GermzD74
Cool Member
Hey everyone, well after being gone for some time after moving and having no internet now im at the library with my mind set on a setup for my slant six.
I would like to get any help and feedback on this setup which i got from a forum from a guy named leu.
Seems to be what I would like for a street car, that is after i manage to collect all the parts i need to start rebuilding the engine.
It would really help if you all can tell me if there are other ways of doing this rebuild and or if there is a cheaper way. I realy dont mind saving money and buying the parts i need as time passes, im not too in a hurry. If there is anything u guys want to get rid off that i can buy for cheap that would be handy to me would also be great!
MAY YOU EXAMINE THIS SETUP AND GIVE ME TIPS AND HINTS PLESE! THANKS!
Setup:
Stall converter 2800 RPM (Good name brand was recommended no cheapies)
Overbore 0,030" - 0.060"
resized Stock cast pistons (silvolites recommended)
Crack check rods if staying under 6000 RPM
stock '68-'75 crank with big hub and grind to 0.010"/0.010" under or more if it needs it
balance rotating assembly with flexplate/flywheel and harmonic balancer (Chech block, crank, head for cracks)
name brand moly rings and 0.010"/0.010" bearings (ex. M77's) and set bearing clearances at 0.0015" for street
use melling High Volume oil pump with 50-60 psi (stock) spring
Use double roller T-Chain
Put in 1.72" intake/1.50" exhaust valves (SB chevy V8's would need to bore a notch on exhaust side only if overbore is less than 0.060")
install 11/32" valve guides and new springs / locks / keepers.
machine the valve spring seats and valve seats, hardened exhaust valve seats recommended
do mild blending and porting in the bowls and ports after have hogged out the valves seats for the biggger valves
mill head to 0.060" to run low octane (9:1 comp.)
MP mechanical pushrods kit and cut to fit with new valves and milled head (can make them about 0.15-0.2" shorter than stock)
MP 276 deg./0.490" lift or 268 deg./0.460" lift Cam for the street car. (might be able to idle down to 700-800 rpm with about 16-18 deg. initial timing advance)
clifford 4bb manifold
edelbrock 500 cfm 4bbl with electronic choke
clifford headers with 2" duals
drop oil pan and pickup 1.-1.5" for extra 1-2 quart capacity
use stock electronic distributor with following advance curve : 15-20 deg. at idle, full mechanical = 30 deg. in by 2200 ROM ( Vacum disconnected. use vacum advance cansiter marked 6.5 or 9 or maybe 10.5
OOOR
MSD 6A with blaster coil recommended
Mopar orange box is cheaper with '70 and up voltage regulator.
I would like to get any help and feedback on this setup which i got from a forum from a guy named leu.
Seems to be what I would like for a street car, that is after i manage to collect all the parts i need to start rebuilding the engine.
It would really help if you all can tell me if there are other ways of doing this rebuild and or if there is a cheaper way. I realy dont mind saving money and buying the parts i need as time passes, im not too in a hurry. If there is anything u guys want to get rid off that i can buy for cheap that would be handy to me would also be great!
MAY YOU EXAMINE THIS SETUP AND GIVE ME TIPS AND HINTS PLESE! THANKS!
Setup:
Stall converter 2800 RPM (Good name brand was recommended no cheapies)
Overbore 0,030" - 0.060"
resized Stock cast pistons (silvolites recommended)
Crack check rods if staying under 6000 RPM
stock '68-'75 crank with big hub and grind to 0.010"/0.010" under or more if it needs it
balance rotating assembly with flexplate/flywheel and harmonic balancer (Chech block, crank, head for cracks)
name brand moly rings and 0.010"/0.010" bearings (ex. M77's) and set bearing clearances at 0.0015" for street
use melling High Volume oil pump with 50-60 psi (stock) spring
Use double roller T-Chain
Put in 1.72" intake/1.50" exhaust valves (SB chevy V8's would need to bore a notch on exhaust side only if overbore is less than 0.060")
install 11/32" valve guides and new springs / locks / keepers.
machine the valve spring seats and valve seats, hardened exhaust valve seats recommended
do mild blending and porting in the bowls and ports after have hogged out the valves seats for the biggger valves
mill head to 0.060" to run low octane (9:1 comp.)
MP mechanical pushrods kit and cut to fit with new valves and milled head (can make them about 0.15-0.2" shorter than stock)
MP 276 deg./0.490" lift or 268 deg./0.460" lift Cam for the street car. (might be able to idle down to 700-800 rpm with about 16-18 deg. initial timing advance)
clifford 4bb manifold
edelbrock 500 cfm 4bbl with electronic choke
clifford headers with 2" duals
drop oil pan and pickup 1.-1.5" for extra 1-2 quart capacity
use stock electronic distributor with following advance curve : 15-20 deg. at idle, full mechanical = 30 deg. in by 2200 ROM ( Vacum disconnected. use vacum advance cansiter marked 6.5 or 9 or maybe 10.5
OOOR
MSD 6A with blaster coil recommended
Mopar orange box is cheaper with '70 and up voltage regulator.