Scarebird Disc - What Master?

[plumkrazee70]

So I decided on the Scarebird route for my disc conversion, but a few questions on the Master:

They suggested a late 80's early 90's mini van power master, which has a 15/16 bore, but I would have to "modify" my pushrod to fit the piston.

Is there a master someone else used with their existing pushrod, or a combination of a master a pushrod from a different year car?

I have a 70 dart with SBP.

Thanks!

 

[66Dvert]

So I decided on the Scarebird route for my disc conversion, but a few questions on the Master:

They suggested a late 80's early 90's mini van power master, which has a 15/16 bore, but I would have to "modify" my pushrod to fit the piston.

Is there a master someone else used with their existing pushrod, or a combination of a master a pushrod from a different year car?

I have a 70 dart with SBP.

Thanks!

this is the one I used for my 66 dart using scarebird setup. (I used it on a 65 satellite also, it had a 1 1/32 wildwood master on it and was terrible!) the plymouth now stops better than ever . it does have a longer push though. about 1 inch more than the other one. A LOT easier to push! there are a couple more that I have used this master on and they have performed well also. it's from a 73 dart 360 disc/drum combo.
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=966993&cc=1499091

WRONGPARTNUMBER this is driums all the way around. remove residual valve if you want to use it with scarebird conversion

Use this insteadRAYBESTOS Part # MC36406 Professional Grade; Bore Size=15/16"

Front Disc brakes; Rear Drum brakes;

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raca...&parttype=1836



THANKS Inertia (my bad)ops:

 

[plumkrazee70]

this is the one I used for my 66 dart using scarebird setup. (I used it on a 65 satellite also, it had a 1 1/32 wildwood master on it and was terrible!) the plymouth now stops better than ever . it does have a longer push though. about 1 inch more than the other one. A LOT easier to push! there are a couple more that I have used this master on and they have performed well also. it's from a 73 dart 360 disc/drum combo.
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=966993&cc=1499091

Awesome. Did you have to purchase a new pushrod or mod the factory pushrod to fit this master?

 

[66Dvert]

Awesome. Did you have to purchase a new pushrod or mod the factory pushrod to fit this master?

nope just used the stock rod for the 65 plymouth and I have the stock rod in my 66 also. I've done a couple of friends cars too and they all used the stock rod. (get a new rubber piece if you can that goes on the rod if yours is bad, I used an oring/oil and FORCE)
they even sent me a new pushrod boot in the master cylinder box too! first one I ever got with a master cylinder

 

[plumkrazee70]

nope just used the stock rod for the 65 plymouth and I have the stock rod in my 66 also. I've done a couple of friends cars too and they all used the stock rod. (get a new rubber piece if you can that goes on the rod if yours is bad, I used an oring/oil and FORCE)
they even sent me a new pushrod boot in the master cylinder box too! first one I ever got with a master cylinder

Great. Did you add a proportioning valve also?

 

[66Dvert]

Great. Did you add a proportioning valve also?

on my 66 I did, the 65 satellite and others already had an adjustable proportioning valve on them . I used all new hard lines from inline tubes and got their ($90)prop valve(going on wife's dart.). I could have used it. But the one I got on here from a 73+ unit was a whole lot cheaper(that's going on the my Dart)plus it is already biased for the drum/disc for a 73. Or you could use an adjustable valve like many people do. you should need one to adjust the bias from front to rear to keep em from locking up. some people say they didn't use a proportioning valve and have no problems yet. I'd be worried about the excess pressure going to the rears locking em up.


some people just unhook the rear brake line. cap the original hole on that distribution valve and run a new line from the master to an adjustable prop. valve that get's hook to the rear line they unhooked. saves then running new lines and such.

 

[Inertia]

Ummm,.. that Mater cylinder you linked to,, is for 4 wheel drum brake,, and would require you to remove the residual pressure valve, which isn't hard,, but this master is correct for disc, and is 15/16 bore.. so it's a direct bolt on.. it's outta 73 dart with disc..

RAYBESTOS Part # MC36406 Professional Grade; Bore Size=15/16"

Front Disc brakes; Rear Drum brakes;

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/racatalog.php?carcode=1228890&parttype=1836

hope it helps

 

[66Dvert]

Ummm,.. that Mater cylinder you linked to,, is for 4 wheel drum brake,, and would require you to remove the residual pressure valve, which isn't hard,, but this master is correct for disc, and is 15/16 bore.. so it's a direct bolt on.. it's outta 73 dart with disc..

RAYBESTOS Part # MC36406 Professional Grade; Bore Size=15/16"

Front Disc brakes; Rear Drum brakes;

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/racatalog.php?carcode=1228890&parttype=1836

hope it helps

oops:banghead: your right I did remove the valve in one of them but the other 3 didn't have it. lemme swipe your number and put it with my corrections sheet to make sure I don't give out the wrong info again. or give out a part number that requires more work!

 

[coffeedart67]

I used DBMC15 master cylinder from Right Stuff(ordered through Jegs). I also used the 2 piece front to rear brake line from the Right Stuff and an adjustable proportioning valve. I went with that master cylinder on Right Stuffs recommendation.