How much hp improvement are you looking at there over the factory finish? I imagine you see improvement in the tuning as well.
Not sure on the power side of it. I’m more concerned with getting the fuel and air happier and together in a better mix.
Since I almost never do a heated intake of any kind, I have been noticing some tuning issues. Like tip in problems that take some odd T slot/bleed sizing to get cleaned up. Especially on the tunnel ram stuff.
It’s annoying to no end on a street/strip car to deal with tip in issues. Drives me nuts. Not sure if part of it is the cold intakes and pump fuel or what, but I’ve been fighting it lately.
I think the other thing to go along with a burr finish to help with atomization and getting at least some of that wall flow back into the air stream is annular boosters.
I played with them in the mid 1980’s and hated them. On a normal sized 4150 there was always a hole in the fuel curve, and I couldn’t get it out. Pulling the annular booster and installing a down leg fixed most of and the rest you could tune out with a reasonable jet/bleed/emulsion package.
I now believe that back then the issue was the booster itself. With all the options in annular boosters today, you can get about any thing you want...8, 12, 16, 20 or even more holes plus you have options in size and shape.
Interesting to note, but probably not surprising, I prefer a bit bigger carb over a smaller carb IF the chassis is set up for it AND it can be tuned, so the annular booster certainly helps with that.
And, like I said...a cold intake manifold and pump gas (at least the pump gas we get today) don’t play well together. So I’m attempting to clean up some drivability and tuning issues.
If I get some power along the way thats will be a bonus.