Rrrrrrr, need help on this one.

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I understand, people add in line fuses because fusible links aren’t as easy to find and they tend to be a little more expensive. Plus, it’s easier to replace a fuse than it is a complete fusible link wire. Regardless, I don’t believe the inline fuse is the problem compared to using a fusible link. Something isnt wired correctly or a wire is touching something it shouldn’t be. It has to be on the ignition circuit.
You have locked yourself in to your assumptions and conclusions. Here's where your problems are. Free yourself from your assumptions and you will be able to diagnose this.
 
I bet there was a short that caused the PO to install the inline fuse. The original problem wasn't found and fixed but just band-aided with a inline fuse.
 
I’m surprised that 10 fuses didn’t fix the problem.
I blew each fuse as I tried something differenet, smart ***. I know for a fact my horn relay is no good. Would this cause this problem ? I wouldn’t think so ? But, I’m not sure ?
 
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I blew each fuse as I tried something differenet, smart ***. I know for a fact my horn relay is no good. Would this cause a this problem ? I wouldn’t think so ? But, I’m not sure ?
Un plug it and throw in a new fuse. It has power to it at all times but it only passes current when you hit the horn button.
 
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Un plug it anf throw in a new fuse. It has power to it at all times but it only passes current when you hit the horn button.
I don’t know how I can add a fuse when it has 4 prongs and I’m not going to hack up my horn relay harness. I’m in the process of buying another horn relay. At $20 a piece, I hope it doesn’t burn up too, lol !
 
I don’t know how I can add a fuse when it has 4 prongs and I’m not going to hack up my horn relay harness. I’m in the process of buying another horn relay. At $20 a piece, I hope it doesn’t burn up too, lol !
I didn't say to add a fuse to the horn relay circuit. I said, if you suspect the horn relay could be causing the fuse to blow simply unplug the relay and replace the blown fuse. If the fuse does not blow with the relay unplugged it could have been the issue. Simple diagnostics.
 
I didn't say to add a fuse to the horn relay circuit. I said, if you suspect the horn relay could be causing the fuse to blow simply unplug the relay and replace the blown fuse. If the fuse does not blow with the relay unplugged it could have been the issue. Simple diagnostics.
ok, lol ! I’ll try it.
 
Welp, I have very good news and a little bad news. I removed bad horn relay, made no difference. To my surprise, a couple of you guys were right. I replaced the inline fuse with a fusible link and the power is holding up. Nothing is burnt, etc. Now, for some unknown reason, I lost spark to the plugs. I tried 2 different coils. Still no spark ?
 
Seems I have spark now. The middle blue wire on the alternator was getting hot, smoking a little. I have no damn clue what’s going on.
 
The alternator may have an internal short.

If smoke is coming out, you likely have a short SOMEWHERE!
 
Not the case on alternator. I tried 2 different alternators. Obviously, a short somewhere. I know what a fusible link is. I have a pretty good mess that runs along the passenger side valve cover to the alternator that i’m going to address. Hoping that fixes it. This connector was tied in with the rest of the alternator wiring. But, wasn’t being used. Anyone know what this is supposed to connect to ? It’s a pretty distinctive connector. 2 connectors inside.

2289A7DF-29AE-4A13-9FBE-764AAC761A38.jpeg
 
Not the case. I tried 2 different alternators. I realize what a fusible link is. I have a pretty good mess that runs along the passenger side valve cover to the alternator that i’m going to address. Hoping that fixes it. This connector was tied in with the rest of the alternator wiring. But, wasn’t being used. Anyone know what this is supposed to connect to ? It’s a pretty distinctive connector. 2 connectors inside.

View attachment 1715559656
You need to start a wanted thread. Someone might be be to help.
 
I'm beginning to think you may have a bad ignition switch. That could cause both of your problems. If you turn the ignition switch to the on position, do you have power to the ballast resistor and coil +? If so, try cranking the starter by jumping at the relay or starter motor to get the engine to crank. If it now starts, and still doesn't with the key, the ignition switch is probably bad. I've seen a few of those switches melt down by in internal short/ground or a grounded wire in the steering column. If you don't get power to the coil with the key in the on position, start tracing back toward the ignition switch to see where the open/short is.
 
Not the case on alternator. I tried 2 different alternators. Obviously, a short somewhere. I know what a fusible link is. I have a pretty good mess that runs along the passenger side valve cover to the alternator that i’m going to address. Hoping that fixes it. This connector was tied in with the rest of the alternator wiring. But, wasn’t being used. Anyone know what this is supposed to connect to ? It’s a pretty distinctive connector. 2 connectors inside.

View attachment 1715559656

In with the wiring diagrams in the 74 manual are charts/ drawings of the various connectors with their locations I don't have a 74 manual handy, but in the 73 manual it looks to be the A/C low pressure switch

ce19.jpg
 
I'm beginning to think you may have a bad ignition switch. That could cause both of your problems. If you turn the ignition switch to the on position, do you have power to the ballast resistor and coil +? If so, try cranking the starter by jumping at the relay or starter motor to get the engine to crank. If it now starts, and still doesn't with the key, the ignition switch is probably bad. I've seen a few of those switches melt down by in internal short/ground or a grounded wire in the steering column. If you don't get power to the coil with the key in the on position, start tracing back toward the ignition switch to see where the open/short is.
Funny you mention it. I don’t see a ballast resistor for this car. With electronic distributor conversions. They are not needed. I don’t think it’s the switch. Anyone know what the middle blue wire is for on the alternator. On my 69 B body. That middle wire is grounded to the front of the grill cradle. On this car that middle field wire goes to a blue wire. attached to harness.
 
In with the wiring diagrams in the 74 manual are charts/ drawings of the various connectors with their locations I don't have a 74 manual handy, but in the 73 manual it looks to be the A/C low pressure switch
I bet you’re right. I believed it to be AC related as this car was and no longer is. I need wiring diagrams. Anyone know where I can find one ?
 
Funny you mention it. I don’t see a ballast resistor for this car. With electronic distributor conversions. They are not needed. I don’t think it’s the switch. Anyone know what the middle blue wire is for on the alternator. On my 69 B body. That middle wire is grounded to the front of the grill cradle. On this car that middle field wire goes to a blue wire. attached to harness.

1...What are you talking about "ballast is not needed." IF you have a Mopar electronic ECU it IS needed

2....WHY don't you think it is the switch? Have you checked it? And how did you?

3...Now you have me entirely confused. "Middle blue wire is grounded?" I don't know what a "middle blue" wire IS Maybe you are referring to a LATER (70 later) alternator WHICH IS ISOLATED FIELD and has TWO field connections, and if one of these is used on a 69/ earlier car WITH ORIGINAL old style regulator, you would ground one field, and connect the remaining alternator field terminal to the green wire going to the VR field terminal.

You need to drop over to MyMopar and review how the older and the newer regulators are connected. Are you using the 70/ later "flat" electronic regulator? If so one field is connected to switched 12V "ignition run" voltage and the remaining one is connected to the green VR wire
 
1...What are you talking about "ballast is not needed." IF you have a Mopar electronic ECU it IS needed

2....WHY don't you think it is the switch? Have you checked it? And how did you?

3...Now you have me entirely confused. "Middle blue wire is grounded?" I don't know what a "middle blue" wire IS Maybe you are referring to a LATER (70 later) alternator WHICH IS ISOLATED FIELD and has TWO field connections, and if one of these is used on a 69/ earlier car WITH ORIGINAL old style regulator, you would ground one field, and connect the remaining alternator field terminal to the green wire going to the VR field terminal.

You need to drop over to MyMopar and review how the older and the newer regulators are connected. Are you using the 70/ later "flat" electronic regulator? If so one field is connected to switched 12V "ignition run" voltage and the remaining one is connected to the green VR wire
I found the ballast resistor. Yes on my 69 it has the identical 2 field alternator. The middle terminal is grounded near the grill support. I’m still learning the difference on B and A bodies. I don’t believe it’s the switch because it worked fine until I removed alternator.
 
You cannot "believe", "think", "assume", "guess" or...........I've run out of terms

CHECK IT A and B bodies ARE NOT DIFFERENT. The break was 69/ earlier model year vs 70/ later model year.

Calling this whatever 'the middle terminal" is not helpful and not descriptive. You have either 1 field terminal and the other factory grounded, or you have TWO field terminals, both insulated from ground. If you ground 1 terminal, this "converts" it to a 69/ earlier alterlnator.
 
I’ve done column work on b bodies. Is it pretty simple to switch out the ignition harness on a 73 Dart ? As far as pulling it out and replacing it. I assume it can replaced without removing the key lock correct ?
 
I’ve done column work on b bodies. Is it pretty simple to switch out the ignition harness on a 73 Dart ? As far as pulling it out and replacing it. I assume it can replaced without removing the key lock correct ?
So you've isolated the problem?..
 
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