Signal issues

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BOXHEADgumby

BOXHEADgumby

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I’ve been searching for turn signal issues like mine and I haven’t seen one.

has anyone who’s swapped their stock instrument cluster out for a year one set up with new auto meter gauges had their signals stop working?

I swapped mine and since then my signals only go solid, the same for the hazards. They worked prior to the cluster swap.

I see on the my mopar diagram that the indicators go through the circle pin connector , do they have any effect on the signal loop? That’s my assumption is that something there is my issue or I just made a gremlin come out of hiding while moving stuff around.
 
BOXHEADgumby said:
the indicators go through the circle pin connector , do they have any effect on the signal loop? .
Click to expand...

What is a "circle pin?" You talking about the cluster PC board connector. "Signal loop?"

What does or does not work? Do the hazards work? Do the signals themselves.....the ones at front and rear---do they actually work or not work, or are you talking about the cluster indicators alone?

IF IT IS just the cluster indicators, it may be that the cluster PC board is not seeing a ground. Run a separate wire from the cluster and bolt it to the dash frame or steering column support bracket
 
67Dart273 said:
What is a "circle pin?" You talking about the cluster PC board connector. "Signal loop?"

What does or does not work? Do the hazards work? Do the signals themselves.....the ones at front and rear---do they actually work or not work, or are you talking about the cluster indicators alone?

IF IT IS just the cluster indicators, it may be that the cluster PC board is not seeing a ground. Run a separate wire from the cluster and bolt it to the dash frame or steering column support bracket
Click to expand...

the signals front and rear will get brighter and not flash the same happens with the hazards, and yes the pc board connector that was the best description I had for that part, and by loop I am assuming the signals would send signal to the indicator, the indicator has two wires coming in for each so I assumed they completed a loop of sorts to finish the circuit.

also just realized I didn’t even say what year or model sorry it’s been a long day. it is a 74 duster.
 
I cannot imagine what in the cluster would cause this. It's not a "loop." It's a "branch. All lights are--or should be--grounded to return to battery negative. THAT could be an issue.

The TS switch has several "in's and out's"

IN is full time hazard flasher, that is full time battery feeds the hazard flasher (fused) and that power feeds into the TS switch

IN is switched brake lamp power from the brake light switch, also comes from a full time battery source

IN is turn flasher power which comes through the ignition switch--fused--through the flasher --and into the switch

OUT is left front, and branches off to feed the left cluster indicator
OUT is right front and branches off to feed the indicator

OUT is right rear which also is stop
OUT is left rear which also is stop

So go through it all one at a time. Test stop lamps and make sure they work properly. Test them with tail lamps on and off both, and look for abnormalties, which would indicate a ground problem

Then activate hazard. Locate the hazard flasher, make certain it is getting battery power, that is, actually check the voltage, and make sure voltage is not low. Compare to battery reading. With flashers activated, turn on park lamps and recheck, look again for odd looking lamps, again looking for ground problems

If no joy, try swapping flashers between TS and hazard, or a new one.

Then pull all 4 bulbs, check them for problems such as internal shorts between filaments, make sure they are the correct bulbs, and that they are indexed properly in the sockets. Damaged socket insulators can turn in the sockets and screw up the way the bulbs contact

I would concentrate on hazard first, get them working and eliminate that as a problem

IF YOU HAVE not wiring diagram, you can download them at MyMopar. The latest free service manual there is 73, which is some different than 74, but TS wiring might be "close enough."

MyMopar - Mopar Forums & Information - MyMopar Tools/Reference
 
Did ALL lights work prior to changing the dash?
 
In many cases, when a bulb is burned out, the signals come on but there isn't enough current draw to operate the flasher. I would think that a model that has fender mounted signals would have enough draw to operate the flasher even if the indicator bulbs didn't have a ground or were changed to LED, whatever. I dont know for sure. I know the original turn indicators, illumination bulbs, and high beam indicator, used the same chassis ground path. Through board to housing mounting screws and panel to dash mounting screws. Bottom line, you may be missing a ground or you may need the type flashers used with LEDs.
 
Did you change the bulbs to LED's?
Change the flasher to electronic?
If so, you may need to reverse the wires on the flasher plugs. It has to do with proper polarity fo rthe LED's.
This solved the same issue on my '64 Valiant when I switched to LED's, no 4 way involved though.
 
BobW said:
Did you change the bulbs to LED's?
Change the flasher to electronic?
If so, you may need to reverse the wires on the flasher plugs. It has to do with proper polarity fo rthe LED's.
This solved the same issue on my '64 Valiant when I switched to LED's, no 4 way involved though.
Click to expand...

looks like that was it !! I had driven myself bonkers checking grounds and cleaning sockets trying to sort it out. I reckon the LED indicators were just enough to not make them trip. I’ve since swapped everything over to LED with continued success
 
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