Rocker Shafts- Washers?

-
SpeedThrills

SpeedThrills

FABO Gold Member
FABO Gold Member
Joined
Jun 3, 2008
Messages
2,722
Reaction score
1,640
Location
Very South Jersey
Boy, I am sure full of questions these days as I assemble my 360.

Some may know from my other threads that I disassembled my new-to-me 360 to see what is in it. Or, maybe what ISN'T in it!

Do I remember seeing thin, hardened washers between the rockers and the hold down bolt and washer/spacer? It's been a while. Maybe the stock rockers are hard enough to not need them. The 1st picture shows how my shafts are assembled. There is a gap between the rockers and spacers. The 2nd shot shows the wear that is on all of the rockers, to some extent. The picture shows one of the worst.

This engine had a lot of wear on the connecting rod bearings, considering that it was in very good condition otherwise. Maybe this is why.

I hope there is a washer available. I don't want to reassemble it this way.

IMG_2608.JPG
IMG_2609.JPG
 
I should've searched b4 I typed that post. Are these what is needed? It says they're for rocker tip alignment, but I need to stop the galling. Also, there's 10 in a set. I need 16. I guess you use as many as you need to get alignment. Mopar Performance Rocker Arm Spacer Set
 
Last edited:
That's a disaster waiting to happen. Get rid of the stock shaft retainers and get the block style, the block style provides a better surface for the NEEDED washers between the arms. I think the clearance between the arms is .015
 
I think Hughes Engines has the biggest selection of different width spacer washers for side to side alignment.
 
Lefty71 said:
I think Hughes Engines has the biggest selection of different width spacer washers for side to side alignment.
Click to expand...
Sometimes the blocks need a little shave to achieve proper alignment and clearance.
 
looks nice Pittsburgh go Steelers great game last weekend

do you have B3 installed?
 
Wyrmrider said:
looks nice Pittsburgh go Steelers great game last weekend

do you have B3 installed?
Click to expand...


Yes I did on that combo. That block was on it’s 3rd rebuild and the bores were a wreck. It still went 9.70’s with a 650 roller cam and my best flowing set of Edelbrock heads (318 cfm). It needed the B3 kit to get it all workable. A little extra time on the engine stand sure pays dividends. Gooo Steelers
 
I bought my rockers , shafts and spacers all from Harland Sharp. Put them on about 15 years ago and when I upgraded the engine I put them back on with new heads and couldn't see any wear or signs of damage. I would buy them again and their tech people are very patient
100_1265.JPG
 
I just put the Angelucci blocks on. As mentioned, they need a shave. All of the rockers pivot, but I'd call it a tight slide fit. The alignment on all but 3 and 6 is good. I'll improve their alignment when I have them shaved.

Two rockers and the spacer in between them measure 3.341". How much clearance do I need? I have to consider that the blocks aren't doweled, and they'll move a little.

I guess my concern is how much the heat when it's running will decrease the clearance.
 
I just emailed Angelucci asking them.

I'm guessing maybe .060" total from hold down to hold down. That would be .015" between the hold down, rocker, spacer (each side of the spacer), the other rocker, and then the other hold down.
 
do not over-torque your rocker shaft holdowns (MANY SOURCES ARE WRONG), shafts the right way, correct bolts for oil feed- you know the drill
I do not think the al expansion is meaningful
 
Wyrmrider said:
do not over-torque your rocker shaft holdowns (MANY SOURCES ARE WRONG), shafts the right way, correct bolts for oil feed- you know the drill
I do not think the al expansion is meaningful
Click to expand...
Oil holes are in the right place. Angelucci supplied new bolts. I'll have to check them. Good point about oil feed.
 
The bolts are all the same. The hole up through the shaft is sized to allow the oil to feed up around the bolt shank. I did find that one set aftermarket shafts had smaller holes at all points including the oil feed point (2nd stand from the left when looking at either head).

Big mounting holes in the shafts allow the shafts to shift each time you install, making consistent setup of the shims difficult. So it may behoove you to make some marks on each shaft and 1 or more stands on each side to align the shafts in a consistent position each time, so the shims and clearances line up the same each time.
 
nm9stheham said:
The bolts are all the same. The hole up through the shaft is sized to allow the oil to feed up around the bolt shank. I did find that one set aftermarket shafts had smaller holes at all points including the oil feed point (2nd stand from the left when looking at either head).

Big mounting holes in the shafts allow the shafts to shift each time you install, making consistent setup of the shims difficult. So it may behoove you to make some marks on each shaft and 1 or more stands on each side to align the shafts in a consistent position each time, so the shims and clearances line up the same each time.
Click to expand...
Ah, I was gonna say, all my original bolts are the same. All of the Angelucci bolts are the same, too. I had a 383 and a 340 yeeeeears ago, and I don't remember those bolts being different. Cool.
They are factory shafts, but I will check them for larger oiling holes.

I'll consider the shaft movement and mark accordingly. I'm going to stencil all of the stands today to be sure they are installed in the right location after they are milled. There's not much coming off, maybe they'll grind them. Though, I've heard that aluminum clogs up grinding wheels and they tend to blow up. In my tool and die days, I never worked with aluminum.

Thanks! (Nothing like a good behoovement.) :)
 
I heard back from Angelucci today.

He makes them sized for standard rockers. He says the Crane's are a bit bigger, so he agrees they need to be sized. He runs Harland Sharp rockers and uses about .005 on each side of each rocker and spacer. He doesn't use Crane's, so he doesn't know what they're made of, which of course is aluminum. So yes, the .015 to .020 sounds good, if the Harland's are aluminum.

I actually already started doing them myself. I was thinking, it's only about .015, or .0075 off of each hold down. It's also not a critical dimension. So, I'm doing them with a belt sander, rotating them 90*, and mic'ing the 4 corners as I sand them, to keep them square. I have been able to keep them within .002 to .003 of square. (I used to work in a tool and die shop and sometimes things had to get done on the production line.)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top