Retroboy
Well-Known Member
Howdy I know there are several versions but that's it. Tell me everything.
School me on W2 heads.
- Thread starter Retroboy
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pishta
I know I'm right....
long valve, short valve, econo. I think there was 5 models. Econo takes the standard exhaust pattern and has cast pedestals. Others dont have cast pedestals and a different exhaust pattern. Others can elaborate.
604B1duster
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I have 810s without the pedestals ( long valve) and the standard exhaust pattern.
Sedanman
67-9 Valiant specialist
and some have dual exhaust patterns
Actually to many versions to list and talk about.
If your purchasing new, it would be easier since there are just a few versions to discuss.
Basically for the street and street strip cars there's the standard 59* heads.
Race heads can use ether 59 or 48* heads.
If your purchasing new, it would be easier since there are just a few versions to discuss.
Basically for the street and street strip cars there's the standard 59* heads.
Race heads can use ether 59 or 48* heads.
Retroboy
Well-Known Member
OK I now have a casting number P 4532683. I haven't had any luck finding it yet but they are NOS closed chamber with a duel drilled exhaust. ? Any ideas?
I would like to know this as well. Are they all iron, did they make aluminum w2 or were w5 and w9 heads the aluminum ones? Long valve, short valve, pedastels or none. Valve sizes, I've looked for a descriptive writeup of these just like the op and haven't found a good one. I'm not a small block guy but from what I've seen and read the w2 make awesome power even compared to today's heads. RRR or yellow rose, rumblefish, krazy and cracked,I know u guys can spit some info on these.
WEBBY
Well-Known Member
Back in the day.....BATTEN.....made a aluminum W2 Head. Thanks Webby.
Marcohotrod
Well-Known Member
the casting number is not the part number. do your heads have stock type rocker pedestals or flat type? cc the chambers
MR4V
Well-Known Member
Ok I'll subscribe to this one, 310 views and 8 replies so there's plenty more as well that want to know.
We never got the WSeries heads here in Oz so until eddies can along all we had were J's
So we/I get lost with the difference between W2,W5 & W9 heads, what parts are required, early and late heads, 59* & 48* and what interchange's.
Rob(Rumblefish360) I know you've played with these heads and a lot of other member on FABO, someone can help out
We never got the WSeries heads here in Oz so until eddies can along all we had were J's
So we/I get lost with the difference between W2,W5 & W9 heads, what parts are required, early and late heads, 59* & 48* and what interchange's.
Rob(Rumblefish360) I know you've played with these heads and a lot of other member on FABO, someone can help out
I have a set of closed chamber (47 or 52??cc) non pedestal, dual exhaust pattern W2's im having cleaned up now, looking forward to getting them running, dont know much about them though
Nice dual quads MR4V, ive admired your car several times at events at Northlakes BTW
Greg
Nice dual quads MR4V, ive admired your car several times at events at Northlakes BTW
Greg
Valiant Steve
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I just happen to have one brand new CJ Batten Alum W2 head has the seats installed but never been machined bare casting if anyone needs one they are rare and you can't just order one as they are no longer in business .
sorry I guess it dosent cover the w2 head . disregard the last post .
Whew! You ask a tall order but I will try my best to comply without opening up my catologs.
I'm sure to be corrected and/or have some info added since I don't think I can get it all in one shot here, but, LOL, know it all I am not! So here we go.
The "W2" is a cast iron head only from MoPar except Batten and (IIRC) another maker whom I can not remember at this moment. They were available in a variety of ways.
59* & 48*
Standard and long valve
Various head chambers from 72cc down to a low (IIRC) 47cc, maybe less.
(Put those 47cc babies in a stock smother engine and wake it up real good!)
Pedestals cast (econo) in and non pedestal (race)
Econo doesn't mean less performance in any way shape or form. It is named an "Econo" head because it did not require the (then) expensive rocker stands and race valve gear. The Econo head could use factory rockers with mod's to the shaft and a set of 8 off set rockers.
The heads cam bare or assembled.
2.02/1.60 valves were standard.
Early versions came with dual exhaust bolt patterns.
Not all W2 heads have dual exhaust patterns drilled and tapped.
Later years have strength adding ribs on the exhaust side.
As cast, and stated by the MP books, intake flows at around the 260 cfm range.
Ported can see 300 cfm easy
I have been told in some very ported heads, 330 cfm has been achieved.
Mopar puts these heads in the 13 - 10 second power range. I have seen 9second runs with the W2 head.
Current rocker gear for both styles of W2 heads are available but not by all manufacturers.
1.5 or 1.6 rockers are readily available.
I takes for these heads (used to) range from cast iron or aluminum 4bbl. dual plane, aluminum single plane 4bbl., street and/or strip. And dualquads from a few manufacturers.
Exhaust can be tricky. Adapter flanges were needed early on until some header manufacturers came out with W2 specific headers. (Hedman, TTI) And it would be my advice to use a big tube header and let that head exhale!
All other Mopar "W" series heads are aluminum.
The W5 head is the last in the W series head that can be used on a mild street engine. It still uses the OE style shaft to mount the rocker arms. While they can not truly shake the bad wrap they so truly deserve due to the company who cast them, there not all bad. But can be a gamble. The can be very well ported out and capable of pushing a race A body into the 9's no problem.
Currently, (and IMO) the new Edelbrock Victor head has as cast bettered the extremely well ported W5 making the W5 near worthless. Also, the standard EdelbrO I can come very close to its performance through a well done CNC program. So, IF you want to gamble on a set of W5's, they should be cheap to start with.
I have zero experience with the W7-8-9 head.
Member "Smokindust" is starting his W8 headed engine now IIRC.
(I have to call him up anyways, I'll make a mention of the thread to him for a comment about them.)
My W5's ported by Brett Miller 2.00/1.60 Ti valves polished tool steel valve springs, max hand ported until epoxy was needed. So we went no further. The intake is a M1-W5 large port.
Do take note of the flow rates between the different bore sizes and keep that in mind when you read them on other sites and when your building your own engine. Sorry for the blurry flow rate photo.
Do take note of the flow rates between the different bore sizes and keep that in mind when you read them on other sites and when your building your own engine. Sorry for the blurry flow rate photo.
I had a love/hate relationship with the W5. We had them CnC ported on a group buy many moons ago, and as luck would have it, ours leaked on the #3 intake short turn. We discovered this about 50 passes into a very strong running combo. We sent the head back to the business that had them ported and it returned epoxied. Put the mill back together and 150 passes in the epoxy came out. At that point we sought out to do the repair correctly and found a guy in Iowa that has brought many Brodix sprint car heads "back from the dead" as the builder I was talking to stated. I had a junk W5 that we cut on a band saw and sent the section along with the head to the repair shop. He had the head for three months before calling saying he gave up. The head would literally crumble when he attempted to weld on it.... In the mean time we put our lesser ported set of W5's on the short block hoping to get some racing it. It went two passes and kicked the #3 rod. We later figured the loss of the epoxy probably hydro'ed the cylinder and hurt the rod causing it's early exit after the installation of the other set of heads. At that point, we licked our wounds, and sold all the W5 stuff we had.
it was interesting.... these were the newer "blue plug" castings that most say are the ones to own, but so was our other set and the finish of our other set was much different. I was banking on the new Ebrock heads coming out as we still had a couple 340 blocks to play with, but we got sick of waiting and bought a W8 top end and the snow ball rolled straight to hell from there. I will say, the W8 heads are a very nice high quality piece.
For the record my dad was wheeling the car at the time and was short shifting running 10ohs as the car wasn't legal to go 9's. We upped the shift light to 6800 and the car ran some 9.8's at 137. 4:30 gear and too tight of converter was killing some ET. I'm sure we could have gotten some mid to high 9.6s out of it. This was on a stock 340 block, filled with aftermarket 2 bolt steel caps. If the quality of the material would have been worth a hoot we'd still be running them. We actually bought the second set to start building a duplicate engine to have as a spare. Never got that far.
it was interesting.... these were the newer "blue plug" castings that most say are the ones to own, but so was our other set and the finish of our other set was much different. I was banking on the new Ebrock heads coming out as we still had a couple 340 blocks to play with, but we got sick of waiting and bought a W8 top end and the snow ball rolled straight to hell from there. I will say, the W8 heads are a very nice high quality piece.
For the record my dad was wheeling the car at the time and was short shifting running 10ohs as the car wasn't legal to go 9's. We upped the shift light to 6800 and the car ran some 9.8's at 137. 4:30 gear and too tight of converter was killing some ET. I'm sure we could have gotten some mid to high 9.6s out of it. This was on a stock 340 block, filled with aftermarket 2 bolt steel caps. If the quality of the material would have been worth a hoot we'd still be running them. We actually bought the second set to start building a duplicate engine to have as a spare. Never got that far.
MR4V
Well-Known Member
Hi Greg, next time introduce yourself, I normally attend Northlake, Lakesside 1/8 and Willowbank. You want find me to far from the car.
Cheers
Karl
All tall order it may have been, you're come through again. Thanks Rob.
Scary picture of the head. But that is what "could happen" with a W5.
The W2's draw back is rocker cost, weight & oval intake ports which mean 1 of 2 things.
W2 oval port intakes only which can be very pricey brand new or port the head to a rectangle which is very pricey to do but does make intakes a lot cheaper to purchase and experiment with.
There is only 2, W2 intakes now. Edelbrock Victor, Mopar M1 single and dual plane are the only ones new that I know of.
You used to be able to purchase an Offenhouser & a Holley for the W2. Not anymore as far as I know, BUT, it is possible to get them cheaper by compare used.
Below is a W2 Holley Street Dominator. Purchase from a FABO member.
The W2's draw back is rocker cost, weight & oval intake ports which mean 1 of 2 things.
W2 oval port intakes only which can be very pricey brand new or port the head to a rectangle which is very pricey to do but does make intakes a lot cheaper to purchase and experiment with.
There is only 2, W2 intakes now. Edelbrock Victor, Mopar M1 single and dual plane are the only ones new that I know of.
You used to be able to purchase an Offenhouser & a Holley for the W2. Not anymore as far as I know, BUT, it is possible to get them cheaper by compare used.
Below is a W2 Holley Street Dominator. Purchase from a FABO member.
....and the "unobtanium" Erson Rocker Arms. 
Overhead W2 Holley street dominator
Underside
Yes! A slight redrilling of the intake bolt holes is all you need to do. So E-Z, your kid can do it.
Do you have a shot of the end rail spacers by chance?
Do you have a shot of the end rail spacers by chance?
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