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Will_H#24

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My knowledge of multimeters is very limited, I've watched videos on how to use one but still don't fully get it. I have a problem with my backup light switch in my 69 Dart 340 4 speed that I think could be bad. I have no reverse or under dash lights. I connected the meter to the switch and set it to continuity (sound) and shift into and out of reverse and I get an intermittent sound while I'm in reverse without moving the shift lever which leads me to think that the switch could be bad. I got a new switch from Advance and tried the same test and I get no sound at all from it by pushing on the ball on the back of the switch with the meter attached to it. I tried 3 different meters with the same result. Where am I going wrong? Thanks for your knowledge.
 
Most of the time when something like lights are not working, it’s that the ground for said item is not very good.

As for the meter, there are different setting but it sounds like your using the continuity setting which is like putting the probs on the ends of the garden hose when the water is on, you turn the water off the sound goes off. Same a flipping a switch
 
Scody21 said:
Most of the time when something like lights are not working, it’s that the ground for said item is not very good.

As for the meter, there are different setting but it sounds like your using the continuity setting which is like putting the probs on the ends of the garden hose when the water is on, you turn the water off the sound goes off. Same a flipping a switch
Click to expand...
Yes, that's what I thought. Continuity sound, no continuity no sound.
 
Will_H#24 said:
I got a new switch from Advance and tried the same test and I get no sound at all from it by pushing on the ball on the back of the switch with the meter attached to it
Click to expand...
How many wires are on the switch with the "ball"

Photos are very helpful!
 
Will_H#24 said:
Yes, that's what I thought. Continuity sound, no continuity no sound.
Click to expand...
You will only get the sound when a switch is true or closed. You also have to be probing the terminals that actually have a contact common to them. You also have to be ware of switches that may be normally open or normally closed. You can also use the same function to ensure your ground is good. A good ground would typically give you the same needle deflection as a closed switch.
 
Will_H#24 said:
Advance Auto Parts - Down for Maintenance
Click to expand...
sweet...it doesn't get much simpler than that. On or off end of story. If you have power to one terminal blade you are home. When the switch becomes true that voltage will cross the closed switch to travel to do the work of lighting the bulb. If that switch closes and power is present on the aft side you have a problem elsewhere. Old grounds are always a good place to look.
 
Pull the plug off the switch, stick a jumper wire into the plug terminals. Turn on the key, you should have reverse lights. If you do it's a switch issue, if you don't it's wiring.
 
Will_H#24 said:
I got a new switch from Advance and tried the same test and I get no sound at all from it by pushing on the ball on the back of the switch with the meter attached to it
Click to expand...
Is this the switch you bought?

Screenshot_20240927-081631.png
 
I connected my dash reverse light two days ago :)

Did u check the bulkhead connector..?
The reverse light wiring pass thru the firewall in the "Z" terminal of the bulkhead connector.
Engine side : the wire comes from the gearbox switch
Dashboard side : the wire goes to the dash light and in parallel to the body wiring connector, and then to the rear panel reverse lights.

If the "Z" terminal connection is bad, none of the three reversing lights will turn on, even with a good gearbox switch.
20220505_125628.jpg


Reverse lamp.jpg
 
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