Rust Repair Maiden Voyage

rich006 · Jan 6, 2017

This thread will document my first attempt at rust repair, on my '74 Swinger quarters and rocker panel. The paint is original except for some touchup that was done by previous owner. I'm not going for a concours restoration, just trying to stop the rot, preserve as much original good metal as possible, and make the car presentable as a daily driver. I don't want to do any welding, and I'm not too proud to fill some holes with plastic filler.

Here's the left quarter

and a close-up

the right quarter

a close-up of the lower right quarter

The worst of it is just behind the wheel.

rich006 · Jan 6, 2017

Oh, here's a pic of the car. The paint is in good shape overall.

memike · Jan 6, 2017

Ok Let the grinding and trim removal begin :thumbsup:

v8fish · Jan 6, 2017

Watching as I will be starting my first moderate rust repair work as well although I will be cutting and welding some metal.

MrJLR · Jan 6, 2017

Subscribed!

Jeff

Dartnut · Jan 6, 2017

My 2 cents for what it's worth is:
If you are going to the bother of doing the work, i would suggest that you cut out the rotted metal and either weld in new metal, or at least use a panel adhesive and do it right the first time.
It looks like it was ''bondoed'' up before, and then the paint was spotted in.
That's a very nice looking car you have there, it would be too bad if you went to the trouble of a patch job and the rust growing any more than it is now.
And it will come back to haunt you, and the rust will even be worse than it is now, you can mark my words on this...........

GeorgeH · Jan 6, 2017

Dartnut said:
My 2 cents for what it's worth is:
If you are going to the bother of doing the work, i would suggest that you cut out the rotted metal and either weld in new metal, or at least use a panel adhesive and do it right the first time.
It looks like it was ''bondoed'' up before, and then the paint was spotted in.
That's a very nice looking car you have there, it would be too bad if you went to the trouble of a patch job and the rust growing any more than it is now.
And it will come back to haunt you, and the rust will even be worse than it is now, you can mark my words on this...........

Yep! And after grinding those areas will become much larger.

tlgbg · Jan 6, 2017

GeorgeH said:
Yep! And after grinding those areas will become much larger.

Grinding rusty areas can get you to this:

rich006 · Jan 6, 2017

Dartnut said:
If you are going to the bother of doing the work, i would suggest that you cut out the rotted metal and either weld in new metal, or at least use a panel adhesive and do it right the first time.

I'll follow that advice. I'll go with the panel adhesive because I don't have storage space for a welder. (I can rent a flux-core welder, but I understand they tend to burn through sheet metal.)

Here's the plan:
wash car
tape/paper off areas around the repair
grind to bare metal to expose all rust spots
spray with epoxy primer
cut out a rust spot
cut and bend a patch
cut and bend overlap pieces to go behind joint
(may need to use self-tapping screws where clamps won't go)
glue overlap pieces, let cure
glue patch to overlap pieces
(repeat cutting/gluing for each hole)
skim with fiber-filled body filler
blend with conventional body filler
spray with epoxy primer
sand 80 grit
alternately prime and sand with 220, 400, 600
paint: single-stage or base/clear? color is PPG 2136, Chrysler E5

rich006 · Jan 6, 2017

tlgbg said:
Grinding rusty areas can get you to this:

My car will turn yellow? Seriously though, I'm hoping I can just use small patches instead of buying a whole panel. We shall see how bad it is.

74SwingerSpe · Jan 6, 2017

rich006 said:
I'll follow that advice. I'll go with the panel adhesive because I don't have storage space for a welder. (I can rent a flux-core welder, but I understand they tend to burn through sheet metal.)

Here's the plan:
wash car
tape/paper off areas around the repair
grind to bare metal to expose all rust spots
spray with epoxy primer
cut out a rust spot
cut and bend a patch
cut and bend overlap pieces to go behind joint
(may need to use self-tapping screws where clamps won't go)
glue overlap pieces, let cure
glue patch to overlap pieces
(repeat cutting/gluing for each hole)
skim with fiber-filled body filler
blend with conventional body filler
spray with epoxy primer
sand 80 grit
alternately prime and sand with 220, 400, 600
paint: single-stage or base/clear? color is PPG 2136, Chrysler E5

Hi rich006,
You should consider using "USC's All-Metal" rather than fiber-filled body filler. It is water proof when dried and is often recommended for welded seems to keep moister out. Just a suggestion. My son and I have used it on our duster project, and it seems really easy to work with.

Travis

Dartnut · Jan 7, 2017

rich006 said:
I'll follow that advice. I'll go with the panel adhesive because I don't have storage space for a welder. (I can rent a flux-core welder, but I understand they tend to burn through sheet metal.)

Here's the plan:
wash car
tape/paper off areas around the repair
grind to bare metal to expose all rust spots
spray with epoxy primer
cut out a rust spot
cut and bend a patch
cut and bend overlap pieces to go behind joint
(may need to use self-tapping screws where clamps won't go)
glue overlap pieces, let cure
glue patch to overlap pieces
(repeat cutting/gluing for each hole)
skim with fiber-filled body filler
blend with conventional body filler
spray with epoxy primer
sand 80 grit
alternately prime and sand with 220, 400, 600
paint: single-stage or base/clear? color is PPG 2136, Chrysler E5

Good plan you have there.
Just be sure you have everything at hand before you glue the pieces in, you wouldn't want it to set before it was in proper position..........

rich006 · Jan 7, 2017

Instead of washing the car in falling snow, I wiped with a soapy rag and toweled dry. I'm glad I picked up that old space heater at the neighbor's estate sale!

It took most of the morning to get the aluminum trim off the wheel well lip. Those screws were really seized to the trim. I used PB blaster, WD-40, and many sideways taps to the screw heads with a hammer and an old screwdriver. I think what really freed them was wedging the screwdriver between the head and the trim. Now the trim is a little dented around the screw holes, but it's not that bad.

I opened up quite a few holes just by tapping with my old screwdriver. The inside is predictably full of dirt, scale, and a few leaves. I didn't realize that the inside is open to the trunk until I saw my tire iron through one of the holes. Anything that falls down the side of the trunk floor gets trapped in there.

The inside wheel well panel is starting to rot too. The lip itself feels pretty solid. I hope I can reuse it.

rich006 · Jan 7, 2017

74SwingerSpe said:
You should consider using "USC's All-Metal" rather than fiber-filled body filler.

All-Metal was recommended to me by the guy I was going to pay to do this job, after he convinced me I could do it myself. However, fiber-filled is prescribed in the directions on the Lord Fusor panel adhesive. Also, I read somewhere that All-Metal isn't better than fiber-filled. It's aluminum, so it has different thermal expansion than steel. Apparently the modern plastic fillers are a better match to the expansion properties of the steel. Someone who knows better can feel free to weigh in here.

rich006 · Jan 7, 2017

I decided to start with a flap-wheel instead of a grinding disk.

Clearing down to shiny metal didn't reveal much rust that wasn't already apparent via bubbling.

It looks like the rust is working its way out from the inside. Now the question is how much do I have to cut out?

v8fish · Jan 7, 2017

Not a professional or even a novice for that part as I will be beginning my first real rust repair soon myself. I would think at least an inch beyond any visble rust would be a good place to start.

forphorty · Jan 7, 2017

That entire lower part of the outer quarter needs to go. That area is nothing but rust and paper thin. They always rust from the inside out. And You need a welder. I will post a pic or two of what a lower quarter with what appears to be minor rust actually looks like once it is cut away.