Safety neutral switch

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vtmopar

vtmopar

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Rewiring my car.
B&m pro shifter has no switch
Ordered a nc safety switch for b&m shifters
I see no way to install it.
What's my best option?
On the transmission?
727
Thanks
This one has bugged me and need to get wired
Right.
 
the one on your 727 will still work, you don't need the b&m one. the ground wire from the start relay goes to the middle prong at the switch if you didn't already know.
 
Yup. It actually does not matter which of the two "push on" terminals you hook to on the relay

I really prefer the originals to the B&M The original is more insurance that the trans is actually in park/ neutral, as opposed to a shifter/ cable out of adjustment
 
This is what I have in the car now:
Painless 5001 8 circuit wiring harness.
Switch panel I made myself.
the wiring harness is a relay activation.
So I have the switches wired to the relay activation harness.
Push button start not using the key any longer.
I am running an alternator and voltage regulator.
But I do not have have a starter relay in the car I did not think I needed one I assumed the solenoid on the starter was enough.
This could be my problem.
The car is just about done all that is left is the wiring and some small detail stuff.
I planned on running the line lock power source off the battery disconnect.
To stay away from the power source from a relay.
Is this the way to go?
thanks.
Wiring is not my strong point.
everything isin the car just need to figure out the details of where everything should go.
I did solder every connection to make sure this will last.
 
You should use a relay when ever the draw is high. In Mopar's case it's just the trigger for the solenoid but it's still a high amperage draw. It get's esspecially important as the temperature of the engine and components goes up. I have a B&M shifter at home - if you can wait until tomorrow afternoon I'll dig it out and get a pic of it.
 
It depends on how much current your push button can handle, and how large the wiring is from batter supply --through the button -- to the solenoid.

I am SURE that using the BM switch for a "full current" push button is NOT recommended, so you still need a relay of some sort.

Frankly, I see no need to get rid of the starter relay. If you want something heavier, you could use a starter solenoid like a Ford, but you'll need to get one wired so that the two small terminals are the coil connections. Very Few start solenoids are wired this way.

There was an oddball had 5 terminals used on AMC?? that would work, but they are a little rare

How 'bout the ignition bypass circuit? Are you running a ballast resistor type ignition? IF so, the newer Jeep start relay will handle that function, as it has a second contact.
 
Run the ground wire from your relay 86 to the NSS. That will or should provide the ground path for the relay.
 
Anyone have a diagram they would share?
I am running a msd 6al and a msd distributor
With external coil
I appreciate the help
 
I am using 3 B&M pro sticks...I use the simple Chrysler starter relays switch with the transmission grounded thru the NNS....
 
vtmopar said:
This is what I have in the car now:
Painless 5001 8 circuit wiring harness.
Switch panel I made myself.
the wiring harness is a relay activation.
So I have the switches wired to the relay activation harness.
.
Click to expand...


You mean Painless 50001. Sadly, I find their documentation ambiguous and poorly written

crackedback said:
Run the ground wire from your relay 86 to the NSS. That will or should provide the ground path for the relay.
Click to expand...

Yes, the relay box from painless "should" give you everything you need if you can figure it out.

IF you download the "Painless" destructions for the 50201 switchbox, PURPLE no14 is "start"

Then look at table 6.2 of the destructions for the 50001 That purple hooks to harness connector terminal 11

So that fires the relay in the Painless box

The output seems to be purple no10 wire no 870 "starter solenoid"

What they don't mention that I can find is how to incorporate a grounding NSS with the Painless start relay.

I'm sure cracked is correct. Pull the box apart so you can access the bottom of the included start relay.

Bosch relays have either 4 or 5 terminals depending on whether they are "normally open" (closed with coil power)

or whether they are SPDT (three wire switching, IE center wire switching to two contacts.

In the below diagram,

85 and 86 are the relay coil. One of these is grounded and the other goes to your starter push button. You need to find out (in the 50001 box) which terminal is grounded, and BREAK that ground, and run that relay terminal off to your NSS

IF this is strictly an "on/ off" relay, 87A may be missing. It is the "normally closed" contact

"Heavy" power will be coming into the relay at 30

87 will be the purple wire run off to hook to your Mopar solenoid.

An ALTERNATE way of doing this, if you decide to use the BM switch, is to put the BM switch inline with the starter push button on the way to the input of the relay box.

And of course you can run the purple to your factory start relay and hook the original NSS up as per factory, to the other start relay push on terminal. I see nothing wrong with this. Mopar start relays have been pretty reliable, and it gives you a nice big stud for power junction

Bosch_relay_diagram_1.GIF
 
Thanks for the input everyone
I ended up finding that there is a bracket that
Goes on my pro shifter that I did not have
So I ordered one up from summit
It should be here Monday.
Then I am using a starter solenoid that will be
Signaled through the NSS to give the starter power.
Pretty simple should work
 
You what, you are using a Ferd relay in the trunk? I would not run the NSS through that, instead run your NSS in series with your starter button to your 50001 box relay, and use that relay to trigger the Ferd solenoid

Those shifter mounted switches aren't all that heavy duty
 
It's not in the trunk.
It's under the hood.
The start button is wired with a signal wire
Into the relay box, the power then will sent to
The starter solenoid
There will only be a enough voltage going through
The NSS to activate the solenoid
This way there will be only 12 volt starting power
At the starter in neutral or park
Anyone else see why this won't work?
 
The thing is, those solenoids draw a fair amount of power, and the BM style microswitches are NOT very heavy duty. It would be a LOT better if you'd put it in the starter switch path
 
So what I will do is run the start button signal
Wire through the b&m switch then.
I don't even need the ford switch.
Thanks it seemed simple but it was not for me.
At the end of this build, all is left is finish up the
Wiring.
Build the header extensions for the mufflers
And bleed the brakes.
 
Heh!! The problem of course, is that I can't "see" what you have.

I assumed you are trying to (or have) eliminated the Mopar relay, and are using a Ford solenoid in place of the Mopar start relay

NOTHING wrong with that.

I assume your start button fires a relay in the 50001 relay box, the output of which fires the Ford solenoid

Nothing wrong with that.

The whole thing comes down to, I don't believe the BM swiches are particularly heavy duty. They MIGHT stand up to the Ford solenoid coil, but I'm not all that confident.

That's why I suggest breaking the line from your start button, and inserting the BM switch in series with that.

The relay in the 50001 box SURELY draws much less coil current than the Ford solenoid, so that should unload the BM switch.

Otherwise, if your start button is heavy enough (most are) you don't even NEED the relay in the 50001 box. You could just go power -- start button -- BM switch -- Ford relay

(By the way, if you need coil resistor bypass for start, the Ford relay makes that easy. Get the old style with FOUR terminals. The "S" terminal goes to your start button/ NSS circuit, and the "I" terminal is wired to the downstream side of the coil resistor.


I'm assuming from an earlier comment, that you are installing a jumper on the two existing starter connections, and running just one large ga. wire from the Ferd solenoid to the Mopar starter?
 
I'm assuming from an earlier comment, that you are installing a jumper on the two existing starter connections, and running just one large ga. wire from the Ferd solenoid to the Mopar starter?

Yes
 
Here is the illistation showing where the switch goes....
I had a Pro Ratchet.....
Hope this helps

[ame]http://bmracing.com/wp-bnmcont/uploads/20.pdf[/ame]
 
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