can I attach a extra 10 gauge wire with a 12 gauge Fusible link to the alternator and run it to the positive starter motor bolt. I figures this will take most the electrical load off the bulkhead wire going to the amp gauge. Will this work?
rewiring charging system
- Thread starter Wire
- Start date
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67Dart273
Well-Known Member
Please don't "simply" do that. Read this article, carefully. Please
http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml
In other words inspect and repair the bulkhead connector, "at the very least." I would jumper the wire to the starter relay and not the starter itself
While you are at it, at least check, and upgrade the engine -to- body grounding.
http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml
In other words inspect and repair the bulkhead connector, "at the very least." I would jumper the wire to the starter relay and not the starter itself
While you are at it, at least check, and upgrade the engine -to- body grounding.
What's the reason for running the alternator charging wire to the starter relay? I would run it to the battery or starter power stud.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
The starter relay IS the battery, and "if not" should be "made to be."
Running too much stuff to the starter stud...........which moves.......with the engine.......can cause flexing which will loosen the stud. Even with factory wiring, occasionally this was a problem, and is, in part, why the factory cables were molded together at the terminals
Running to the battery directly is OK if you can figure out a way to properly terminate it. I tend to keep "other connections" off the battery because of corrosion problems. Far easier to keep an simple battery clamp in shape
Ignore the screwdriver. Trying to illustrate the factory molded cables
Running too much stuff to the starter stud...........which moves.......with the engine.......can cause flexing which will loosen the stud. Even with factory wiring, occasionally this was a problem, and is, in part, why the factory cables were molded together at the terminals
Running to the battery directly is OK if you can figure out a way to properly terminate it. I tend to keep "other connections" off the battery because of corrosion problems. Far easier to keep an simple battery clamp in shape
Ignore the screwdriver. Trying to illustrate the factory molded cables
C'mon, you are kidding me. You are telling the OP to run his 10ga charging wire into a 12ga circuit back to the battery. You know better than that. It needs to go direct to the battery or starter stud no matter what it takes to do it.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
I said no such thing. The starter relay should have same gauge cable as starter. Some years, the cable was routed to the starter relay and THEN to the starter
Rapid Robert
Well-Known Member
Yes but as Del said I would run it to the batt stud on the starter relay. and as a general rule you want to protect a wire/cable with a FL 2 sizes smaller than the wire and AWG goes in even numbers so a 12 ga FL on a 10 ga wire would be only (1) size drop. You might even go with an 8 ga jumper (& the 12ga FL). this bypass works but does render the ammeter somewhat inaccurate. I would suggest Nacho's bulkhead parallel bypass which is drilling out the 2 main in/out passages in the bulkhead & bypassing the brass terminals with (2) wires traight thru. #1 #1 #1 Clean all connections/terminals in the overall system including the ground path(s). Good luck! EDIT I'd actually go with an 8ga bypass wire then use the 12 ga FL
GMachineDartGT
Senior Member
Yes you can if you mean the starter relay stud. It will do exactly that. Your ammeter will still work this way buy will be less sensitive due to less current. Your alternator only puts out what's needed anyway.
I'm sorry, but I am very confused by this post. It may be a communication problem. The starter relay is the small silver box on the firewall and the starter solenoid is the unit mounted down on the starter. Everyone is saying run the alternator charging wire to the starter relay, which is on the firewall. Maybe I'm wrong but I've never seen that done before.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
My point above, is that if you get "a bunch of stuff" hooked to the starter solenoid ON THE starter, "it moves." Shakes and vibrates. More and more connections there promotes the thing coming loose.
The starter relay is a junction point "the big stud" and nut connection. Cars vary over the years. Some years, the main battery cable went from the battery TO the starter relay, and then a second cable went from there to the big starter solenoid stud.
If you use the relay for the alternator you SHOULD have a large jumper from the relay to the battery.
You should also have a large fuse / fuse link or breaker in the alternator conductor.
Yet another way is to buy an aftermarket remote insulated terminal.............The marine industry uses them. Mount this somewhere and use it for a junction for a battery cable.
Lots and lots of ways to do this. Someone mentioned running direct to battery. You can do that, but as top post batteries eventually tend to corrode "up there" this might create complications.
Okay, I see what you are talking about. The cars I maintain only have 12 ga. wires on the starter relay. If I have to run a jumper wire from the battery to the starter relay, I'll just run it from the battery to the alternator and eliminate the relay connection.
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