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Michael Phillips

Michael Phillips

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I have unplugged my gas guage and my fuse is blowing, unplugged connector by drivers door and ruled out wiring toward back of car. Problem seems to be in dash area? Does anyone have a simple schematic of fuse block to gas guage, I'm sure it's tied together with something. Appreciate any help I can get.
 
Michael Phillips said:
I have unplugged my gas guage and my fuse is blowing, unplugged connector by drivers door and ruled out wiring toward back of car. Problem seems to be in dash area? Does anyone have a simple schematic of fuse block to gas guage, I'm sure it's tied together with something. Appreciate any help I can get.
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Welcome Mike. I am going to move this thread to the electrical forum. You might get more responses there.
 
What year?
Have you downloaded your cars factory service manual from mymopar.com.

They also have some schematics as well.

Go to classiccarwiring.com and buy a colored wiring diagram
 
There IS NO FUSE in the fuel gauge or any other gauge circuit are you sure you have a Mopar?
 
Welcome to the forum. There is a LOT of expertise here, and I guarantee you can get the help you will need. This is not nitpicking, I am trying to be helpful. I have seen hundreds, if not thousands of questions on this forum where the person did not give enough information for anybody to be able to help. Sometimes getting that info winds up being like pulling teeth. For instance, in your question, you did not state year, make and model. Which engine you have can sometimes make a difference too. Also, some info on when the fuse is blowing would help. And you need to be more specific on exactly which fuse is blowing. Although most of us agree that the left side is the driver's side, that can get confused. Also, when the fuse blows, what is still working, and what is not working? In short, the more information you give us the easier it is to help you.
Seriously, welcome to the forum, and good luck with your electrical problem. I am pretty good with auto electrics (no where near as good as @67Dart273 though), and I can tell you that a good electrical problem can be VERY irritating.
 
harrisonm said:
Welcome to the forum. There is a LOT of expertise here, and I guarantee you can get the help you will need. This is not nitpicking, I am trying to be helpful. I have seen hundreds, if not thousands of questions on this forum where the person did not give enough information for anybody to be able to help. Sometimes getting that info winds up being like pulling teeth. For instance, in your question, you did not state year, make and model. Which engine you have can sometimes make a difference too. Also, some info on when the fuse is blowing would help. And you need to be more specific on exactly which fuse is blowing. Although most of us agree that the left side is the driver's side, that can get confused. Also, when the fuse blows, what is still working, and what is not working? In short, the more information you give us the easier it is to help you.
Seriously, welcome to the forum, and good luck with your electrical problem. I am pretty good with auto electrics (no where near as good as @67Dart273 though), and I can tell you that a good electrical problem can be VERY irritating.
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No problem! It is a 73 Plymouth Duster with a 383. I just started looking at the gas gauge today. I am lost when it comes to this. I will look and get you guys a better scenario. I've been reading up on the voltage limiter to see if it could be bad and shorted to ground. Thank you for your input.
 
Through 1971 there were 2 switched hot wires going to all instrument panels. A blue with white tracer from ignition switch fed the instrument voltage regulator and the system voltage regulator so both regulators were on the same circuit. The other switched hot wire was black and fed park brake lamp and oil warning lamp. In 1972 Dodge deleted that blue with white tracer routed to instrument panel. The inst' voltage regulator is now on the same black wire as park brake lamp, oil warning lamp and maybe a seat belt warning lamp also. We might assume Plymouth is the same. Bottom line... you'll need factory wiring diagrams for your 73 model Plymouth.
A 3 amp fuse should be for the inst' lighting and only hot when light switch is pulled to park lamps. There is a way to install a replacement ignition switch wrong and blow this fuse. If the switch has been replaced and orange wire gets attached to a black wire... there is your problem. Good luck with it.
 
Michael Phillips said:
Its a 3a fuse and I believe it is the 2nd from the left side.
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Look at the box. Each slot was labelled. Also the owners manual usually has the fusebox info. That's the little book in the glovebox (if its still there)

I think one of things you are asking about is the location and bundling of the cables. Some shop manuals that, some do not. I think I've seen it '70 - '71 Plymouth. Often that has to be figured out by looking at the car. In general, there is a 'body' cable connection or two behind the driver side kickpanel.

First narrow what is shorting. Whether its the correct fuse for the circuit, etc.

You can download a Dodge '73 if not a Plymouth Shop manual from Mymopar.com reference section.
 
RedFish said:
Through 1971 there were 2 switched hot wires going to all instrument panels. A blue with white tracer from ignition switch fed the instrument voltage regulator and the system voltage regulator so both regulators were on the same circuit. The other switched hot wire was black and fed park brake lamp and oil warning lamp. In 1972 Dodge deleted that blue with white tracer routed to instrument panel. The inst' voltage regulator is now on the same black wire as park brake lamp, oil warning lamp and maybe a seat belt warning lamp also. We might assume Plymouth is the same. Bottom line... you'll need factory wiring diagrams for your 73 model Plymouth.
A 3 amp fuse should be for the inst' lighting and only hot when light switch is pulled to park lamps. There is a way to install a replacement ignition switch wrong and blow this fuse. If the switch has been replaced and orange wire gets attached to a black wire... there is your problem. Good luck with it.
Click to expand...
I have ordered a print and its the #6 fuse that is blowing. I don't have a manual but it's been ordered as well. I appreciate uour help.
 
Not sure if there is a Plymouth '73 there.
Have the Dodge '73 from there downloaded.
upload_2020-5-18_17-43-23.png


So as Redfish was telling us, there's several changes from previous years.

upload_2020-5-18_17-58-23.png


Fuse cavity 6.
G5 & J2B is the wire identification. G probably is for wires to or relating to Gages. J is key switched power. J2B is probably the second branch from the Run circuit(s).

20 DBL = 20 gage Dark Blue, & 12 DBL* = 12 gage Dark Blue with tracer (white stripe)

So when you go to the diagram look for G5 and follow it to all its connections.
My suggestion is to save the fuses, disconnect the battery and check for continuity to ground (short). Clip one lead of the tester onto the G5 fuse terminal, the other to a good body ground. If there is a short, then start disconnecting the different items until the culprit shows up.
Seat belt buzzer would be an early one to check.
@RedFish and others may have better ideas.
 
Mattax said:
Not sure if there is a Plymouth '73 there.
Have the Dodge '73 from there downloaded.
View attachment 1715530964

So as Redfish was telling us, there's several changes from previous years.

View attachment 1715530970

Fuse cavity 6.
G5 & J2B is the wire identification. G probably is for wires to or relating to Gages. J is key switched power. J2B is probably the second branch from the Run circuit(s).

20 DBL = 20 gage Dark Blue, & 12 DBL* = 12 gage Dark Blue with tracer (white stripe)

So when you go to the diagram look for G5 and follow it to all its connections.
My suggestion is to save the fuses, disconnect the battery and check for continuity to ground (short). Clip one lead of the tester onto the G5 fuse terminal, the other to a good body ground. If there is a short, then start disconnecting the different items until the culprit shows up.
Seat belt buzzer would be an early one to check.
@RedFish and others may have better ideas.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the great information. I'm hoping to get back at this in a couple day's. I'll be back in touch hopefully with the answer and not another question.
 
Hey everyone! New to the site so if this has been posted before I apologize.

I'm looking for a 1969 Cuda Owners Manual. I have found a service manual but wondering if anyone has a line on an owners manual.

Thanks!

Matt
 
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