Who has some experience with a toilet setup on methanol? ET gains over a carb? I've heard some guys are a few tenths quicker and deadly consistent. I think it'll be worth an extra months play money to pay the difference between an APD carb and the injection. My plan is having KillerRons set me up a system, mount a 4 gallon vertical fuel cell where my battery used to be, and use my old Sniper nitrous plate for a gas primer utilizing my factory gas tank and current electric pump. My only drawback of injected over a carb is once it's on then it being a streetable car is not in the cards. Scott at KRs said he could set me up a street tune-up though for cruising around town now and then. Any thoughts?
Ron's Flying toilet
- Thread starter gumper
- Start date
-
I knew that'd show up...
Riff Raff
Well-Known Member
Not sure about the flying toilet set up but plenty of guys are running mechanical fuel injection on the street. I believe you can call Hillborn Injection up and they can walk you through the process. Don't see why Ron's couldn't.
He said it would work on gas, but it's a lot more sensitive to atmospheric changes than a carb. On the street I don't care much.
diymirage
HP@idle > hondaHP@redline
if i could thank my own post, i would
that show always cracked me up (hard to find good clean humor) and i had almost forgotten about it
Riff Raff
Well-Known Member
That would be damn cool to see that street driven!
I went from a 8896 1050 Dominator on my 67 Super Gas Barracuda to a Ron's flying toilet. It did pick up 3/10 in the 1/8 from 6.04 to 5.74. Best thing is never having to worry about overheating which comes into play as your going rounds. I literally did away with the radiator and water pump. I only ran a small amount of water in the block. The car would be 170 degrees in the shut down area. It is harder to start and you may want to come up with a method to crank it up on gas. This is especially true as the air temperature drops. But it is a mechanical injection system and takes some getting use to in controlling the shut off valve to get your car to idle and drive at low speeds. You will also need to kick the exhaust out from under your car. Other wise you will not be able to breath in the car. It is some amazing stuff. Plugs don't foul, the smaller the bypass pill you run (meaning the richer it runs) the faster your car will go.
This is one of the few picture I have of my car.
That's what I'm going to try to use the nitrous plate for. Run just gas off my electric pump at low pressure to start and warm the car up. How often did you change the oil? The KR site says milky oil is the sign of the tune up way too rich. I'm used to changing the oil once a season, but a lot of guys do it after every weekend. Seems like that's crazy. Should be able to run warm it up to 200* on the gas to keep the moisture under control, then run around the pits on the gas primer. In theory.
famous bob
mopar misfit
I have never messed w/ it, but have friend that used it on a 355" vega, low 9`s bumping the 8`s.
I have seen there is a bunch to learn when it comes to starting one (and after shut down) can anyone explain this procedure ? WD 40 
Yes you will change oil more often, depends how many passes you make in a day. As far as being to rich? I don't know,I never hit that mark. The Barracuda ran faster the richer I made it.
When the outside temp was below 50. I just didn't race. But yes, if your not starting it on gas when you crank it up cold, then you would spin the motor over about 5 seconds before you flip the ignition on. If it doesn't fire repeat.I have seen there is a bunch to learn when it comes to starting one (and after shut down) can anyone explain this procedure ? WD 40
It for sure is a chore to handle. You have a lean out/shut off valve inside the car that you are constantly adjusting. lean it out to idle and drive to staging, water box open it open at time you start burn out, after lean it out, light the tree, open it up when your on the trans brake, after the run back on it to lean it out to drive back to the pits. It is a mechanical fuel injection, it doesn't know fuel monitoring, that is you that does that. It pumps the same fuel idle or 7000 RPM, thou engine RPM increases volume.
I went from a gas carb to injection. Thou I have ran alcohol carbs in the past. Right when I went on the trans brake and 2 step I would open the hand valve. Not to much hassle when your at WOT.
Methanol is a lot cheaper than race gas, but you'll use twice as much.
After shut down we shut the nos bottle off and burg the pressure, shut ignition off and turn the engine over for about 7 sec as we spray wd40 down the toilet.
Why did you do that if I may ask?
I really don't know SG, The tec that put the heads and Toilet on said to do this, each time after shut down
. I will asked , but the little s 10 was a 6:50 to 6:70 truck and after the change he is bumping near 6:00 sec runs now. Best run has been 6:11.
It's all new to me, but when this thread popped up I had to post what I have learned , Gleen (My friend just an 1/8 mile up the road) was smashed between a garbage truck and a wall at work 12 years ago, (walking is not his best feature anymore) and enjoys racing his truck, His dad and I help him load and prep at the line.
Mine was race only, no alt. But I would guess any thing is possible.
I wonder was that to put a little lube on valves and cylinder walls to kind things from rusting? I ran Klotz in the drum of Methanol for top end lube.
Looks like I've hit a snag. Scott at killer rons says they do not recommend run the injection on my air gap intake manifold. Not sure why the system cares. May have something to do with the divide plenum, but I can easily cut that out. Bums me out because I had it all ported nice with the heads, and it worked way better than the Super Victor. Add another few hundred over my already maxed budget. May go back with the carb idea, but we'll see.
-
