Roller lifter conversation

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hwy2

hwy2

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Besides the linked roller lifters is anything else necessary to change to roller lifters? I saw someone putting a copper tube in the block drilling a 5/8 hole. block then putting in copper tube. is that a necessary step?
 
Well, you’ll need the cam also. But more information from you is needed. Hydraulic or solid?
 
I had to change blocks I have cam lifters. I went from a 89 block to a 71 block.
 
oldkimmer said:
@pittsburghracer John can answer all your questions. Be patient as he is away racing and only checks in once in awhile when he is away. Kim
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This is a very very complicated procedure of drilling, honing, fitting, peening, and redrilling oil flow holes. He’s best off finding an old Direct Connection book so he can truly understand the procedure.
 
I got one and read the process. It seems as though its trying to slow flow and block and block off some oil passages. Is this necessary or will she run with out doing this. I have only assembled the bottom end no torquing. Got this racing manual and read that but this is a racing manual. I will do this if it is absolutely necessary. I have a hv oil pump. It says oil to lifters should be plugged. Probably gonna happen anyway

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If you look at a stock block you will see 16 huge holes in the middle of each lifter bore. What happens is the band of the roller goes up past that hole letting oil escape instead of going to your bearings. To compound this point the lifter bores are worn from being 30 plus years old. The best way to address these is to bronze bush each lifter bore. It averages in cost 600.00 but probably more now. I used copper house water line (1/2 inch inside 5/8 outside) to do mine. I tried stainless tubing last time on my president engine but would not recommend that. You can block the other side by tapping the hole and blocking the passage with a set screw. Please please please understand this whole procedure because if you miss drilling one hole your bearings will not get oil. I have two old books with this whole procedure and get them out everytime I do this job.
 
What PBR said, read the instructions until you can recite them. One minor screw up and the block is an expensive door stop.
 
Solid or hydraulic roller? (I haven't seen that answered.)
I rum crower solid body solid lifters with no oil band. I don't have to tube the block. .750 lift super stock cam in a max wedge block.
 
I don't know how in hell any of you even know how to answer. Is this a SB or B/RB or is it even a Mopar?
 
Even with a solid roller, if you have pressurized roller feed. You have a band or a port.
 
So on a small block 318/392 la motor. 71’ casting date. I am Converting to hydraulic roller lifters and cam which I have. Morel linked lifters. Is this procedure is necessary even for non racing applications.
 
The problem is the chamfer on the lifter bore is wildly all over the place. Some deep, some not. It could uncover the band on the base circle also. The worn bores are what they are. A bunch of oil pressure is lost there. You can measure how worn they are then decide if it is acceptable. You would have the issue roller or not, so if the block had good pressure before…, but measure is the only way to be sure. Ignoring wear, you can install the cam and each lifter and see if the oil band gets uncovered. Both sides. Base circle and max lift. It can be hard to see. You NEED to look at every lifter. The chamfers are NOT uniform.
 
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