shifting shuts my car off

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MikeyBoy

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So i am new to this 75 dart and i want to drive it daily.

As of now i still have to spend about 5 minutes warming it up to get it to run without shuttin off, and i guess i can deal with that at least for now,

however when i shift into reverse it dies right away. it does the same going into drive, but i rarely reach that point because it dies going into reverse.

if anyone can give me some idea of what might be causing this that would be great. also if you have any idea why it may need so much pedeling just to get warmed up, that would be cool too.

thanks a bunch in advance
 
What is the idle set at? May just need to speed it up. Could also be a dirty carb since you said you need to pump it to get it running. Will it rev up to say 3000 in park without dying?
 
Saw from another post that it is a slant 6. 1 or 2 bbl carb? It sounds like you need to rebuild/replace that carb or hunt down a vaccume leak. Set your bast timing and then adjust your carb and see what that does. Picking up a few cans of carb cleanner and spraying the hell out of the carb wouldn't hurt either. Can you post a pic of the engine bay?
 
I know its a one barrell carb, i dont see any helpful markings on it, alot of markings but nothing helpful.

I have adjusted the screws a little bit, but since im fairly new to workin on carbs, im not really sure what i am doin, i know fast idle is set pretty darn high. the only other carb ive adjusted was a Carter RBS and that was super simple.

and yah ill take pictures of the engine bay when i get home from work.
 
Auto or manual transmission? I once had a problem with the way my aftermarket gauge wires were run so that every time I pushed in the clutch, it would short out my electrical system...

Previous carb-related suggestions are more likely.
 
to be honest i dont remember on the screws, i think the carb is due for a rebuild anyway for sure. I'll take pics tonight and hopefully you guys can help me figure out which carb it is, and then itl be time to take it apart and put it back together.

and gofish its an automatic transmission
 
the verter locked up in my 86 dodge truck,the only way i figured out the problem was to jack the rear wheels off the ground,and try to put it in gear then.I knew the rear end wasnt locked up because i could push the truck a little bit in nuetral
 
its not the torque converter im pretty sure, because if i can get the car to not die out, basically by pressing on the gas right after shifting, i can drive it around without slowing down and itl be ok.

also pictures of the carb and engine compartment coming
 
Here are the pics of the engine, and then more specifically the carb
engineandcarb001.jpg

engineandcarb002.jpg

engineandcarb003.jpg

engineandcarb004.jpg


engineandcarb006.jpg

The numbers in this red zone are
6R 5147 B
8994 AAA
689
None of these really seem to be of any help in my identifying the carb, hopefully some of you guys can.
engineandcarb007.jpg

engineandcarb008.jpg

engineandcarb009.jpg

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I see it has an egr valve. If it's stuck that will cause rough idle too.

But the first thing to try is to set the idle a little higher and adjust the mixture screw to get the idle smooth. After you adjust the mixture screw you may have to back the idle speed down. The mixture screw is the one right below your circle showing the numbers. The carb don't actually look all that dirty from the outside. I know it's whats inside that really counts but usually when you see a carb that clean it means it's been rebuilt. It don't take them long to get gunked up.

I can see the fast idle speed adjustment screw and it does look like it's screwed in alot but I can't tell in any pics where the base idle speed adjustment is cause there's so much cluttered up together. But it's the one that when adjusting it after it's warm raises or lowers the idle speed. It could be as simple as it's just turned too far out.
 
Oh and I believe 6r 5147 B is the carb number. Why do you say none of the numbers identify the carb? Your not listening to some parts counter guy from Autozone are you? The vast majority of the parts jockey's (at any parts chain store) wouldn't know a carb from a ring gear if you hit them in the head with one.
 
Definitely check your initial ignition timing advance, my 318 Duster barely ran when I first got it. After bumping up the initial to 10* BTDC, it runs much better. After that I'd also recommend rebuilding the carb, and inspecting your distributor cap/rotor and spark plugs/wires for damage and possibly just replacing them all with new. Also check to make sure you have no vacuum leaks, as in there are no places under the carb or intake that are sucking in air and leaning out the air/fuel mixture.
 
Wow there is a motor under all that stuff? LOL, Looks like a Holley 1945.

You may want to start with a valve adjustment. A guy I work with has a 225 in a 66 dart and he swore up and down that it was the carb, new carb he swore that it was the ignition, new dist, coil, cap, rotor, ect. the car was still dieing at red lights and when it was cold. I adjusted the valves and it would stay running. Then I reset the timing and adjusted the carb and it runs great.

While the valvecover is off i would rip out all that emissions junk and the AC if you don't need it and it isn't working. Then you can get a carb from a 73 or older (before emissions junk was standard) and you will have a way cleanner engine bay.
DSC04604.jpg


If you decide to keep the emissions stuff check each hose for any cracks or splits and replace them as needed.
 
My Dads truck had a slant that died at every red light Drove me nuts. I replaced the stock coil and wires with Jacobs units. That was back in 90. Still has those pieces and hasnt stalled since.
 
I dont prefer to keep any of the emissions stuff, i have read about the valve adjustment. to be honest i really dont have much mechanical experiance, mostly just body work. is the valve adjustment somethign i can tackle as a newbie?

ive been wanting to go ahead and take the valve cover off as i found a chrome one from my first 73 duster that never made it on the car.

The AC however works, and is def not coming off with these 100 degree so cal summers haha.

ill have to check the egr valve to, and buy a timing light, haha, i guess realy she just needs a good going through, hopefully ill have a little time this week to do so
 
Pick up a Haynes manual for 1967-1976 Dodge Darts and Plymouth Valiants.
Get a set of feeler gauges, a valavecover gasket and a roll of paper towels and goto town! Adjusting the valves is easy.
Just take off the EGR and make up a sheetmetal cover for the spot that it used to go.
 
that black plastic canister on the right front corner of the engine compartment,it is filled with carbon(evaporative emissions canister)when they go bad............the carbon(lil' black round thingies)end up in the carburetor and cause a lean condition,the carb looks like it needs to be rebuilt anyway but if you find those lil' black thingies in there something will have to be done with that canister also(trashcan comes to mind) but you may have to replace it depending on the laws of you state.does it stall after warming up if you turn sharp?if so lil' black thingies are probably at fault good luck.
 
If you do decide to rip all the emissions stuff off and go with an older style carb. let me know. A buddy of mine just cleaned out an old defunct Dodge dealer and there was 2 or 3 brand new slant 6 carbs. They were the older ones made before all the emissions crap. I think he'll let them go cheap.
 
i wouldnt mind puttin a new carb on there, in california a car 75 or earlier doesnt need to be smogged so im not worried about that. i have heard the carter BBS carbs are better then the Holleys, we have one in a box, but im not sure if its totally complete, i might have to check it out. wouldnt a carb be killer expensive to ship?
 
Im pretty sure that you could ship a carb in a shoe box with some bubble wrap and it would be under 20 bucks.
 
Naw it should fit in one of the priority flat rate boxes. About $10.50 to ship. If I remember right the carbs he had were Holley's not Carters. I haven't had any experience with them so I don't know if one is better than the other. I have only worked on v8's and on them the old Carters were nearly indestructible. Holley's are good too but not as trouble free as the old Carters were.
 
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