Rering ??????

[blackace]

I have a few questions. I have been thinking about rering my 318. I looked at the cylinders and they look good. Of course I haven't checked the cylinders with a micrometer but I can still see the hone marks on the walls, I don't see any gouges in the cylinders. I know I should take measurements to be on the safe side. I have the book How to rebuild small block Mopars and they do it in two ways, one using an inside micrometer and the other ring and feller gauge to check tapper. Which would you guys recommend? I haven't priced an inside micrometer but how much do they run?

Do I need to pull the pistons to check tapper? If the walls are ok should I assume the crank would be in good shape too? Or should I plastigauge it anyway? I think I already know what the answers are going to be. Also, there is some light surface rust on cylinders walls but everything turns freely, do I need to hone the walls?

It's an 86 318 and has a roller cam and lifters. If I put in a flat tappet cam and lifters I don't need the girdle for the lifters correct? I think I am going to build something mild for now. I have a Holley 3310 600 CFM and a 4160 750 CFM both vac sec. What would be a good mild cam and intake for it? I think I may leave the heads stock for now.

 

[demon seed]

First things first, assume nothing. Wear of the cylinder walls and crankshaft can be completely unrelated. You have to decide are you going to do the inspection or are you going to get a shop to do it. Either way the engine will need to be completely disassembled and cleaned up, along with all the internals, before an inspection can take place.

 

[blackace]

Well if I'm going to diassemble everything I mine as well take to a machine shop and have them check the block, rods, and crank, right?

 

[demon seed]

Right, unless you're confortable with purchasing the required inside-outside micrometers and are trained in the use of them. I'm not aware of your skill level, I on the other hand have been using mic's for 35 years, it comes down to what you're comfortable with. If you choose to use an outside shop ask around for a reputable one especially one that is up on cylinder honing and block decking if it's required.

 

[moper]

If you're feeling up to it, you can do a pretty good job of snooping with basic stuff. You need a vernier caliper, a semi-decent one will run around $60 locally. You'll also need the feeler gages. You'll have to remove the pistons and rods. To inspect, you need to be prepared to buy new bearings, rings, and at least run a ball hone/glaze breaker thru the cylinders. The taper can be done wiht an old ring, as mentionned int he book. You must check every bore, and every inch or so from the top (ridge) to the bottom (below the ring marks..where the piston skirt goes at the lowest point of travel). Write it all down, it's easier..lol. The rod bearings can tell you if the engine detonated, ran dirty (long oil change intervals), had low oil pressure, if the crank is warped, or the rods are warped, and if the crank journals are std or undersize. The vernier when carefully used can give an idea of taper, and out-of-round on the journals too. Main bearings also display a wear pattern. any spots of copper showing are an indication of wear..Spots is bad, all copper just means they are worn out. If your finger nail catches in any grooves on the journals, the crank needs turning. Basically, keep your eyes wide open, and post pics of the parts if you have a question the book cant answer...everythign in there tells how it lived, and how it was cared for. You just have to listen to it.