side exit exhaust

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barbee6043

barbee6043

barbee 6043
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Back in the 80s early 90s I restored a few TAs and AARs. The reverse flow mufflers, hangs, tips were repoped even back then. I think Dale's Cuda Shop did the initial repop and stills carries it all.
I have a couple of F bodies, that are Volares that I want to do the side exhaust on, mainly because to do a true dual rear exit exhaust you need to move the gas tank over some, but it put the tail pipes awful close to the tank. That does not seem to cause anyone a problem, BUT......
I asked this on FEBO and got no response. (I admitted to being a drop in off FABO! LOL) Maybe NO ONE on there knows beans about the AAR??? Anyway, I wanted to know if anyone knows a source of inexpensive reverse flow mufflers,?? and for the tips to work they are connected to a curved pipe, making almost a semi circle to the tip. The repop AAR tips are maybe the best solution.
To use a regular muffler, it puts it under your seats! HOT!! no doubt. So the reverse flow puts the muffle back and the tip exits at the front of the rear wheels.
 
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I did not like the toturous bends in the AAR muffler, so I used a pair of purple hornies with just one 90 degree turn to the outside. The NASCAR look I wanted precluded the chrome tips so flat black was more appropriate in my case.
 
meathead66 said:
Accurate makes a nice set-up.
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Mention AAR cuda, TA challenger and the $$$$$$ flash, no matter accurate, year one, Dales cuda shop has been repoping th correct tips for decades. Other look alike without the thing inside a little cheaper. Stainless mufflers can be found a little cheaper than the OEM style aluminized, repop hangers are stupid high but I can fab mine, An F body 318 Mopar ain't NO AAR Cuda!!!!!! lol
 
You can use a more normal muffler with with Offset inlet and a center outlet under the backseat,then use a 180 or 2x90degree bends with appropriate radiuus to suit the spacelimitaions you haveto route the tubing forward between the mufflerbody and framerail,,then ad a fairly shortradius 135degree bend to go around the front of framerail out under the rockerpanel.

Hope that was written in a way that made some kind of sence.
Notice that following this approach works best if you fit your mufflers as high as possible under the rear seat(no it should not hit,leave adequate clearance just like with everything else) and you are also alitle limited on how big mufflerbody you can use but it works well.
 
The point with having the muffler sit as high as you can make it sit is that it gives you more room to work with different radiuses on the 180degree "tailpipe"if the tube can be run alitle under the muffler instead of having to be clocked right next to it to not hang excessivly low.
 
1Fast340 said:
The point with having the muffler sit as high as you can make it sit is that it gives you more room to work with different radiuses on the 180degree "tailpipe"if the tube can be run alitle under the muffler instead of having to be clocked right next to it to not hang excessivly low.
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I like your method, I want the mufflers not under the front seats and I don't want to invest a fortune in the reverse flow mufflers ($250) and the excellent AAR tips ( $275) for a 76 Volare 318 Roadrunner! Not sure where to find affordable of good tips. Looking at feebay, the descriptions are vague. I assume the cheaper tips are sorry chrome plated?, the more expensive one maybe stainless?, ..but I am getting on a path of action!!!!!
 
barbee6043 said:
I like your method, I want the mufflers not under the front seats and I don't want to invest a fortune in the reverse flow mufflers ($250) and the excellent AAR tips ( $275) for a 76 Volare 318 Roadrunner! Not sure where to find affordable of good tips. Looking at feebay, the descriptions are vague. I assume the cheaper tips are sorry chrome plated?, the more expensive one maybe stainless?, ..but I am getting on a path of action!!!!!
Click to expand...

The tips are harder for sure,but there used to be conical chrome tips available for a variety of tubesizes about 6 years ago so i bet they are available nowadays aswell,personaly i would probably have chosen a slant cut straight piece of polished stainless tubing for a tip,it should look ok if the cut is 45 degree with the mentioned 135degree bend around the front of the rear framerail to make the end of the pipe even with the side of the car and giving an oval look.
 
TA tips are 2 1/2 in and 3 1/2 in out, cut at 45 degree. Dales Cuda Shop has been repopng then for decades. High quality stainless. Maybe I can get just the tip with the curves pipe. Nice stuff but priced for the $50,000 TA and ARR E body cars!
What was on the car when I got it, was dual exhaust that went over the rear axle then turned over the rear leaf springs and went between the springs and trunk extensions. Works but.......
 
why not just put side pipes one?

they look great with the volare body kits

roadrunner_2.jpg
 
barbee6043 said:
I just want the simple exhaust exit in front of rear wheels, just me. Love your car, white is bout my favorite color.
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No problem, just think along with you
And that runner isn't mine, just a quick Google result to show what I was talking about
 
I was looking at Jeg's cat. this morning, WOW! the price of mandrel bent 90 ad 180 degree 2 /1/2 in pipe. I have access to a local exh shop but like most of them, he can not do a mandrel bend. No doubt this needs to not be pinched in those hard turns. Most F body guys will be the as tank over run tail pipes between tank and frame. Seems like pretty close to the gas tank to me!!???
 
Keep in mind by the time exhaust gasses reach the tail pipe back at the fuel tank they have cooled off considerably. You can verify this with the cheap laser pointed pistol thermometers, exhaust manifolds can run 500 or 600 degrees and tailpipes lukewarm in comparison.
 
dibbons said:
Keep in mind by the time exhaust gasses reach the tail pipe back at the fuel tank they have cooled off considerably. You can verify this with the cheap laser pointed pistol thermometers, exhaust manifolds can run 500 or 600 degrees and tailpipes lukewarm in comparison.
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You are no doubt correct,
I had 5-6 AAR cudas and TA Challengers back in the 80-s early 90's. Neat cars for SB cars. I always loved them I have had the notion of a side exit exh system for other models for years. This F body runner in NOT any real collectable car, so making this hotrod change to it does not bother me at all. If someone buys it one day, they could change it back.
 
barbee6043 said:
I like your method, I want the mufflers not under the front seats and I don't want to invest a fortune in the reverse flow mufflers ($250) and the excellent AAR tips ( $275) for a 76 Volare 318 Roadrunner! Not sure where to find affordable of good tips. Looking at feebay, the descriptions are vague. I assume the cheaper tips are sorry chrome plated?, the more expensive one maybe stainless?, ..but I am getting on a path of action!!!!!
Click to expand...
barbee6043 said:
Back in the 80s early 90s I restored a few TAs and AARs. The reverse flow mufflers, hangs, tips were repoped even back then. I think Dale's Cuda Shop did the initial repop and stills carries it all.
I have a couple of F bodies, that are Volares that I want to do the side exhaust on, mainly because to do a true dual rear exit exhaust you need to move the gas tank over some, but it put the tail pipes awful close to the tank. That does not seem to cause anyone a problem, BUT......
I asked this on FEBO and got no response. (I admitted to being a drop in off FABO! LOL) Maybe NO ONE on there knows beans about the AAR??? Anyway, I wanted to know if anyone knows a source of inexpensive reverse flow mufflers,?? and for the tips to work they are connected to a curved pipe, making almost a semi circle to the tip. The repop AAR tips are maybe the best solution.
To use a regular muffler, it puts it under your seats! HOT!! no doubt. So the reverse flow puts the muffle back and the tip exits at the front of the rear wheels.
Click to expand...
jos51700 said:
Dynomax Super Turbo Mufflers 17675
Edit: went back to check price....disco'd.

$140ish
SpinTech Sportsman Splitcase Muffler
Looks like this is the Mustang crowd's overwhelming choice.

$130ish
Flowmaster 80 Series Crossflow Mufflers 842580

If it was me, I'd go to the smallest, greasiest, sootiest exhaust shop in town, and ask them. FWIW, 'inexpensive' is a relative term.
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Hey Barbee, jos51700, I re-did the search thinking that I had just seen the Dynomax mufflers the other day and did come up with a it and a few others at Summit racing. None are cheap as you didn’t want to spend a lot. But.... Here’s what I found @ 2-1/2 pipe size;

Dynomax
Dynomax Super Turbo Mufflers 17676
Another Flowmaster, Mo-money
Flowmaster 80 Series Crossflow Mufflers 52580
Pypes, sold as a pair;
Pypes Violator Mufflers MVV50S
Magnaflow:
MagnaFlow Performance Mufflers 14210

From these it’s just two 90* bent pipes and tips. Going via a regular muffler and two U and two 45* or two 90* pipes for the exit might be cheaper by getting a local exhaust shop set of pipes but I still think the mufflers above and two 90* pipes would be easier. Oh! The muffler hangers aren’t going to be cheap if you do the stock type AAR style hangers. But you can be inventive right?

All in all, your call but I’d like to see pictured results when you get there.
 
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rumblefish360 said:
Hey Barbee, jos51700, I re-did the search thinking that I had just seen the Dynomax mufflers the other day and did come up with a it and a few others at Summit racing. None are cheap as you didn’t want to spend a lot. But.... Here’s what I found @ 2-1/2 pipe size;

Dynomax
Dynomax Super Turbo Mufflers 17676
Another Flowmaster, Mo-money
Flowmaster 80 Series Crossflow Mufflers 52580
Pypes, sold as a pair;
Pypes Violator Mufflers MVV50S
Magnaflow:
MagnaFlow Performance Mufflers 14210

From these it’s just two 90* bent pipes and tips. Going via a regular muffler and two U and two 45* or two 90* pipes for the exit might be cheaper by getting a local exhaust shop set of pipes but I still think the mufflers above and two 90* pipes would be easier. Oh! The muffler hangers aren’t going to be cheap if you do the stock type AAR style hangers. But you can be inventive right?

All in all, your call but I’d like to see pictured results when you get there.
Click to expand...

I think those Dynamax would be good enough, cheap enough, and yes I can fab the hangers to hold up the rear of the mufflers and the hangers for the tips! I am just about finished fabbing and welding the rear lower qtr. patches and other smaller spots on this odd ball 76 runner!. These F bodies lend themselves pretty well to making these "token" hotrod changes. The 360 F body ( along with the Lil Red Express) was the fastest production US car back then would you believe! Faster than the Corvette. This runner is just a smogger 318!!!! lol But it will look and sound cool! lol aagain!
A sheet of 18 ga mild steel plate costs me $60 other day. That should be fine for the loop to hold up the muffler, and I will find something to hold the tips.
 
barbee6043 said:
I think those Dynamax would be good enough, cheap enough, and yes I can fab the hangers to hold up the rear of the mufflers and the hangers for the tips! I am just about finished fabbing and welding the rear lower qtr. patches and other smaller spots on this odd ball 76 runner!. These F bodies lend themselves pretty well to making these "token" hotrod changes. The 360 F body ( along with the Lil Red Express) was the fastest production US car back then would you believe! Faster than the Corvette. This runner is just a smogger 318!!!! lol But it will look and sound cool! lol aagain!
A sheet of 18 ga mild steel plate costs me $60 other day. That should be fine for the loop to hold up the muffler, and I will find something to hold the tips.
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Were you able to get the exhaust put on?
 
75slant6 said:
Were you able to get the exhaust put on?
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I never did spend the $ for the side exhaust. I took what was already on the Volare RR and cut and added turn downs after the rear axle. It will get the rest of body work/paint then I will do the side exhaust..
I had several TA/AAR cars and I am familiar with their exhaust. The E body has a flater lower pat of the rocker, but it is doable with the Volare, or Duster, what ever. Cheapest way is a muffler in and out of front, AAR style bracket, and buying some decent tip deals for the exit.
 
I think it was the Hotchkis Challenger, they had Flowmaster‘s with the original exit welded closed, and holes with new stubs welded to the sides.
Come out the front of the side with a 45 bend & 45 cut on the end of your pipe, done!
 
Most "turbo" style mufflers are not only 180, but are 360 degrees of potential direction change for the gasses. The "U-turn" should not make any difference as the hump over the axle is the same thing...except double! 90+180+90.
landing_st_main.jpg
 
he AAR cuda of 1970 hd mufs that the pipes came in and out the front side, then had a curved pipe that went to the tip. There are repops of this muf that are expensive but generic types came be found decent cheap like from Summit. The generic tips can be found without going to Feebay for crap, or paying big $$ for a repop AAR tip.
 
dusted said:
They usually do the best job!!!!
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For those of u that are worried about muffler heat, have u thot about wrapping them ? I built my own 3 1/2" low restriction mufflers and pipes dumped in front of the rear axle, had some old fiberglass wrap off of the used headers I bought. I wrapped the entire exhaust from the flanges back , no noticeable heat . I do have new stock carpeting tho.
I have often thot of buying some more 3 1/2" exh. pipe and splitting it to make nascar type exits, and turning them out like the AR cars. Afraid it would be putting the already loud exh. notes too much in ur face. The noise isn`t that bad inside the car, but is really loud to passing cars , or on a bridge.
 
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