While looking in the trunk of my 65 Barracuda last night I noticed some rust in the trunk lid itself. These are not visiable from the outside, but as I prepare to paint this summer, I need to out a stop to it. I'm at work. so I don't have a picture with me. The area is in a recessed area which would be hard to sand. What advice do you have for me?
rust issues
- Thread starter Tadams
- Start date
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If you can, take the whole car down to bare steel and go from there. A lot of work, and a lot of hassle, but all your questions should be answered as far as rust. I could of gotten away with scuffing over original paint and a skim over 90% of my car, but I would of always wondered about hidden rust. Now I know. It worked for me, it may not work for everyone.
This is a place I can't sand. Wish I had a picture with me. It's like there are 2 layers of the trunk. One would be like a skeleton with the cover on the outside which is the outside of the car. Does this make any sense
I have a big wire cup on my right angle grinder, it gets a lot of rust cleaned off in hard to get to places, also great on the inside floor pans, inside truck floor. I use it on the inside of trunk lid pinch welds at the edge of the lid., bottom of isdie of the door pich welds, etc.... I clean as good as I can, then use "ospho", its a phosphoric acid type solution, costs like $10 a gt at true value auto. be sure it is totally dry before applying any primer, and realize an acid based epoxy might cause a problem with it.
most of us don't have a small sandblaster but obviously great for those hard to sand spots.
l ike he said, best to take the entire to bare metal, any pitted areas I like to treat also. i'm NO body expert, but learned from experience scattered over the years plus I will ask real body men their opinion. opinions run the gammet!!!!!
not sure what the question is with "skeleton", but the factory dpped the car in primer, it has seal sealer around joints, then it was painted.
all body guys will tell you to clean it to as bare and clean meta as you can, then go with some sort of epoxy/ self etch primer as a base. body guys I know use NO rust killer or preventative. probably because if there is a reaction to it, then the paint supplier would not be liable?? they do clean with then with the epoxy. and go from there.... my opinion.
most of us don't have a small sandblaster but obviously great for those hard to sand spots.
l ike he said, best to take the entire to bare metal, any pitted areas I like to treat also. i'm NO body expert, but learned from experience scattered over the years plus I will ask real body men their opinion. opinions run the gammet!!!!!
not sure what the question is with "skeleton", but the factory dpped the car in primer, it has seal sealer around joints, then it was painted.
all body guys will tell you to clean it to as bare and clean meta as you can, then go with some sort of epoxy/ self etch primer as a base. body guys I know use NO rust killer or preventative. probably because if there is a reaction to it, then the paint supplier would not be liable?? they do clean with then with the epoxy. and go from there.... my opinion.
Thanks. If you open your hood, or trunk, you will see there is a frame work underneath that is the structural support for the outside of the body. That's is what I was trying to say as a skeleton. May not be the proper term, but I hope this makes sense. I cam post a picture tonight.
Lol, yes. But why can't you sand it, is it in between the bracing and the outer skin?
Short of taking the whole car down, and taking the skin off of the frame or "skeleton", you might try Eastwood internal frame coating.
1968FormulaS340
Well-Known Member
You could get a rust neutralizer and spray it in there. Follow that with SEM Rust Preventer. The kit comes with a wand to get into the inner structure.
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