[WANTED] Roller cam tools

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Demonracer

Demonracer

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I'm looking for P5249508 drill & reamer package to modify a SBM for a roller cam. It is a discontinued part number but I'm hoping someone has one they wish to sell. One of our great members offered to loan his to me. I'd like one for myself because I'm sure I'll be modifying another block in the future.
 
The kit is to drill & ream an LA340 to close off the oiling to the lifters to run a Comp solid lifter roller cam.
 
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If you read the performance mods required for a roller cam you will see what I'm referring to.
 
This is a question for my own knowledge. Can't you just run the full body Comp roller lifters without this mod? That is what I'm running in my 416?
 
Did a roller cam on this. I kinda know what I'm doing. 408 Six Pack.

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Early blocks have issues with roller lifters.
Sometimes, following the book is a good idea.
Your block may vary.
Your lifters may vary.
Your method may vary.
Your success may vary.
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Comp now makes a new lifter that works in a LA block without the mods. Depending on lift.

Drilling the lifter bores and bushing them work with a smaller hole for oil.

The old way was put a copper tube through the oil galley and peen it open in the bores. This was better for 340-3 and up blocks. Drilling the bores on a high porosity block gets risky. If you ever have the right rear bore break out you will know what I am talking about.

340-1 and 340-2 blocks are usually OK most guys look for them for 358 sprint cars. X block have a higher nickle content so bushing them is OK. You'll never break a lifter bore on a 59 degree R3 or Resto block the bosses for the bores are huge.

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@Oldmanmopar

If you could, Please clarify the differences on the 340-1, 340-2, 340-3 blocks. As well as high porisity risk blocks.

Thanks.
 
rumblefish360 said:
@Oldmanmopar

If you could, Please clarify the differences on the 340-1, 340-2, 340-3 blocks. As well as high porisity risk blocks.

Thanks.
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What I have found over the years is motors with a lower core number such as 340-1 and 340 -2 have a real clean casting.

Having worked at a foundry I believe the first pour from a ladle has less slag because it is easy to hold back while tipping the ladle. Also the first molds to be poured are scrutinized more by QC.

If you go to old school engine builders they always want 340-1's for their race cars

If you look closely at this X block which is a 318-11 "340 race block" the right rear lifter bore had to be filled with weld it was totally missing a chunk from the forge. Also the cylinders were out of concentric and could only be bored 4.080 safely. I had X blocks bored 4.125 and more some 4.200 with out a problem. Not this high core number.

Usually High core numbers when they let go they take out the whole cylinder. I had them come in with just the head studs hanging from the head. The rod did not break the cylinder just came apart at high rpms coming off the turn.

If you are going to make serious HP I would avoid using a high core number.

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My resto block is the best small block I ever bought. Barton wanted 5K I gave him a 68 340 cuda roller. And I am glad I did they were not available at that time. They were on back order. He had two I should have bought both. 59 degree R-3's are like hens teeth. They are just hard to find now.

An X block is a T/A block with thicker bores and High nickle content. also a good choice just watch out for core number. They are all 318 castings. This was so you could make a 355 with a stroker crank and a small bore light piston. Torque off the turn. Less reciprocating weight.

But as stated they could be bored 4.200 . So a small piston make the block very strong with less flex.
 
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