Slant 6 timing chain lubrication?

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Dne007

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Hi, after I had re-installed my timing cover, I started wondering how the timing chain gets lubrication? There's a shiny new plug installed just above the cam sprocket by the machine shop, is that supposed to be there?
THanks!
dne'

Timing chain stuffb.jpg


cam stuff.jpg


degree final.jpg
 
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Fantastic choice for a timing set! Most people cringe when you recommend the Rollmaster set because of the price. They are worth every penny. Here's the trick to get pressurized oiling right on the timing set. See the pipe plug I circled in red? Drill a .040" hole right through the center. That's the main oil passage. It will blast oil right on the timing set. I wouldn't go any bigger than about .040". That way, there won't be an appreciable pressure loss, but you will SOAK the timing set and that's what you want. I'm doing both the main bearing chamfer trick and drilling the plug on mine.

SLANT TIMING OILING.jpg
 
Thank you MV8 and Rusty! :thumbsup: Looks like I have my work cut out~ ok, remove the crank, do the chamfer thing, drill the hole and all should be good! I'll post pics as I go, not sure if I'll get to it today, but I do need to order some tiny drill bits;)
:lol:
 
Thank you MV8 and Rusty! :thumbsup: Looks like I have my work cut out~ ok, remove the crank, do the chamfer thing, drill the hole and all should be good! I'll post pics as I go, not sure if I'll get to it today, but I do need to order some tiny drill bits;)
:lol:
Did you see clearly how to do the bearing chamfer? All you have to do is knock that 90 degree corner off the bearing from the outside to the oil groove, so it will squirt oil out along the chamfer and onto the timing chain. You do it to the upper bearing half that's in the engine, on the same side as the bearing lock tang. Nuthin to it.
 
I have never seen an aftermarket main bearing with the chamfer. I have only seen it on OEM bearing sets, and the factory service manual specifies this. I always do the chamfer
Don't forget to install the oil slinger on the crank. With the extra oil on the chain, you don't want to flood the front seal.
 
Fantastic choice for a timing set! Most people cringe when you recommend the Rollmaster set because of the price. They are worth every penny. Here's the trick to get pressurized oiling right on the timing set. See the pipe plug I circled in red? Drill a .040" hole right through the center. That's the main oil passage. It will blast oil right on the timing set. I wouldn't go any bigger than about .040". That way, there won't be an appreciable pressure loss, but you will SOAK the timing set and that's what you want. I'm doing both the main bearing chamfer trick and drilling the plug on mine.

View attachment 1716320064
I did the same with my 273 although I drilled into a Welch plug (soft plug) and it was a 1/16". Probably too big but no issues, and that .040 drill would be much better.
 
Wow, great replies! I took single pic of the front main bearing, if someone could just say yeah or nay?

This first pic is the main bearings that was in it: It was a running engine
main bearings.jpg


1) do I chamfer both these spots
main bearingsc.jpg


or 2) just one spot?
main bearingsb.jpg


This is just a pic without spots
main bearingsa.jpg


IF I go lightly, would this dremmel bit be ok if I go very lightly?
main bearingsd.jpg


Thanks to all!!!
 
Both spots to take the corner off. That bit would work though I'd consider a straight bit diagonal to the corner to dress it down.
 
Both spots to take the corner off. That bit would work though I'd consider a straight bit diagonal to the corner to dress it down.
Very fine Scotch Brite. #7447 or #7448 in clean solvent.
 
Both spots. I just use a file by hand. Don't like using a dremmel. Too easy to slip and ruin the bearing. If you look in the factory service manual, there is a picture of the bearing with the champher.
 
Just practicing on an old main bearing to get the idea. I don't see how a file would even cut this material. My dremmel bits are very fine and can work down in grit to eventually polish. Is this acceptable? The bearings which were in the car where not champhered at all and had quite a few miles on them. I don't see how oil ever made it to the timing chain. :realcrazy:

champher.jpg
 
I have never seen an aftermarket main bearing with the chamfer. I have only seen it on OEM bearing sets, and the factory service manual specifies this. I always do the chamfer
Don't forget to install the oil slinger on the crank. With the extra oil on the chain, you don't want to flood the front seal.
When did they start doing it? I just tore down a 66 225 today with original bearings and the front one was not chamfered. 66 date code bearings, too.
 
Just practicing on an old main bearing to get the idea. I don't see how a file would even cut this material. My dremmel bits are very fine and can work down in grit to eventually polish. Is this acceptable? The bearings which were in the car where not champhered at all and had quite a few miles on them. I don't see how oil ever made it to the timing chain. :realcrazy:

View attachment 1716320215
I think I would chamfer it just "a bit" more, but you certainly have the idea! You especially want to "open up" the chamfer to the oil groove in the bearing pretty good.
 
When did they start doing it? I just tore down a 66 225 today with original bearings and the front one was not chamfered. 66 date code bearings, too.
As far as I know, all the OEM bearings had the champhor. From day one on. All the factory service manuals I have read (not all that were published) mentioned about the bearing. The factory parts book, lists the #1 main as a different part number from the # 2 & 4. The aftermarket parts listing, lists the #1,2,and4 as the same part number.
The factory champhor is not very large, try looking at it with a magnifier.
The picture DNE007 posted shows WAY too much champhor
 
As far as I know, all the OEM bearings had the champhor. From day one on. All the factory service manuals I have read (not all that were published) mentioned about the bearing. The factory parts book, lists the #1 main as a different part number from the # 2 & 4. The aftermarket parts listing, lists the #1,2,and4 as the same part number.
The factory champhor is not very large, try looking at it with a magnifier.
The picture DNE007 posted shows WAY too much champhor
I couldn't see where her chamfer intersected with the bearing groove. But I have a set of original bearings here with no chamfer whatsoever. I have a good magnifying glass, too.
 
There is going to be some oil spray with no mods. This would be a cooling improvement for the timing set. I would just take the corner off (same angle you used), and take off no more than .040" from the corner (compare to unmodded depth, corner to notch). You can check with a straight edge across the rear side corner and a feller gauge or use the end of a dial caliper or depth micrometer). Want to make the most of what oil is available to go around everywhere from a standard pump (that the drive can handle reliably/long term).
 
Just practicing on an old main bearing to get the idea. I don't see how a file would even cut this material. My dremmel bits are very fine and can work down in grit to eventually polish. Is this acceptable? The bearings which were in the car where not champhered at all and had quite a few miles on them. I don't see how oil ever made it to the timing chain. :realcrazy:

View attachment 1716320215
If You're doing the oil hole in the gallery plug on top of the chamfer, You'll be fine, that chamfer doesn't need to be any deeper than to make the notch disappear. If You've got good oil pressure there will be plenty of oil, & the edge of the bearing shells are under a crush load, if the edge is too thin it will deform & lose that, leaving ~1/2 the shell w/o the proper loading.
I used a steel gear link-belt style on My K6, & made no mods to bearings or plug, & pounded the poop out of it for 10's of thousands of miles over ~8yrs......it's still tight sitting on the engine stand now.
For a roller, even tho' there's 'less friction', it does not retain oil like a link-belt, if You pour oil on the inside of a link-belt it will well-up & spill over the sides quickly, a roller lets the oil pass right through......so it takes some extra to ensure it has sufficient lube.
 
These are all great responses, advice, :thankyou: etc. I'm thinking to just put the minimal champher (not like I did earlier) and the gallery plug and call it a day. I'm just surprised there are no pictures of bearing with the chamfor.
dne' ;)
 
Well, it's done, I may not even drill the hole in the oil plug unless I can be convinced otherwise;)

passenger side
oil stuffd.jpg


oil stuffc.jpg


oil stuffb.jpg

the hole
oil stuffa.jpg


oil stuff.jpg
 
There is going to be some oil spray with no mods. This would be a cooling improvement for the timing set. I would just take the corner off (same angle you used), and take off no more than .040" from the corner (compare to unmodded depth, corner to notch). You can check with a straight edge across the rear side corner and a feller gauge or use the end of a dial caliper or depth micrometer). Want to make the most of what oil is available to go around everywhere from a standard pump (that the drive can handle reliably/long term).
There will be zero "oil spray". "Spray" is indicative of pressure and there's zero pressure on the timing set without the chamfered front main bearing or the drilled main oil passage plug, so the more accurate term to us would be splash oiling and it's danged poor splash at that. I've run engines before with the timing cover off for diagnostic purposes in the past. Although I've never done it on a slant 6, I've done on it Chevy, Ford and Mopar V8 engines. Each time, there was so little oil splash, there was almost no mess to clean up. It would surprise you.
 
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