Shop heater venting questions

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4spdragtop

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Hi all, I have a Mr Heater Big Maax 45k BTU. I have had this for a while and figured I should install the vent properly. I cant remember if these pieces were part of the furnace itself or this "b vent kit" bought as a kit seperately.
Either way Im confused as to how I connect the 36" length to the 3"-4" transition piece?
The 1st 2 pieces go together fine, but how does the 3-4" enlarger connect to the Selkirk B vent pipe? Is there a B vent type connector? This stuff aint cheap so I want to make sure I get the right piece.
Thanks
Steve

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Hi all, I have a Mr Heater Big Maax 45k BTU. I have had this for a while and figured I should install the vent properly. I cant remember if these pieces were part of the furnace itself or this "b vent kit" bought as a kit seperately.
Either way Im confused as to how I connect the 36" length to the 3"-4" transition piece?
The 1st 2 pieces go together fine, but how does the 3-4" enlarger connect to the Selkirk B vent pipe? Is there a B vent type connector? This stuff aint cheap so I want to make sure I get the right piece.
Thanks
Steve

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I`ve hung and hooked up a bunch of hanging/''called unit heaters'' , wall heater, ventless heater, built a wood stove, installed a wood stove in my house about 40 yrs. ago . From what I see in the pics , it looks like u got most everything u need w exception of an elbow ?
Looks like a hanging heater, of course u know the double wall is for going thru the roof where its closest to any combustible surface , and should be at least 1'' away from them on top of that. The reducer would be for a pipe change at the heater , not on up in the vent -------??
I wouldnt stick that vent straight out the side of the building either -----
 
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Thanks guys, I have several adjustable elbows, none fit. I have the proper wall thimble. The heater is a suspended unit.
Code now is 4" for horizontal venting.
Maybe it's me but you would think there would be a supplied connector of some sort?? Maybe I "misplaced" it....lol
Demonic, I checked that piece and looked at install instructions, doesnt show it connecting to furnace??
I have a 3-4" transition piece, but cant get the 4" end to join the 4"b vent
Horizontal venting is ok by code and by their instructions. Just need a 1/4" rise per foot.
Thanks for chiming in guys.
Plenty of B vent to single-wall adapters out there. I just googled this up...

Selkirk Flexi-Liner B-Vent Adapter for 4 inch Pipe
I`ve hung and hooked up a bunch of hanging/''called unit heaters'' , wall heater, ventless heater, built a wood stove, installed a wood stove in my house about 40 yrs. ago . From what I see in the pics , it looks like u got most everything u need w exception of an elbow ?
Looks like a hanging heater, of course u know the double wall is for going thru the roof where its closest to any combustible surface , and should be at least 1'' away from them on top of that. The reducer would be for a pipe change at the heater , not on up in the vent -------??
I wouldnt stick that vent straight out the side of the building either -----

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I wouldnt stick that vent straight out the side of the building either -----

That is actually ok, as it is a "power burner", as opposed to a natural draft type burner.
Follow the pitch and length of run specs in the literature. The 4" adapter didn't come as part of the kit? Oh boy.
Selkirk is usually found in commercial/industrial, vs a residential type application in my neck of the woods. I mean, you won't find a rep at Ace Hardware or Home Depot. But they do have a toll free number:

Selkirk
Customer Service
United States Toll Free: 800.992.8368
 
Steve in your first photo the transition appears to be a "female" end on the large end. "In my day" we would have just grabbed the hand crimpers and "fixed" that..............

Back then, and in the states, it was allowable to transition from single wall at the heater end into B vent just by inserting the C vent into the B vent and attaching/ securing with 3 screws, as there is no "latch" on C vent as there is on the B mating sections.

You say you have adjustable els? The male end of these should work into the B vent if that is what you want. You will still need to crimp the transition to "turn it male." Does that make it a TRANS-sition? LOL

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I agree Del, I sifted thru YouTube and saw a guy discussing the crimpers. $35 for 30 seconds of work lol.
Yeah right now getting a "face to face" to get help is difficult.
I do better face to face, as sure as **** I'll mess it up over the phone lol.
Headed to the shop to rummage for "missing" piece lol.
Thanks guys.
That is actually ok, as it is a "power burner", as opposed to a natural draft type burner.
Follow the pitch and length of run specs in the literature. The 4" adapter didn't come as part of the kit? Oh boy.
Selkirk is usually found in commercial/industrial, vs a residential type application in my neck of the woods. I mean, you won't find a rep at Ace Hardware or Home Depot. But they do have a toll free number:

Selkirk
Customer Service
United States Toll Free: 800.992.8368

Steve in your first photo the transition appears to be a "female" end on the large end. "In my day" we would have just grabbed the hand crimpers and "fixed" that..............

Back then, and in the states, it was allowable to transition from single wall at the heater end into B vent just by inserting the C vent into the B vent and attaching/ securing with 3 screws, as there is no "latch" on C vent as there is on the B mating sections.

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Good luck. Seems to me the venting options for that thing with horizontal vent are REALLY limited. "max length" geez.......

If you have trouble with it, you could elbow vertical outside the shop and construct some sheet metal brackets, go vertical a foot or two above the roof line. And yes, LOL you can buy rigid B vent elbows

"Trouble" would be indicated by burner dropout or tripping of the manual reset vent or spill switch(s)
 
Thanks Del. I went to "Friendly fires " a local business that does this stuff. Tech there said that you can rarely mix the stuff. They use ICC and my pieces are Selkirk. The amount of $$ they charge you would think it would be universal. What he told me I need is a "C-B" vent adapter. I'll take a look at Selkirk catalog and give them a call tomorrow.
Guy looked at manual for Big Maax and looked at the destructions and said they were correct for code, so it's only an adapter I need. It can go horizontal out the shop.
Good luck. Seems to me the venting options for that thing with horizontal vent are REALLY limited. "max length" geez.......

If you have trouble with it, you could elbow vertical outside the shop and construct some sheet metal brackets, go vertical a foot or two above the roof line. And yes, LOL you can buy rigid B vent elbows

"Trouble" would be indicated by burner dropout or tripping of the manual reset vent or spill switch(s)
 

Similar confusion with pellet stoves. Cant mix brands at all. The way they connect is different.
Good you are getting it figured out.
Burned almost 180 bags between house and shop this winter. A few left over for colder days. Curious to know cost to run it.
 
Yeah a buddy of mine has a pellet stove. Works good but he cobbled his venting lol, he was bitching about prices too lol.
Gas isnt hooked up to mine, I used it with propane and it went thru it pretty quick, but I hadn't finished insulating, and still havent lol. Propane was a pain logging 150 lb bottles.
Similar confusion with pellet stoves. Cant mix brands at all. The way they connect is different.
Good you are getting it figured out.
Burned almost 180 bags between house and shop this winter. A few left over for colder days. Curious to know cost to run it.
 
You can mix C vent (single wall) brands but not B vent. B vent is an engineered, proprietary product by each manufacturer. Yeh, don't ask me why there is not an SAE spec for the stuff, but that covers a LOT of ground. You and I 'member when HEADLIGHTS were "standardized." Now some models have multiple headlight options depending on trim. And they cost a fortune.
 
My son is working on his back garage, pulled drywall. Found 1 wall had no insulation at all,other 2 have 1/2 the cavity filled with used insulation. He now knows why it was so hard to heat.
I knew the guy that built it, master of half-assery.
 
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