Single Wire Alt setup to 65 Barracuda Harness

[MonkeyMadness]

Ok so last weekend I scored a fresh magnum 5.9 out of a 1999 durango. After going through it and building it to my needs. I plan on dropping it into my 65 barracuda as the 318 lump in it now is not stock. I also have plans to mount a Whipple setup I have been holding onto, which means I will be retaining the serpentine belt as well as the Alternator.
My question is how do I go about splicing it in to the harness with out Hacking it!
I know most single wire alts you simply run the hot+ charge wire to the hot+ side of the starter.
What do I have to do to the harness to make it work.

Also I have ordered (with the understanding it may take the better part of a year to get)
A new under dash, and Motor / frontend harness from "yearone" h&m or M&H what ever..

Any and all help is much appreciated
thnaks
j

 

[67Dart273]

Mopars do not come with "one wire" alternators. The brushes are set up just like any other 70/ later Mopar....two brush connections, both isolated from ground, known properly as "isolated field"

Before 1970, the only difference was that one field terminal was grounded, and the regulator connected to the remaining one. So you are all set..........just ground one brush, and hook your green regulator wire to the remaining brush terminal. Big black charge wire hooks up as per normal to the output.

EDIT.......You might be confusing terms. "single wire" does not mean output plus one field. "Single wire" or "One wire" means that the regulator is built in, and excites internally. There is actually only 'one wire'----the output wire---which connects. You can put these on "anything." I don't care for them on most vehicles for a number of reasons.

1....Voltage sense is not accurate under heavy loads due to charging line voltage drop

2.....With a trunk mount battery it makes disconnect argumentative, as the ignition will "run on" with battery disconnect

3....Some must be "revved" to get the thing to kick in.

 

[MonkeyMadness]

No you must be right, I glanced at the alt while the motor was in the bed of my truck and I didn't see any other wires hooked up other than the heavy charge wire+.

So when I hook the Alt up after install it just hooks up and the stock one would? do I have to remove the external regulator or keep it in as well?

again thanks for you info and or comments

 

[67Dart273]

Keep the 65 regulator or upgrade to a 70/ later regulator.

69/ earlier regulator (yours originally) ground either field terminal and hook the remaining up to your original green field wire

70/ later, Hook one field up to your green field wire, now wired into the 70 regulator, and hook the second field to key/ switched "ignition run" IE same point as the IGN terminal on the old regulator.

 

[Rustedwrench]

Ok so last weekend I scored a fresh magnum 5.9 out of a 1999 durango. After going through it and building it to my needs. I plan on dropping it into my 65 barracuda as the 318 lump in it now is not stock. I also have plans to mount a Whipple setup I have been holding onto, which means I will be retaining the serpentine belt as well as the Alternator.
My question is how do I go about splicing it in to the harness with out Hacking it!
I know most single wire alts you simply run the hot+ charge wire to the hot+ side of the starter.
What do I have to do to the harness to make it work.

Also I have ordered (with the understanding it may take the better part of a year to get)
A new under dash, and Motor / frontend harness from "yearone" h&m or M&H what ever..

Any and all help is much appreciated
thnaks
j

I assume you are talking about using the alternator now on the donor engine. You need to look closely at the back of the alternator. If there is another connector socket with 2 or 3 terminals it is not going to be plug and play. You need to determine how the alternator was wired in the donor vehicle. Later model Mopar alternators were regulated by the Powertrain Control Module but I don't know when that started nor on what models.

If, as I suspect, it has a two pin connector socket on the back you would need to source a pigtail to plug into the alternator for the field circuit. Originally, one pin would have been supplied system voltage + from the ASD relay or the PCM. The other pin would have been the ground control for the voltage regulator function from the PCM. If that is the case you can use the original voltage regulator, I suppose, but it depends on your current regulator. I would use the later electronic regulator. Easy. Well, easy for me to say, sitting here on my butt.

 

[MonkeyMadness]

Yea I got to play with it this weekend. It has a two wire plug that was unplugged from the harness.
I took the harness off and clipped the pigtail and left it in the alt plug.
I'm not looking to do a crazy setup I just want it to work with my system. So I'll probably leave the regulator if that's possible.
If i have read the posts right above that the Efi ecu regulates the charge and it is not internal to the alt, then I should be able to run it just as the stock (for this yr and model) alt was, as long as I get the wires right when grafting in the pigtail....

Right???? :-D

 

[Syleng1]

Monkey Madness - I did a similar set up a few years back and I took the alternator to my local Alternator and starter guy and explained what I wanted to happen; A newer alternator in an older vehicle. He changed the voltage regulator in the back of the newer alternator to a diff rent style that charged and regulated internally and there was only the larger B+ wire off the back. The other plug was filled with a dummy plug to keep dirt and debris out. Basically the engine reved and it "excited" the regulator and caused it to start to charge. It was a $50.00 repair and worked great on my plow truck for years. He was even able to "adjust" the regulator for a higher voltage for the plowing needs. I believed he adjusted it from 14.2vdc to 15.00vdc and in my old Dodge boy did it make a difference in the headlights. The alternator was a 120amp out put alternator I took form a new truck. After pulley changes and a few bracket mods.
Basically these internal were not parts I could buy locally. Made life a whole lot better for plowing and battery recharge. That might be a bit extreme for your application but the moral of the story is - where there is a will (and brains) there is a way. Let me add that the alternator only charge like 50amps at idle and the up and down of the engine speed on the older Chrysler alternators could not keep up with the back and forth of plowing and running the hydraulic pumps. The whole reason for the 15vdc was to stabilize the output a bit better at the lower engine speeds but did however kill bulbs faster due to running them at the end of their voltage limits.
Good luck,
Joe