Shock recommendations for SS spring car?

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dustergal

dustergal

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This is for my 12 second 50/50 street/strip '73 Duster 340 with SS springs, weighs 3,400 pounds. One of my old rear Monroe shocks blew out so I'm looking to upgrade. What do you guys run on your SS spring A-bodies? I'm looking at the Rancho RS9000. Are they long enough? Anyone got a part number and where can I buy them?

Or what other shocks do you guys run and recommend? Thanks
 
The Ranchos are a good way to go for a reasonably priced adjustable shock and work well with S/S springs from what I have been told buy some of the local drag racers.

Another way to go would be the Comp engenering 3 way adjustable drag shocks.


If it was more of a street car a set of gas shocks woulf be fine.

Drag only or mostly all drag car a set of Strange dubble adj drag shocks.
 
The ranchos would be a good choice. I think that CalTrac bought some of the 9 way line from rancho.

Best thing is to measure shock length with the rear hanging and shocks removed. Center to center on the mount post and add an inch. The extended length is more important than the compressed side. Really don't want the shock being your limiter on either end.

I think there are 3 base numbers with compressed and extended lengths:
99113 - 13.280 20.030
99114 - 15.410 24.290
99116 - 15.140 23.750

You might have to monkey with one of the shock end bushings because it's the smaller size than the A body ones IIRC.
 
Mopar has a long shock available also. Mancini should have them. I run them on my 68 dart.
 
Thanks guys! I didn't know Mopar Performance still sold shocks. We get a discount with them so....hmmmm. We'll probably go with the Ranchos though. Now just gotta find a place that sells them. Doesn't look like Summit Racing has them.
 
Didn't Mopar used to recommend different shocks for manuals and auto's? I don't remember for sure, and maybe it's not even relevant today?
 
I have no idea...my Duster is an auto and my Dart is a manual, so it would be interesting to know.
 
The 99114 is a bolt in with the correct bushing ends. I have the 9114 on my car which are the old 5 way version. The other #'s may have different ends. But the extended and compressed lengths still need to be checked against the range your suspension can travel.

The harder a car launches, the stiffer the shock should be. That was probably the difference between the Mopar auto & stick shocks. A shock has to control the wind-up and un-winding of the leaf springs. Too soft and you get wheel-hop because there is not enough dampening. Too much seperation is also not good and can break tailshaft housings.
 
Mancini's sells the Rancho's as well.

On your car they may not show a big benefit, on faster cars a good shock is REALLY important. You may be able to find a pre-purchased/used pair of rancho's. I've found them for anywhere from 75-120/pr. Try a wanted ad here and on sloparts... they like you there as well and seem to answer your want ads.

Good luck.
 
Yeah, I don't expect miracles on a 12 second car, but I have to get something so I might as well upgrade a bit. Besides, there might be something in store for my Duster in the next year or so. *whistles*

Oh, and I dunno why they like me so much on moparts...I am just a snot nose after all. haha!

Thanks...I think I will do an ad, and I'll check Mancini's as well, they are local to me anyway.
 
Locomotion said:
The harder a car launches, the stiffer the shock should be. That was probably the difference between the Mopar auto & stick shocks. A shock has to control the wind-up and un-winding of the leaf springs. Too soft and you get wheel-hop because there is not enough dampening. Too much seperation is also not good and can break tailshaft housings.
Click to expand...

I thought it was about launch severity. I've seen high hp stick shift Stock Eliminator cars that almost seem to have no rear suspension movement when bouncing through the pits. I'm figuring they have stiffer springs, and thus, stiffer shocks to control them.
 
I thought that's what I said - refering to shock extension. Heavier springs, like SS springs over OEM would also apply since OEM springs can wear out and/or bend.

I mentioned "seperation" because with all the gear, converter, HP, suspension, etc. advancements since when the Mopar books were published, I don't think that trying for too much of that type of vehicle reaction is necessary. But there are lots of variables and some exceptions will work that way. Just may not be the best way.
 
Hi Myron...seen your car in the magazines over the years....always impressive!!!...best of luck for the new season.
 
Thanks.
I sure miss Norwalk not being IHRA :( but did good in Baton Rouge recently.:)
 
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