Running Issues

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6pak

6pak

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Starts, Runs, runs badly, won’t take pedal. Bangs out the exhaust.
Im down to changing the plugs and maybe cap and wires.
It’s cheap enough.
Im tracking this problem down.
Found this on one of the plugs I pulled out.
What causes this?

48B36538-052C-4A2F-AF93-31DAF762D3D9.jpeg
 
Have you checked your timing? Wires on correct plugs? Not sure about the plug being bridged but could be from wires being connected to wrong plugs.
 
I was thinkin along the same lines.
Wires are on right.
I had/have wiring problems with a rotten harness, but worked out run1&run2. Ballast good, Coil power good, points & condenser good.
Rotor falls short (1/4”) of #1 post at tdc1. Imagine would pull further away with ignition advance.
This is what concerns me.
I keep coming back to this. Rotor phasing. But don’t see how it could go bad.
 
3 diff coils.
Nice fat 1/2”” spark
Now working my way from coil wire towards plugs.
Replace ‘em all !
But the phasing thing is buggin me.
 
If you're running a points distributor why are you freaking out about phasing? By the way what is the engine and what is the distributor?
 
6pak said:
Jadaharabi said:
If you're running a points distributor why are you freaking out about phasing? By the way what is the engine and what is the distributor?
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
Because when the spark is thrown, it would be nice if the rotor was under the post of the wire to the cylinder that needs to be fired.
Small block mopar, - single points distributor.
Ok
How do I close this thread?
 
I've never heard the term phasing before. But is sounds like timing to me. Do you have a timing light? Put a timing light on #1 and adjust the timing (phasing) to the specs. I've never heard of measuring timing in 1/4" rotor to post position...just saying
 
Set crank at 10*BTDC(or whatever fsm says), then the rotor should be right on cyl #1 tower. That eliminates the "guesswork" of that 1/4" if that makes sense?
 
That is NOT phasing. Phasing the rotor means that when the spark occurs, the rotor tip is at, or very close, to one of the segments in the cap. When the centri weights advance, & vac adv operates, this position changes slightly but the rotor tip must still be close to the segment for all operating conditions to ensure the spark jumps to that segment. #1 tower can be any tower.
 
You have given precious little info to go on. Engine? You think maybe you could tell us about it? How it's built? Is it stock? Does it have performance parts? Has it ever run well? You know. Important information that can help us help you. I know if I wanted help with something, I would be giving an information DUMP. Throw us a bone here.

What I see from that one plug is an engine (whatever it is) that's runnin pig rich.
 
Never had or seen a phasing issue with a Mopar points system. I have seen the wrong points once installed and the rubbing block was out of place. What is your distributor number also? There are a few different "phased" or clocked shafts out there mostly dual points though. We still need to know the engine also what year as stated above.
 
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6pak said:
I was thinkin along the same lines.
Wires are on right.
I had/have wiring problems with a rotten harness, but worked out run1&run2. Ballast good, Coil power good, points & condenser good.
Rotor falls short (1/4”) of #1 post at tdc1. Imagine would pull further away with ignition advance.
This is what concerns me.
I keep coming back to this. Rotor phasing. But don’t see how it could go bad.
Click to expand...
FORGET TDC. The damn thing DOES NOT FIRE at TDC. Set it up at the firing point and then see where you are.
 
Basically stk 360. Mild 260/.440” cam.
Made up of all diff parts. And I have changed a lot of stuff around trying to fix this, - so I guess I probably introduced new problems.
This distributor. A reman. Points open before rotor meet the post. About 1/4” before getting to it.
& I think advance makes it worse.
Rad good, then Ran bad, now won’t run at all. Wants to start, but wont fire up and run.
Has banged out the exhaust a couple times and the wife comes out the house to see if I had shot myself.
- she was disappointed.
Was thinkin to ignore the distributor, and checking valve timing next.
 
Autolite 65
Came out of 4 or 6.
 
Some plugs came out black, a couple wet, and a couple brown.
But it had been running like crap for a while.
When it was running good, they were almost perfect.
Tomorrow. Compression check.
Now, #1 intake valve begins to open about 10* before tdc.
But this is a 1 man operation and i can only bump the starter to check.
I keep thinkin about the 2 road flares I have in the trunk to solve all the problems!
 
6pak said:
Some plugs came out black, a couple wet, and a couple brown.
But it had been running like crap for a while.
When it was running good, they were almost perfect.
Tomorrow. Compression check.
Now, #1 intake valve begins to open about 10* before tdc.
But this is a 1 man operation and i can only bump the starter to check.
I keep thinkin about the 2 road flares I have in the trunk to solve all the problems!
Click to expand...

with that set up at #1 tdc and lifter, make sure rotor is pointing at #6 dist tower.
 
..........Have you used a piston stop or otherwise confirmed the timing marks are actually correct?
 
Im going to meticulously go over it tomomorrow if I can get another hand.
It’s just a 4cycle engine, right?
How hard can it be?
- but, kickin my ***
- probably wind up something stupid.
 
6pak said:
Now, #1 intake valve begins to open about 10* before tdc.
Click to expand...
that would have to be a really really small cam to be right. That is about where a factory 318 cam opens.
That gap bridging is most likely carbon. It probably got there during a "backfire", blown in from the headerpipe. Just a guess.
 
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