Retrofit AMP meter

-

Bryan R Erickson

Active Member
Joined
Oct 16, 2018
Messages
25
Reaction score
5
Location
Charleston, South Carolina
Hello, I'm fairly new to the forums, but I'm looking to put a 60 amp Alternator in my 67 Dart. I've been told that the old AMP meter may not handle it and that it is a fire hazard. It works fine, but I've also heard of people doing retro fit volt meter conversions. What have y'all done and what meters have y'all used? I'd like to continue to keep this car looking fairly stock and hate seeing a dead gauge.
 
my (1972) amp meter was doping about 3 volts under load causing a lot of issues. I dont know how different they were through the years but the studs/posts on the 72 meters were not attached and were not held in this is easily fixable with some silver solder.
 
Here's an old thread, but the meter used "may not" be available. However this thread should give you lots of ideas. Please look through the entire thread, as it covers a lot of ground

Ammeter to Voltmeter...who does it?

The problems with the "full current" ammeter these girls use is several:

1...The bulkhead connector terminals were never intended for that much current. I used to perform HVAC/R service, and part of that was heat pumps/ electric furnaces. They use similar terminals in the heating element wiring. Those DO fail, and they only draw about 20-25A per heater element

2...The ammeter itself can become loose, build heat, and further destroy itself

3...The wiring is no where near large enough for 55+ amp alternators

Along about 70-72, "Ma" started equipping stuff like the C barges with "external shunt" ammeters, which are fed with small wire. The problem with these in Ford / GM/ Chrysler is that they can often be "numb" meaning they do not respond to "small" loads like headlights
 
This is the one my father is currently working on...


That would work good but, I have the 67 Dash, it has the one piece speedo, apm gauge, fuel gauge. I'd need something that could possibly fit in place where the alt meter is.

20180519_000314.jpg
 
Here's an old thread, but the meter used "may not" be available. However this thread should give you lots of ideas. Please look through the entire thread, as it covers a lot of ground

Ammeter to Voltmeter...who does it?

The problems with the "full current" ammeter these girls use is several:

1...The bulkhead connector terminals were never intended for that much current. I used to perform HVAC/R service, and part of that was heat pumps/ electric furnaces. They use similar terminals in the heating element wiring. Those DO fail, and they only draw about 20-25A per heater element

2...The ammeter itself can become loose, build heat, and further destroy itself

3...The wiring is no where near large enough for 55+ amp alternators

Along about 70-72, "Ma" started equipping stuff like the C barges with "external shunt" ammeters, which are fed with small wire. The problem with these in Ford / GM/ Chrysler is that they can often be "numb" meaning they do not respond to "small" loads like headlights
Thank you! Maybe I'll find something in there, there's a lot of pages of info to go through.
 
my (1972) amp meter was doping about 3 volts under load causing a lot of issues. I dont know how different they were through the years but the studs/posts on the 72 meters were not attached and were not held in this is easily fixable with some silver solder.

67's was held in the same type of stud as an electrode from an oil burner off a boiler. I'm not sure how the 72's are. But I know that they're a bit easier to retro fit. I did hear something about doing that though, but I still have all the original wiring, I don't want to take that chance and the car burn down...
 
67's was held in the same type of stud as an electrode from an oil burner off a boiler. I'm not sure how the 72's are. But I know that they're a bit easier to retro fit. I did hear something about doing that though, but I still have all the original wiring, I don't want to take that chance and the car burn down...

LOL never heard that comparison before. In a previous life I did HVAC/R service, and worked on a few oilers. My own house had oil until about 03. If I never SEE an oil gun again it will be "too soon" LOL

If you look through that thread you'll get some ideas. Many of us reworked the new meter to use the old ammeter face, using the center mark as 14V That works well to keep it an "original" sort of look
 
LOL never heard that comparison before. In a previous life I did HVAC/R service, and worked on a few oilers. My own house had oil until about 03. If I never SEE an oil gun again it will be "too soon" LOL

If you look through that thread you'll get some ideas. Many of us reworked the new meter to use the old ammeter face, using the center mark as 14V That works well to keep it an "original" sort of look


HVAC/R is what I do now haha and have since I was about 13. I honestly kind of miss working on the older oil boilers.

I did actually find something on the 3rd page of what you're talking about. It's pretty ingenius. Looks like they used a 2" Sunpro volt gauge. I like the idea. I'll give it a shot, I need something to work other wise my OCD will be on edge with a dead gauge all the time. LOL. Really don't want to keep adding gauges either.

20200101_151424.jpg
 
^^Yes what I used. I've heard the Sunpro gauge is no longer available but you might find one on egag or somewhere^^

I don't know why you would "have" to use the Sunpro but one advantage of them is that they have and adjustment/ calibration pot so you can set the needle where you want for 14V
 
The Sunpro 8215 gauge is all over ebay, and can be had pretty cheap. Bosch took over some of the Sunpro line, and looks to still be making the 8215.
Electrical Voltmeter Automotive Gauge | Style Line 2”
Pep Boys is showing it for $5.99. Maybe they actually have it, and maybe shipping isn't outrageous.
Sunpro Sunpro 2" Black Face Voltmeter | 9652699 | Pep Boys

OH BOY THANK YOU

Ebay seller 17 bucks, free shipping

Sunpro 2" Voltmeter 12V Black / Black Bezel New CP8215 Authorized Distributor | eBay
 
This mod is a bit different in every different instrument panel. Majority of my experience has been in the a-body rally panel. I never got the opportunity to attempt the 67 standard panel you have. I'll tell you this before your sunpro gauge arrives. There are only tiny ears supporting that screen. It wasn't an issue for them since its all captured in their can. With the screen floating in your inst' housing you might consider adding more support. Gravity takes it toll over time. Let us know how it turns out. Good luck
 
This mod is a bit different in every different instrument panel. Majority of my experience has been in the a-body rally panel. I never got the opportunity to attempt the 67 standard panel you have. I'll tell you this before your sunpro gauge arrives. There are only tiny ears supporting that screen. It wasn't an issue for them since its all captured in their can. With the screen floating in your inst' housing you might consider adding more support. Gravity takes it toll over time. Let us know how it turns out. Good luck

Sure will, I'll take pics along the way.
 
67's was held in the same type of stud as an electrode from an oil burner off a boiler. I'm not sure how the 72's are. But I know that they're a bit easier to retro fit. I did hear something about doing that though, but I still have all the original wiring, I don't want to take that chance and the car burn down...
i did not do any retro fitting i just soldered the stock gauge and it has worked flawlessly
 
-
Back
Top