Rotella diesel oil in a 440 ???

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Duster Bud

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Hey Guys,
I was told buy the guy who sold me my car (72 Duster 440) that I should run Rotella oil in it because it has the right stuff for cam bearings....this was told to him by Crane Cams.
The cam makes a groweling sound that I have not herd for any engine before.

Here is the low down on the engine...form the builder...Please let me know what you think...I'm not a gear head and don't know this stuff...BUT I want to learn.
The 440 engine is dated 1-5-71. I had a set of 452 heads modified by a local Mopar racer; they were milled .010, had 2.14x1.81 valves installed with dual springs with dampers, and bowl ported. The block was bored .030, and the crank was cut .010/.010. Rods are 535 units, pistons are Keith Black 236 units with Speed Pro rings. All gaskets were Fel-Pro. Cam is a Crane unit with .467/.494 lift and the lifters are crane anti-pump ups. Pushrods are Crane 3/8" with Crane adjustable ductile iron rockers. The intake is a Weiand dual plane unit and the carb was a new in the box 1982 unit 3310 Holley, so it is all metal, no plastic parts. Exhaust is factory HP manifolds with 2.5" pipe all new from the manifolds to the tailpipes and Flowmaster mufflers. Ignition is factory electronic stuff, all remanufactured or replaced. ARP rod bolts were used. High Volume oil pump was used and the oil pump shaft bushing was replaced.

Well what do I need to know, change, fix or replace?
Anyone know what I should time it at. I retarded it a bit because my new 800 cca battery did not like starting it after it warmed up.

Thanks for you kind help guys ! Bud :salute:
 
It's not the cam bearings that are at issue with oil, it's the lobes. Modern automotive motor oil has had a lot of the zinc additives removed for polution reasons. This is not an issue with modern engines becuase virtually all have roller lifter cams. The zinc that has been removed was there to prevent scuffing as cam lobes slide over flat tappet cams.

The use of the oil is more of an issue with break in than as an ongoing issue but there is no down side to using it. Mobil also sells a similar oil that will do the trick.
 
You can run the Rotella for the extra zinc additive until 2007....then all the diesel oils will have the reduced zinc like the gas oils.....so you'll be in the same predicamant.....my suggestion is to use a racing oil that doesn't have to follow the EPA passanger car regulations such as Royal Purple. I personally run Brad Penn oil in my motor.
 
What do you mean by "noise" and "growl"? The lifters he chose are anti pump ups..Thne they may be noisey when the rockers are adjusted properly. They should make a very soft ticking sound, that might be slightly louder during part throttle cruise or light throttle. If you have no background, you may want to have a local friend go over setting the valve lash with you. IMO, it probably is in need of adjustment. For anti pump ups, I'd be looking for apprx 1/4-1/3 turn past "zero lash" with them hot. The missing zinc "package" is now also available from Comp Cams in a small bottle. To be honest, it should be used every oil change, but then you can run any oil you want.
 
Another option to racing oils is a high preasure additive such as the one Hughes Engines sells. Just be sure to find a good quality product to protect your investment.
 
Thanks guys,
The noise would be the cam lobes not the bearings...my fault. It is not a lifter noise...just a low growl like the lobes and not connecting rods.
I am not saying there is anything wrong...just trying to make sure by running it by you pros.
Does the engine package sound correct or a good build option package?
Thanks again! Bud
 
The guy that built my motor said to use either EOS or STP with every oil change.
 
Im with Adam on this,I used to run a pontiac and alot of guys were having major issues losing lobes regardless of cam/lifter brands.After alot of research on my part (with alot of advice from others) the cheapest most cost effective way I found to make them live was to use plain old stp oil treatment.I used it during breakin and every oil change after with no issues.I couldnt beat the price/availability and I never have lost a cam-knock on wood.
 
Duster Bud said:
Thanks guys,
The noise would be the cam lobes not the bearings...my fault. It is not a lifter noise...just a low growl like the lobes and not connecting rods.
I am not saying there is anything wrong...just trying to make sure by running it by you pros.
Does the engine package sound correct or a good build option package?
Thanks again! Bud
Click to expand...


Where are you standing when you're hearing this growling noise and can you hear it when you're sitting inside the car.

Terry
 
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