block and the metal plate?
Click to expand...

yes. just slap some rtv on there and bolt that crap together. its not a crazy process. should take you 20 minutes including cleaning off the block surface to get the old gasket off.
 
Yeah, I forgot to mention the gasket to the block; I assumed that was obvious! So much for assuming.....

Be prepared to re-torque the bolts after a few heat/cool cycles; the 2 gaskets will tend to 'settle in' a bit.
 
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