Replacing the Floor Pans

[chlngr1970]

How hard is it to replace the floor pans on a 68 Dart, or 70 Duster? I am considering doing it myself. What tools would I need to do it? I am considering buying a welder. I've never done any welding before, so can a novice do the kind of welding necessary?

j

 

[rumblefish360]

You don't have to weld them in. Eastwood has a bond in system that is just like what the industry has been doing and useing for quite sometime now.

I welded my floors in and it was not hard. To cut the rusted meatl away, I used the entire floor pan as a template, marked around the pan and then an inch smaller as to have a tab to weld to.

I used a nibbler to cut the old pan out though some guys I know use shears. Wgat ever your comphy with. Tin snips are also helpful and dikes. I hammer, a few chisles, wire brushs of various sizes and courseness.

I also went to Eastwood for seam sealer, rust neutralizer and there POR -15 version, rust encapsulater. The results were preety good and it was my first time as well.

Click here to see my nightmare for fun project; http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=10508&page=1&pp=20

 

[chlngr1970]

Thanks for that! I will be reading over that over the next few days. I'll probably put a computer in my garage so I can reference it

j

 

[moparkid340]

thats thim metal
if uv never welded b4 ull prolly burn alot of holes in it trying
just my 2 cents

 

[rumblefish360]

The Sears MIG I have is adjustable and will help alot so U don't burn through, but I did anyway. Practice X3

 

[swisswill]

I used the entire floor pan as a template, marked around the pan and then an inch smaller as to have a tab to weld to.

Rumblefish, did you lap or butt weld? I'm doing the same thing this winter and will also be my first time welding... Not sure if I should go with the butt or a lap. Most I've read say butt is the way to go. Thoughts?

 

[dartman340ta]

It's not all that hard at all .A couple of tips short welds like 1 inch ( stops a lot if warping ) alternate where you weld, make sure you get down on the cross bracing a lot of your strength is there . remember it's a unibody .you can use some self tapping screws to hold in place .give yourself plenty of metal to work with at least 1to 1 1/2 inch's on the hump weld it solid spot welds are ok but solid is better seam seal an under coat the bottom paint the inside that por 15 stuff is great untill you get brake fluid on it (found that out the had way)car sat fora while master cyc leak on to the floor lifted it right off but but easy fix good luck

 

[limelite70]

YUP, these guys have done this before.
if you wait till next year to do your floors good mark might come out with a full floor pan ,like they have for e bodys.
any body heard any thing on those coming out.
thanks

 

[chlngr1970]

You don't have to weld them in. Eastwood has a bond in system that is just like what the industry has been doing and useing for quite sometime now

Do you happen to have the part number for that? Also, do you spot weld it in place, then bond it in between the spot welds, or just use the bond in system?

I also went to Eastwood for seam sealer, rust neutralizer and there POR -15 version, rust encapsulater. The results were preety good and it was my first time as well.

Gonna order some of that myself, just as soon as I get an answer

Thanks!

j

 

[alleyoopmgv]

You can go to your local auto parts place and get some Panel Bond Adhesive, problem is you need a gun for the cartridge. Any way's putting in floor pans is easy. Place your new floorpan over the old one in the car, trace around it , give yourself about an inch or so to weld or glue in. It's pretty easy,but i have probably done it about a hundred times.

 

[AdamR]

Floor pans is a good place to start if you want to learn panel replacement and welding. The carpet will hide it all, LOL

 

[rumblefish360]

Do you happen to have the part number for that? Also, do you spot weld it in place, then bond it in between the spot welds, or just use the bond in system?Gonna order some of that myself, just as soon as I get an answer

Thanks!

j

Sorry I missed this and also that I do not have a part number, but, click here for the company and info you can reesearch at the site.
http://www.eastwoodco.com/index.jsp

I do believe you do not need to weld the pans in just simply overlap the metal and bond.

 

[danmc77]

What bits do you guys use to drill the spot welds? Every time I look, there are several dirrerent designs, and different sizes. What size bit, and what brand/design do you guys use? How long do they last?

 

[rumblefish360]

I used a hammer and chisler. Not recomended, but if your careful, which isn't easy to do. There are advertisements in the mags.

 

[alleyoopmgv]

I used a hammer and chisler. Not recomended, but if your careful, which isn't easy to do.

ditto

 

[alleyoopmgv]

here are a couple of pictures, i got 3/4 length floor pans for this 70 charger r/t that i restored.

 

[danmc77]

I used a hammer and chisler. Not recomended, but if your careful, which isn't easy to do. There are advertisements in the mags.

Well, that's the thing - I've seen the advertisments, but they offer different size bits. Not sure which to use.

the chisle thing sounds harder and more frustrating than drilling out the spots and prying the panels apart. Am I wrong?

 

[AdamR]

I use a bit the size of the spot weld, drill 90% of the way through it and wack it with the air chisel.

 

[chlngr1970]

Is this what you are talking about? If so, I'll order that with some of the rust converter and get started on my floor pans ASAP.

Thanks for your help

j

 

[rumblefish360]

Well, that's the thing - I've seen the advertisments, but they offer different size bits. Not sure which to use.

the chisle thing sounds harder and more frustrating than drilling out the spots and prying the panels apart. Am I wrong?

No, you aint wrong there brother, you aint wrong! The size bits do vary. You can get several sizes. A 3/8 bit would do well if your up for only one bit.

 

[rumblefish360]

Is this what you are talking about? If so, I'll order that with some of the rust converter and get started on my floor pans ASAP.

Thanks for your help

j

That is a kit/package deal they have. They might even have a larger one.

However, that is the stuff I believe. The calking gun from them of cheaper from Home DePot/lowes, etc... will squezze out the material from the tube and it will bond the meatl together.

Alot of modern body shops have been doing this for years without issue.

 

[swisswill]

chlngr1970, did you ever get your floors in with the panel adhesive? Curious how it came out. I'll be doing that next week. I'm welding in sub-frame connectors afterward as well, but the floor is going to be glued.

 

[ted_sweet]

in opinion the floor pan is a suctural part of the car and s/b welded in not glued.

 

[swisswill]

in opinion the floor pan is a suctural part of the car and s/b welded in not glued.

That's what I thought at first. I've since spoken with quite a few bodymen who have said it's structurally sound and crazy strong. If there are bodymen on the board who care to chime in I'd like to hear what you have to say as well.

 

[AdamR]

I all ways weld them in. Never have used glue for quarters or floors.