Rocker arms for 408 build

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mbaird said:
I have no idea.... There don't seem to be many really good options for cheap prices... some guys talk about using Ford or Chevy rockers but I read negatives about that. I really need to do more research.

first I need to finish up the Dart though....
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Im running older versions of the Comp Cams brand (red anodized) 1.6 roller rockers, studs, guide plates and oil-thru pushrods. All top quality parts, not sure about the negative opinions, maybe it’s just Chevy engineered parts on a Mopar, and the question asked on a Mopar site= Negatives....but elsewhere likely different. I’d forget the notion of always shopping for cheap prices, cheap is cheap, think of it as another “you get what you pay for” scenario. You got three options on Magnum style: oem, Mopar Performance, or a setup by any number of brands such as what I run. There’s well known quality: Crane, Lunati, Scorpion, Comp, Howard's. That’s it. Odd name no name pro-form or don’t even......
 
What I meant by cheap was under 500$
But again ... I have not researched the subject all that much.
 
mbaird said:
What I meant by cheap was under 500$
But again ... I have not researched the subject all that much.
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You should easily be able to source rockers, studs, guide plates for that, maybe even pushrods especially using a discount code, if the timing is right:thumbsup:
 
PRW stainless 1.6's. That's what Brian at IMM recommended to me when I bought a set of his RHS heads. They're a great 'budget' rocker arm once you inspect the hell out of them and spend the time set their side clearances.
 
67 gt said:
When I had my 318 LA teen with the EQ Mags I was running the Cranes 1.6 rollers and they’re reasonably priced and I was running singles with dampeners within your cam specs . I was using the Jarmas stud girdle just for insurance.
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Did you have any valve contact trouble?
IIRC those are not adjustable, correct?
 
All Crane rockers are adjustable because they do not make stamped steel replacements
 
rumblefish360 said:
All Crane rockers are adjustable because they do not make stamped steel replacements
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Thanks. I was forgetting they are stud mounted using polylocks. I've read they can be a problem getting the right thread exposure as well.
 
12many said:
Im running older versions of the Comp Cams brand (red anodized) 1.6 roller rockers, studs, guide plates and oil-thru pushrods. All top quality parts, not sure about the negative opinions, maybe it’s just Chevy engineered parts on a Mopar, and the question asked on a Mopar site= Negatives....but elsewhere likely different. I’d forget the notion of always shopping for cheap prices, cheap is cheap, think of it as another “you get what you pay for” scenario. You got three options on Magnum style: oem, Mopar Performance, or a setup by any number of brands such as what I run. There’s well known quality: Crane, Lunati, Scorpion, Comp, Howard's. That’s it. Odd name no name pro-form or don’t even......
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Nothing I've read was about using Chevy parts. It's about poor contact patterns.
Of course the bad experiences get written up. Maybe they are fine most of the time?
 
If Chevy/Ford rockers work for the magnum application why arent they available packaged up with the proper components by anyone ? Seems they would sell like hot cakes !
 
The Chevy rockers are available as you wished for.

Now where to find them or how it gets done, IDK, but I’d like to know the details.
 
If I could get a full setup for 250$ that works well I would go for that. Adjustable ones... but if I have to jack around and piece meal components for 350 I would just buy HS adjustables for 500$.
 
mbaird said:
If Chevy/Ford rockers work for the magnum application why arent they available packaged up with the proper components by anyone ? Seems they would sell like hot cakes !
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I’m pretty sure you have to piece it together still as I did a few years ago. Readily available Comp Cams has the exact studs and correct guideplates that fit the Magnum or EQ heads. You order custom length pushrods compatible with guideplate use. Crane looks too also offer specific pieces but the guideplate setup looks more complicated so as to be able to use regular pushrods vs. using “guideplate compatible pushrods” and simple guide plates such as from Comp. Could probably use Isky adjustable guideplates, but Comp will likely be at a much better price than any others for same quality. That’s why I went with all Comp, best value and readily available. Here’s some Crane listings:

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I'm kinda puzzled here. No polylocks, how do they adjust?
Price includes rocker arms.

comp cams rocker kit.png
 
Here's the PRW set. Summit sells a stud / guideplate set separate.
Since Brian at IMM uses them I imagine things line up ok. Maybe :)
Lookin at them I think stock valve covers may fit.
Then there's the question of stud girdles.
A local machinist I spoke to today insists upgraded rockers and girdles are required. No big surprise.

prw rockers.png
 
Aluminum.
I'm going to check the price to have the studs drilled and tapped to 3/8.

harland rockers.png
 
Oldmanmopar said:
You can raise the rockers or move them with shims. But you still have to set the preload or lash.
YES raise first then order pushrods

"Rockers are what usually come apart and then the pieces fall down into the motor. I have seen many of rocker pieces ruin good motors. Spend the money now or spend it later."
OLD are you referring to needles?
IMHO for most builds the stock Magnum and AMC rockers will work just fine
if you do get roller tip rockers remember the arm lengths are all over the place
so set your geometry (raise the fulcrum height- its going to be about the radius of the roller tip, get the right length 7/16 studs then see if your witness stripe from the roller is in the center of the valve tip
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Harland pedestal. I presume 5/16, no stud conversion.
Does a 5/16 to 3/8 stud conversion add stiffness?

harland pedestal jegs.png
 
Been covered in the past:Chevy Roller Rockers the stock 5/16” stud mounting is IMO fine as is for most street pressures and rpms. I’d research as much as possible on any reports on stud breakage with the 5/16”....likely not going to find any but you never know. And then if you did, what spring pressure, rpm, the geometry correct? You could go to 3/8” but I’d be checking how much cast pedestal material will remain on each pedestal before enlarging. 7/16“ would be too big for the pedestal.
 
Rocker arm nirvana.
Comes with clear valve covers.

hughes shaft.png
 
12many said:
Been covered in the past:Chevy Roller Rockers the stock 5/16” stud mounting is IMO fine as is for most street pressures and rpms. I’d research as much as possible on any reports on stud breakage with the 5/16”....likely not going to find any but you never know. And then if you did, what spring pressure, rpm, the geometry correct? You could go to 3/8” but I’d be checking how much cast pedestal material will remain on each pedestal before enlarging. 7/16 would be too big for the pedestal.
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Thanks for bringing me back to earth... :)
 
I think the 5/16 is fine for our builds.
Solid roller , high rpms and big spring pressures would be a different story.
 
Idaho said:
Did you have any valve contact trouble?
IIRC those are not adjustable, correct?
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Had good sweep across the face tip and they were adjustable as I was running a solid flat tappet.La bottom end comp cams 803 lifters with the oil hole . Ball to ball Oil through push rods. Purchased rockers, guide plates and studs as a kit from Summit.
 
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