rewire the alternator

[412 Stroker]

So I want to get some or all of the amperage not going through the ammeter, I figured I would wire in a voltmeter, now I did some research on these forums and of course now I am confused, hopefully someone will help, I have gone and looked at the MAD circuit rewire page and it says its for a dodge truck is that the correct one?? Catalog

after looking at that I cant eliminate the wire from the alternator going through the firewall, and just go with a fusible link directly to the starter relay stud, if I do that then I have no power inside of the car? So that is why I have to run some supply line into the car but not attach it to the ammmeter?? Ok let me rephrase this what should I do, if I keep it like it is and just add a wire with a fusible link, go directly to the starter relay and leave every thing the way it is would that make any difference?? I guess I am worried about putting 60 amps or what ever the stock alternator puts out through 30+ year old wiring??

 

[67Dart273]

Either doing this the "mad" way or jumpering right to the starter relay, YOU STILL must have a clean path of "so much" power inside the car. That is where heater, lights, "everything" comes from. So if you simply jumper the alternator to the starter relay, you have not fixed the bulkhead connector problem

Also "in this mix" and NOT fixed by either method is voltage drop in the ignition switch connector or switch itself, and of course the ignition voltage must go "out" through the bulkhead connector and THAT is another potential drop

"One way" to fix / work around that is to use the "run" wire to trigger a relay, and feed all loads off the relay

 

[412 Stroker]

Either doing this the "mad" way or jumpering right to the starter relay, YOU STILL must have a clean path of "so much" power inside the car. That is where heater, lights, "everything" comes from. So if you simply jumper the alternator to the starter relay, you have not fixed the bulkhead connector problem

Also "in this mix" and NOT fixed by either method is voltage drop in the ignition switch connector or switch itself, and of course the ignition voltage must go "out" through the bulkhead connector and THAT is another potential drop

"One way" to fix / work around that is to use the "run" wire to trigger a relay, and feed all loads off the relay

So I guess what your saying is you try to cure one problem and create more, so then what is the best way to fix this or isn't there one??
the reason I am even thinking about doing this is my alternator went bad last year so I replaced it everything was fine, then this year my voltage regulator went out and now I am wondering if I should "do" something about this or maybe just leave it alone?? I rarely drive my car at night so I know I could change it all to relays and stuff but at this point I can't see needing to do that.

 

[67Dart273]

No, I'm saying it's more complicated (sometimes) than jumpering the alternator to the starter relay. The "most of the" problems in wiring in these cars amounts to poor connections in harness connectors, and poor contacts in switches. And a little bit of "not fused very well