Round #2 !!!!!!!!!!

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FASTBACK340

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Picked up my engine last night. Looks real good! As soon as the cam & gasket set gets here I can start bolting this lump together. I'm hoping that this will be a straight-forward assembly without any of the drama that went on last summer. [ For you new guys the board was quite entertained last year with my non-stop battle with rebuild #1, that resulted in a 20 mile drive before my camshaft disintergrated....but thats another story] Here's the goody list:

MP block line-bored w/ ARP studs & cylinders honed w/ bore plate
Crank cut .010 on mains & rods
Rods resized after ARP bolts installed & balanced
New Melling oil pump thats been PROPERLY machined for use w/ studs
Edelbrock RPM 63cc chamber aluminum heads
Crane 1.5 roller rockers
Comp Cams XE274H w/ lifters
Clevite 77 bearings
Speed Pro rings
KB pistons
6Bbl induction
Complete MSD ignition ( 6AL, blaster coil, pro-billet dist. & wires)
Hooker super comp. w/ 2.5" exhaust & 2 chamber Flowmasters

The engine calculates out to 10.1;1 compression.Anyone want to take an educated guess at horsepower? We're also taking bets on how long this one hangs together.....:bom:
 
I'm gonna take a guess at 400hp.

John I sincerely wish you the best of luck with rebuild #2.
May you be sm:toothy10:king the hides off that ***** by Sept. :burnout:
05 of course!! :wav:
 
i am not guesing on the power but 400hp sounds posible, hope that engine will live forever!
 
my guess is 380. wringing 400 out of a 360 would be magic. probably an 11 sec car though. good luck on the install.
 
Sounds like a good combo, John. You want me to run it through Desktop Dyno and see what it has to say? Post this info if you want me to:

Block? (340, 360)
Bore & Stroke
Heads? Flow numbers?
Valve size?
Intake (single plane, dual plane)?
Carb size?
Exhaust type (headers, manifolds) & pipe size?

Don't break this one! :toothy3:
 
Good luck,I know all about bad luck.Just take a nice burnout pic when you get her ironed out
 
400 horsepower is easy from a 360. Although I think your cam is a little small and the head flow numbers are unknown I'd bet you get 425 to 450 out of it.
 
400 or better? Geeeez.... You guys got me more aroused than the entire cast in a **** movie. I was hoping for 375-380, tops. I know the cam is on the smaller end of my choices, but I figure I can go UP later.


Thanks for the encouragement gang! But truthfully, I just wanna to see this shitbox run
elaugh.gif


And once THAT happens, I promise you all a John Force style smokey burn-out picture !

After it's broken in, of course.....
 
FASTBACK340 said:
400 or better? Geeeez.... You guys got me more aroused than the entire cast in a **** movie. I was hoping for 375-380, tops. I know the cam is on the smaller end of my choices, but I figure I can go UP later.


Thanks for the encouragement gang! But truthfully, I just wanna to see this shitbox run
elaugh.gif


And once THAT happens, I promise you all a John Force style smokey burn-out picture !

After it's broken in, of course.....
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Then we can discuss you rear rebuild!!!:evil4:
 
onehellofadart said:
Then we can discuss you rear rebuild!!!:evil4:
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Yeah, I thought of that too....... Everything else is new so the rear could very well be the next chapter of my stomach ulcer
sickface.gif
 
I'll say 415 properly tuned..With the 6bbl, that last part gets tricky...
 
moper said:
I'll say 415 properly tuned..With the 6bbl, that last part gets tricky...
Click to expand...

I've been told it's easier to play guitar with mittens on than tune a 6 Bbl. but that's the risk I'll take :D

Besides, has anyone seen the price of complete 6Bbl set-up's on e-Bay? I could buy a Currie 9" w/ disc's.

Hey.....:-k
 
400+ hp will happen. I have had good luck with Comp's XE cams. Maybe someday down the road step up to one a little more aggresive. They are very responsive. You should be very happy with this combo.
 
moparracer said:
You should be very happy with this combo.
Click to expand...

I'd LOVE to be happy about ANYTHING relating to this project !


Truthfully, I know it's gonna be sweet. A few more mistakes reared their ugly little heads from the first build-up (which I absoluetly REFUSE to discuss....) that would have caused trouble down the road anyway. I'm just lucky I yanked it apart when I did after so few miles.

Thanks for tolerating my ranting & bitchin about my car. I hate my car soooo much at times, but I'd miss it if it were gone....:?
 
FASTBACK340 said:
A few more mistakes reared their ugly little heads from the first build-up (which I absoluetly REFUSE to discuss....) that would have caused trouble down the road anyway.
Click to expand...

Awww, come on and fess up. You might save someone else ... like me... that is building an engine from making the same mistakes. :mrgreen:
 
GotDart said:
Awww, come on and fess up. You might save someone else ... like me... that is building an engine from making the same mistakes. :mrgreen:
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Good point:

When using ARP main studs machine your #5 main saddle down to accomadate the stock thickness stud nut under the oil pump.

Do NOT modify the nut....:sad3:
 
Enough said. #-o You can also use a stock bolt in this location instead of a stud. Sounds crude but it works.
 
FASTBACK340 said:
Good point:

When using ARP main studs machine your #5 main saddle down to accomadate the stock thickness stud nut under the oil pump.

Do NOT modify the nut....:sad3:
Click to expand...

Got a picture of that? My machine shop already assembled the short block with studs on the main caps. I have an oil pump in a box somewhere in the garage. I guess I could dig it out and maybe see what you're talking about.
 
GotDart said:
Got a picture of that? My machine shop already assembled the short block with studs on the main caps. I have an oil pump in a box somewhere in the garage. I guess I could dig it out and maybe see what you're talking about.
Click to expand...

Better grab the pump and go visit the machinist..... The stud & nut interfere with the oil pump. Thats why you have to relieve the bearing cap and shorten the stud so you can install a UNMOLESTED nut on the shortened stud.

Drop the pump on the assembled cap and you'll see.... Unfortunately I don't have any pictures. If I remember I'll snap a pic or two when I go to the garage this week.
 
Well actually you can cut the nut down a little and grind some clearance on the oil pump. I've done it before with no ill effects. On the current engine I had no time for such tomfoolery like machine work so I cut the stud, used a 12 point nut without the washer and ground a little clearance on the oil pump. Been holding together fine.
 
GotDart said:
Got a picture of that? My machine shop already assembled the short block with studs on the main caps. I have an oil pump in a box somewhere in the garage. I guess I could dig it out and maybe see what you're talking about.
Click to expand...

Sorry for the long lapse, but here's a picture of the nut to oil pump clearance:
part23.jpg
 
Thanks John. My short block is in my garage on a stand wrapped in plastic waiting for me to finish the truck project. Hopefully in the next couple months I'll get back to it and check this out.
 
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