RustyRatRod's Guide To Hot Rod Bliss

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RustyRatRod

I was born on a Monday. Not last Monday.
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RustyRatRod's Guide To Hot Rod Bliss

Recent threads have prompted me to write this up.
It seems people get caught up in marketing and hype that advertisers spread through ads in magazines and on the internet and through internet forums such as this. Although some of these marketing tactics are legitimate, I want to dispel a few myths.

1). You do not need a large by huge MSD or any other fancy brand ignition system on most vehicles. All out race cars racing for money and points need the hot spark and consistency these type systems can deliver. Your everyday or even weekend race car does not.
Stock ignition systems are perfectly suitable for everyday street applications. That's what they were designed for. They can be upgraded to even withstand the rigors or an all out race car, if you so desire.

2). When choosing a camshaft, always err on the smaller side of any multiple choice decision. Why? Because of all of the outside influences from the aftermarket through magazine ads and the internet that seem to indicate that bigger is better. It's not.
You will be much happier with a camshaft that's too small than one that is too large. We all get caught up in what an engine will sound like. Throw that out the window. If an engine is built to true HP standards, it will have the snappy sound of an HP engine, regardless of camshaft choice. The higher cylinder pressure, free flowing intake and exhaust will all have a direct impact on how an engine sounds.

Stock factory camshafts were designed for everyday driving, within RPM ranges of idle to about 4500 or so RPM. Guess what? That's right were 90% or more of street driving is done, regardless of what type vehicle you have. That means with a few upgrades such as intake and exhaust and carburetor, an engine with a stock camshaft will respond surprisingly well!

Factory HP camshafts were a fantastic marvel. Although considered "small" or "baby" by some, consider this. The factory had to design them so as to still retain some form of mileage, street manners and ability to run power accessories with a good vacuum signal, all the while exceeding the performance of the stock camshaft. That's a pretty tall order.
Most people don't realize a stock HP camshaft will pull well beyond 5K RPM. Ask yourself honestly. How often and how long will your engine be operated in that RPM range? Chances are your honest answer is "not very often".

The truth of it is, the factory HP packages are hard to improve upon. Sure, you can build an engine that easily eclipses them, but at what cost? The inability to run power brakes? A poor idle? Poor drivability? Extremely poor bottom end performance? Poor mileage?
I have seen stone stock 340 Darts get close to 20 MPG and then spank some high 13 second quarter mile times with slicks. That's a ball of badassary that's tough to duplicate. And the recipe is already laid out.

No cooling problems. No stupid oil pressure problems. No dumbass header leaks. It's all right there in front of you.

Aftermarket camshafts are always ground with advance figured in. Usually 4* is the industry standard, but it can vary. Know why? Because 90% or more of people out there make two mistakes.

First, they choose a camshaft that's too "large" for their application. Second, they don't degree the camshaft. Make these two mistakes together, and you will have an engine that might sound good, but it won't pull a greasy string out of a cat's ***.

This is why you err on the small side. Have a stock 318 and want to re cam? Then it's probably best not to go over 220 degrees @ .050" lift. Considering that stock camshafts have a good bit less then 200* @ .050", going over .200 is an upgrade.

How many times have you seen or heard someone that revved a totally stock engine above 5K RPM? A LOT. So, what makes you think you need 240* @ .050" to make one run strong? You do not. That will be wasted duration on most any street engine.

Some stock camshafts were in the 190* range @ .050". So, a 220* @ .050" is a huge upgrade. With everything matching the cam, intake, carb and exhaust, there's no reason that engine cannot pull past 6K RPM. There is NO need for some thing bigger other than sound and bragging rights. And if it won't run worth a darn, what's the sound worth?

3). Same considerations should be taken with the drive train. Why does a street car need a 3K RPM stall converter? Kinda makes it not a street car anymore. Why does a mild street engine need all that? In most instances, you can get by with nothing more than the stock Hi Stall 340 converter......although I will admit converter technology has exploded in the past 20 years.

A good converter that can flash to your matched combination's stall speed, yet still remain "tight" while cruising, is a big bonus. The converter is probably the single biggest consideration to make in a hot rod. No skimping here can do you any good. Get a GOOD converter.

4). Why do you need an 850 double pumper on the street? Because Chevy Action said so? Wrong. Most of these online carburetor formulas are right on the mark. Around 360 cubes needs something like 600-650 CFM to be happy. Find a calculator and use it.

5). Do you need 2.5" primary tube headers on a street car? Yeah, if you want bottom end to SUCK, you might. Stick with the 1 5/8 tube and you will be fine. As to brand, I ain't goin there. But lets just say if I ever build another A body, it will sit at the stock ride height, not some ghetto lookin stuff scrapin the ground, so Summit headers will work for ME.

6). With all this mildness going on, why in the world would you need a 4.10 gear out back? Unless you are running an overdrive, you don't. I have seen FIRST HAND in my life time a stone stock 340 Duster mop the FLOOR with an LS6 454 Chevelle. It was pretty embarrassing.

Why stray too far from such a FANTASTIC formula? We all see it on here everyday. People asking "What's the best......."

The best gear is usually what matches what you will be DOING with the car. Not what you WANT. Not what some Chevy guy told you. Not what you read on some forum or in some magazine.

Somewhere between 3:1 and 4:1 works best. If you are using an overdrive transmission, closer to 4:1 is better. If not, probably 3:23 or 3:55.

Use your head. Ask around. Don't fall for gimmicks. Don't try to build a race car to drive back and forth to work everyday. The farther you get from the factory HP packages, the more "unstreetable" it will be.

Pretty simple, really.


Thank you drive through.
 
RustyRatRod's Guide To Hot Rod Bliss

Recent threads have prompted me to write this up.
It seems people get caught up in marketing and hype that advertisers spread through ads in magazines and on the internet and through internet forums such as this. Although some of these marketing tactics are legitimate, I want to dispel a few myths.

1). You do not need a large by huge MSD or any other fancy brand ignition system on most vehicles. All out race cars racing for money and points need the hot spark and consistency these type systems can deliver. Your everyday or even weekend race car does not.
Stock ignition systems are perfectly suitable for everyday street applications. That's what they were designed for. They can be upgraded to even withstand the rigors or an all out race car, if you so desire.

2). When choosing a camshaft, always err on the smaller side of any multiple choice decision. Why? Because of all of the outside influences from the aftermarket through magazine ads and the internet that seem to indicate that bigger is better. It's not.
You will be much happier with a camshaft that's too small than one that is too large. We all get caught up in what an engine will sound like. Throw that out the window. If an engine is built to true HP standards, it will have the snappy sound of an HP engine, regardless of camshaft choice. The higher cylinder pressure, free flowing intake and exhaust will all have a direct impact on how an engine sounds.

Stock factory camshafts were designed for everyday driving, within RPM ranges of idle to about 4500 or so RPM. Guess what? That's right were 90% or more of street driving is done, regardless of what type vehicle you have. That means with a few upgrades such as intake and exhaust and carburetor, an engine with a stock camshaft will respond surprisingly well!

Factory HP camshafts were a fantastic marvel. Although considered "small" or "baby" by some, consider this. The factory had to design them so as to still retain some form of mileage, street manners and ability to run power accessories with a good vacuum signal, all the while exceeding the performance of the stock camshaft. That's a pretty tall order.
Most people don't realize a stock HP camshaft will pull well beyond 5K RPM. Ask yourself honestly. How often and how long will your engine be operated in that RPM range? Chances are your honest answer is "not very often".

The truth of it is, the factory HP packages are hard to improve upon. Sure, you can build an engine that easily eclipses them, but at what cost? The inability to run power brakes? A poor idle? Poor drivability? Extremely poor bottom end performance? Poor mileage?
I have seen stone stock 340 Darts get close to 20 MPG and then spank some high 13 second quarter mile times with slicks. That's a ball of badassary that's tough to duplicate. And the recipe is already laid out.

No cooling problems. No stupid oil pressure problems. No dumbass header leaks. It's all right there in front of you.

Aftermarket camshafts are always ground with advance figured in. Usually 4* is the industry standard, but it can vary. Know why? Because 90% or more of people out there make two mistakes.

First, they choose a camshaft that's too "large" for their application. Second, they don't degree the camshaft. Make these two mistakes together, and you will have an engine that might sound good, but it won't pull a greasy string out of a cat's ***.

This is why you err on the small side. Have a stock 318 and want to re cam? Then it's probably best not to go over 220 degrees @ .050" lift. Considering that stock camshafts have a good bit less then 200* @ .050", going over .200 is an upgrade.

How many times have you seen or heard someone that revved a totally stock engine above 5K RPM? A LOT. So, what makes you think you need 240* @ .050" to make one run strong? You do not. That will be wasted duration on most any street engine.

Some stock camshafts were in the 190* range @ .050". So, a 220* @ .050" is a huge upgrade. With everything matching the cam, intake, carb and exhaust, there's no reason that engine cannot pull past 6K RPM. There is NO need for some thing bigger other than sound and bragging rights. And if it won't run worth a darn, what's the sound worth?

3). Same considerations should be taken with the drive train. Why does a street car need a 3K RPM stall converter? Kinda makes it not a street car anymore. Why does a mild street engine need all that? In most instances, you can get by with nothing more than the stock Hi Stall 340 converter......although I will admit converter technology has exploded in the past 20 years.

A good converter that can flash to your matched combination's stall speed, yet still remain "tight" while cruising, is a big bonus. The converter is probably the single biggest consideration to make in a hot rod. No skimping here can do you any good. Get a GOOD converter.

4). Why do you need an 850 double pumper on the street? Because Chevy Action said so? Wrong. Most of these online carburetor formulas are right on the mark. Around 360 cubes needs something like 600-650 CFM to be happy. Find a calculator and use it.

5). Do you need 2.5" primary tube headers on a street car? Yeah, if you want bottom end to SUCK, you might. Stick with the 1 5/8 tube and you will be fine. As to brand, I ain't goin there. But lets just say if I ever build another A body, it will sit at the stock ride height, not some ghetto lookin stuff scrapin the ground, so Summit headers will work for ME.

6). With all this mildness going on, why in the world would you need a 4.10 gear out back? Unless you are running an overdrive, you don't. I have seen FIRST HAND in my life time a stone stock 340 Duster mop the FLOOR with an LS6 454 Chevelle. It was pretty embarrassing.

Why stray too far from such a FANTASTIC formula? We all see it on here everyday. People asking "What's the best......."

The best gear is usually what matches what you will be DOING with the car. Not what you WANT. Not what some Chevy guy told you. Not what you read on some forum or in some magazine.

Somewhere between 3:1 and 4:1 works best. If you are using an overdrive transmission, closer to 4:1 is better. If not, probably 3:23 or 3:55.

Use your head. Ask around. Don't fall for gimmicks. Don't try to build a race car to drive back and forth to work everyday. The farther you get from the factory HP packages, the more "unstreetable" it will be.

Pretty simple, really.


Thank you drive through.


Good advice. might add intakes to that list though. and matching your combo well so it works all in the way it should.
 
Good advice. might add intakes to that list though. and matching your combo well so it works all in the way it should.

Thanks. I was hoping I didn't have to spell it ALL out. LOL
 
Id like to add the following .....

Factory performance parts are actually pretty darn good for two reasons. The same reasons that are still true today. The factory makes a part the performs and lasts. It performs to meet the goal of the car and lasts because they have to warranty the part should it fail. And that becomes very expensive quickly.

From top to bottom on the engine;

Air cleaners;

The factory HP air cleaners are pretty efficient and often a good looking part on top of it.

Carb's;

While we have a few members that just scream one word, "Holley," understand that the factory Carter carbs do indeed have enough behind them to power your engine. While there not as flexable and super tune able as that nice $400+ Holley that still requires a jet kit or that wonderful $800 custom, Holley based carb, think if you could use that money else where more wisely?

My favorite carb is the junk yard or swap meet steal. Rebuild them and the total price is a fraction of the cost of a new base model carb. Get to know your carb numbers and styles and know what they flow from wise.

I get a ton of flak from some members on the use of the TQ carb. I look at it this way. For street and mild HP builds, a $50 core, $50 rebuild kit and I have a carb flowing over 700cfm that is flexable enough to street/strip it. Run 11's or use on a street and get 20mpg's?



I'm sorry, but spend $800 for what again? I'm not racing for the money people.
Intake manifold;

Sure it is heavy as heck. Save half the weight by spending $230+ for how much gain in power? It has been said over and over here and in print, it's NOT a bad part. It is 400hp capable.

Next up is a subject of great debate.

Heads;

Even with the small valve sizes that came in the low compression/smog years, the iron heads can be rebuilt with the larger valves IF you really need them and in many cases, you don't. A key component to making power is air flow and much can be gained in the heads. Even smog year factory small valve heads can be rebuilt and given a bowl porting to flow enough air to make over 450 HP. And guess what!?!?! There's still room to expand on!

The other thing is the can be redone for less than those new aluminum units your eye balling. In which once you get them, they still very well may need work out of the box. Heck, just checking them is an added cost you didn't think about did you?

A lot of people purchase these aluminum heads and do not take advantage of there breathing capability.

Why are you spending more for heads and not taking advantage? To save 50lbs.?
LMAO!!!!

The camshaft;

Read up on the manufacturers site. They often explain cams at a hot riders level, not a rocket scientist level. This is so you can make a choice. An informed choice. If all else fails, you can call them. They will even custom grind you a cam for chump change over the off the shelf cam price.

Hey! It's your money, use it wisely, you worked hard for it, and as one member says, pick your parts spend your money.

The best advise I can give to the general public is to simply "Make a plan and stick to it because changing plans cost a lot of money." Also remember, there is no shame in doing a copy cat build. Hell! Just thank the guy that did the build first. That person just saved you a lot of time and money and your copy caring is seriously just a compliment to them. There are a lot of builds out there.
 
And another thing, many short sell factory parts as sub standard. Trust me on this, "The right part for the application at hand!" Your not going to find a TQ on top of a 800hp race small block. Your not going to see a 7-1/4 behind my pumped up 360,
Use your heads! Ask!

At some point in time, the factory part should be upgraded. But for basic enjoyment on the street, that 8-1/4 rear as well as other parts are fine. A little overkill is fine. A lot of overkill is just wasting money and time.
 
Absolutely Rob! Thank you! You see clearly what I am after. You don't have to break the bank with the latest and greatest to do what all these mags and forums say to do! Spot on my friend,

Anymore advice in this direction is most welcomed!
 
Id like to add the following .....

Factory performance parts are actually pretty darn good for two reasons. The same reasons that are still true today. The factory makes a part the performs and lasts. It performs to meet the goal of the car and lasts because they have to warranty the part should it fail. And that becomes very expensive quickly.

From top to bottom on the engine;

Air cleaners;

The factory HP air cleaners are pretty efficient and often a good looking part on top of it.

Carb's;

While we have a few members that just scream one word, "Holley," understand that the factory Carter carbs do indeed have enough behind them to power your engine. While there not as flexable and super tune able as that nice $400+ Holley that still requires a jet kit or that wonderful $800 custom, Holley based carb, think if you could use that money else where more wisely?

My favorite carb is the junk yard or swap meet steal. Rebuild them and the total price is a fraction of the cost of a new base model carb. Get to know your carb numbers and styles and know what they flow from wise.

I get a ton of flak from some members on the use of the TQ carb. I look at it this way. For street and mild HP builds, a $50 core, $50 rebuild kit and I have a carb flowing over 700cfm that is flexable enough to street/strip it. Run 11's or use on a street and get 20mpg's?



I'm sorry, but spend $800 for what again? I'm not racing for the money people.
Intake manifold;

Sure it is heavy as heck. Save half the weight by spending $230+ for how much gain in power? It has been said over and over here and in print, it's NOT a bad part. It is 400hp capable.

Next up is a subject of great debate.

Heads;

Even with the small valve sizes that came in the low compression/smog years, the iron heads can be rebuilt with the larger valves IF you really need them and in many cases, you don't. A key component to making power is air flow and much can be gained in the heads. Even smog year factory small valve heads can be rebuilt and given a bowl porting to flow enough air to make over 450 HP. And guess what!?!?! There's still room to expand on!

The other thing is the can be redone for less than those new aluminum units your eye balling. In which once you get them, they still very well may need work out of the box. Heck, just checking them is an added cost you didn't think about did you?

A lot of people purchase these aluminum heads and do not take advantage of there breathing capability.

Why are you spending more for heads and not taking advantage? To save 50lbs.?
LMAO!!!!

The camshaft;

Read up on the manufacturers site. They often explain cams at a hot riders level, not a rocket scientist level. This is so you can make a choice. An informed choice. If all else fails, you can call them. They will even custom grind you a cam for chump change over the off the shelf cam price.

Hey! It's your money, use it wisely, you worked hard for it, and as one member says, pick your parts spend your money.

The best advise I can give to the general public is to simply "Make a plan and stick to it because changing plans cost a lot of money." Also remember, there is no shame in doing a copy cat build. Hell! Just thank the guy that did the build first. That person just saved you a lot of time and money and your copy caring is seriously just a compliment to them. There are a lot of builds out there.


I agree with all but the intake portion....I've never paid more than 75 bucks for an intake, and currently I have a pair of Performer PRMs, 1 for each sb and a B series intake, a be series street dominator and a torker 2 RB intake. Swap meets, these intakes are every where and cheap, and a couple of them i got new for 50 each....
 
I agree with all but the intake portion....I've never paid more than 75 bucks for an intake, and currently I have a pair of Performer PRMs, 1 for each sb and a B series intake, a be series street dominator and a torker 2 RB intake. Swap meets, these intakes are every where and cheap, and a couple of them i got new for 50 each....

Same here, I think the most expensive one was an LD340 and I paid 100 bucks for it. All of the other intakes I have, 50 bucks apiece.
 
Well, the price of used stuff is relative to WHERE you are and WHAT deal you are able to haggle. Other than that, a good dual plane is the way to go with over 90% of street driven stuff.

Thanks yall. Good stuff so far. Yall are right on target with my original post. I knew I could depend on my buddies.
 
Pretty much agree. I can STILL remember how the old V code 440-6 ran, and how, later, that stock 71 340 ran in the same car. And, I've mentioned on here many times a "340 like cam" because even though there are updated / better / more modern grinds, it is STILL hard to beat the old factory 340 cams. Lots of torque and good street manners, a pleasing idle chop, excellent mid range and cruise, and a "fun" top end. AND ALL WHILE getting decent mileage. Bear in mind ALL 340s were SMOG engines. That's right!!! The first 340 came out in 68, and YES!!! it had CA and Federal engine emissions controls.
 
True on the "Used Intake price."
However, spending the coin on a new one is clearly a choice and not a bad one BUT!
What is the goal and do you NEED it to get there.
For basic hot ridding and around town cruise and/or Hwy. driving, do you NEED that intake?

Not having the 4bbl. To start is one thing, all ready having the 4bbl. And building for 300 - 375 hp doesn't require spending a ton of money. But hey, if you really want to, it's your coin!
I often shop here in the FABO classifieds for stuff. As long as the seller is honest and doesn't hide anything, great deals can be found here. I have picked up a few intakes here at good prices. 90% of the forum membership does gouge.

However the compare I was trying to make is what you all ready have vs. brand spankin new. Not classified new.

This thread is part, use what you got because in general terms, it ain't so bad vs. spending a lot of money and probably replacing a part that can do the job with a part that cost a lot with little bennifit or cost effective worthiness.
But if spending on a new intake just because it is 10HP better than the other part is great for your 350HP build, so be it.
 
Often wondered if we should have a "Snake Oil" sticky or forum.
..very good advice for street performance!
 
Much agreed sir! ...and thank you kindly!

Pretty much agree. I can STILL remember how the old V code 440-6 ran, and how, later, that stock 71 340 ran in the same car. And, I've mentioned on here many times a "340 like cam" because even though there are updated / better / more modern grinds, it is STILL hard to beat the old factory 340 cams. Lots of torque and good street manners, a pleasing idle chop, excellent mid range and cruise, and a "fun" top end. AND ALL WHILE getting decent mileage. Bear in mind ALL 340s were SMOG engines. That's right!!! The first 340 came out in 68, and YES!!! it had CA and Federal engine emissions controls.
 
So does this mean if I manage to muster 400 ponies out of a 3000 dollar build, I did good? :D

eh you did okay....if my combo produces what I'm expecting(duplicating one of IQs builds), I should be around 550 flywheel.....for a whopping 2300...... including the price of the motor. Course I'm getting a huge discount on on my machining work and i got most of my parts on sale or at swap meets.
 
Dang it, now I feel inferior, lmao. Actually I'm hoping for a bit more on less, we shall see.
 
Cheaper the better but not to the point of hurting. LMAO!

A lot of times bolt on parts and a cam do really nice. IQ52 has shown us a few times that even a low compression engine with a good set of heads can make some really nice power.
If your bottom end is solid & a street bound "fun" ride is what your after, then do not rebuild it, invest the time to get a good combo of parts. I'd rather spend good coin on well done heads than most anything else. Of course a shot short block is a shot short block and a rebuild is in order then. But if it ain't broke and works well, why spend?

This makes me wonder what that "On the cheap 318 Duster" I did a while back would have done with some head work over the OE ('79) heads.
 
Also, you don't need those big dollar aluminum roller rockers unless it's a race engine spinning a zillion RPM. In 30 years of beating the snot out of Mopars, I have had ONE stock rocker fail. A friend is on his third set of rollers...........
 
Good article Rusty. My two things to add, and please add your thoughts.

1 - how many times have I heard about the carb being too big so it is running rich......completely wrong! All things being equal a bigger carb will run leaner as there is less air velocity through the venturies, unless the jetting is screwed with.

2 - how many times have people put on all the fancy aftermarket brakes......then complained about how crappy the car stops. The factory stuff is good, use it! And power brakes are not required in an a body!
 
Well, I'm not to amused with my '71/400/727 Duster with the OE 9 inch drums on all 4 corners! LMAO! Of course, all things relative!

Oh! I did forget to mention IQ52's low comp dyno blasts are (IIRC) low octane friendly?
 
Thank you guys! Great advice and I can honestly admit, I got suckered into some of that you need this you need that hype. Im still dealing with issues from that. I know better now, and my next build is going to be much different!
 
Thank you guys! Great advice and I can honestly admit, I got suckered into some of that you need this you need that hype. Im still dealing with issues from that. I know better now, and my next build is going to be much different!

It's very easy to do Ramie, I try and resist the urge at all cost. My build won't be anything but solid I hope, lol. Only fancy thing will be the Crane Gold roller rockers, aluminum intake, and valve covers.
 
Well I was certainly taken in " a few times." Probably one of the worst was when the Tarantula came out, and then the "Torker." Of course the WORD "torker" suggests what you think it might be......and ain't. A manifold designed for the 'torque' range.

I wasted a lot of time, "back then" screwin with that thing. Of course I'd already sold the perfectly good Edelbrock 180 that had been on it

Another huge waste of time was a Sun one piece electronic tach.....advertised to operate with electornic ignition...........guess what........it didn't, we were running Delta or Tiger SST CDI back then, and that damn thing cost me a LOT of time

Holley chrome mechanical fuel pumps circa 197? Both my Chev buddy (70 350 pu) and me (440) put those damn things on, lasted a day or two and broke the arm pivots. That is the ONLY pump I've ever broken like that.
 
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