Rocker Assembly

-
MOPARJ

MOPARJ

What can I upgrade now?
Joined
Nov 3, 2006
Messages
861
Reaction score
7
Location
Thousand Oaks, Ca
Call me stupid, but of all of the engine work that i've done in my young life, i've never changed out a rocker assembly and shafts on a small block mopar before.

Im changing them out on my 73 318(90,000 miles) in my Duster this weekend, due to one or two noisy worn out ones on the right bank, which clicked a littoe more than it already did when hot after i changed out the cam to a hotter one.

I just received my new Mopar Performance stamped steel rockers and Mancini Racing's rocker shafts that they sell. I got the package of rockers and the shafts for $139. I also purchased pushrods ofcourse as well. These are supposidly direct bolt ons to the stock ones and should take a few hours tops from what they tell me.

Is there any special procedure that any of you recommend for me? Any input about my setup and what i'm going to use? When restarting after installation, should i disconnect the coil and crank the motor to get oil flowing, or just start the motor normally?

Just a side note, if there is any particular torque specs that i need, that would be awesome as well.

Thanks.

-Justin
 
I would clean all of the parts with some brake cleaner first. Especailly the rocker shafts. I noticed some chips of metal left after drilling one of the bolt holes.

Some good assembly lube between the rocker tip and the valve tip and between the push rod and the pushrod cup. I also lubed up the rocker shaft. When tightening down the rocker shaft, tighten from the center out.

Also, were the notches on the rocker arm shafts on the opposite side like the ones I got from Mancini?
 
i haven't looked yet..my girlfriend informed me that they arrived at home today. I mentioned this to the tech guy at Mancini and he said that they should be exactly the same as standard 318-340-360 rocker shafts. He said there should be no major differences and should bolt right up. What assembly lube? Did you use a certain torque spec?
 
Yeah, there was a torque spec, but I'll have to look that up when I get home. As far as being exactly the same, I'd have to disagree. But they did bolt right up, just be sure that the holes are down into the rocker arms and the notches are in the correct position as far as in relation the the right-hand and left-hand head.
 
Install the drivers side shaft with the oil holes down & the notch on the end of the shaft should be facing the frt of the engine. Install the passenger side shaft with the oil holes down & the notch facing the firewall.
 
mikedevore said:
Install the drivers side shaft with the oil holes down & the notch on the end of the shaft should be facing the frt of the engine. Install the passenger side shaft with the oil holes down & the notch facing the firewall.
Click to expand...
and to add:
torque the bolts to 17ftlbs - or snug with a 3/8" drive ratchet. make sure the lefts and rights are assembled so the rocker tip is over the valve tip.
pour a little oil over the rocker shafts, cover up and turn the key.
 
Not to hi-jack the thread but this caught my interest. I understand torqueing the shaft bolts to 17 ft-lbs but, How do you gauge this correctly if your installing the non-adjustable rockers? The spring pressure on the rockers has to throw this off a bunch. I tried to figure out how to install the shafts and rockers without the pushrods first and torqueing everything before putting in the pushrods but, I keep coming up with a zero? Unless your using adjustable rockers I can't figure out how this would be done. Can someone help me here for future builds?
 
With hyd. cams you don't have as much seat pressure with no oil pressure, (engine off). Just run down the bolts and torque in sequential order and you are good to go. Good luck, Terry.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top