Trevor B
Well-Known Member
Doug Dutra recommended to me the Erson RV 15-295 (reverse grind) for my 225 build. Erson sent it to me with a set of lifters for like $160, got it in about a week. John at Erson: 1-800-641-7920
Slant six builders...Lets talk Cams
- Thread starter Princess Valiant
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Doug Dutra recommended to me the Erson RV 15-295 (reverse grind) for my 225 build. Erson sent it to me with a set of lifters for like $160, got it in about a week. John at Erson: 1-800-641-7920
kowalski440
Well-Known Member
Other way around. Same bore, more stroke.
nm9stheham
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the info on the issue on those Comp cams; I recalled it was something peculiar on those cams. It seems wise to avoid Comp for the /6.
Mikk
New Member
Halfafish, i'm very interested about that camshaft you ordered from OCG. I'm building a mild 225, 198 rods, 2.2 turbo pistons, Offy intake, Holley 390, mild porting of the head, compression in the 9's. In other words very similar to what you built. Like you, I'm building a driver but I want a bit more "go" but it still has to be streetable. Can you tell me how that cam worked out? It sounds like a good grind, given that Slants are more restricted on the intake rather than exhaust side.
I'm worried the 108 LSA might make for too rough an idle?
Any info on idle, power band, anything would be much appreciated!
Well, a funny thing happened on the way to the new motor. I found a 69 Dart which got the nod as the primary project, since the Valiant was and is in good running order. Then, I bought a 82 D150 that needed a timing chain - haha. It needed a full rebuild and it's taken months when I expected it to take weeks. The Dart is sitting outside, the truck is hogging the shop, and the Valiant drives wherever I want with the original engine. I suspect the new slant will be next winter's project.
Mikk
New Member
Dang, that cam sounds really interesting; I'm almost ready to order one just like it! Your story is familiar, though: I have an Erson RV10 camshaft I bought back in 2008. I'm finally getting the the project now (1966 Barracuda), but another car recently came my way: a 1960 Valiant. So now I'm building two engines, a "good" one for the Barracuda and a simple "driver" 225 to replace the 170 in the Valiant to give it more oomph. So do I use the Erson cam for the "good" engine and put a milder cam in the "driver", or put the Erson in the "driver" and get a hotter cam for the Barracuda? Decisions, decisions.....Well, a funny thing happened on the way to the new motor. I found a 69 Dart which got the nod as the primary project, since the Valiant was and is in good running order. Then, I bought a 82 D150 that needed a timing chain - haha. It needed a full rebuild and it's taken months when I expected it to take weeks. The Dart is sitting outside, the truck is hogging the shop, and the Valiant drives wherever I want with the original engine. I suspect the new slant will be next winter's project.
I suspect my cam will be good for you. It was dialed in for me by an extremely knowledgeable and and experienced slant guy I met off .org who is local to me. I have no concern following his advice, he's wicked smart.
TheGrateRonzini
Well-Known Member
I just ordered a comp set with a 112 or 110 ctrline for a similar set up. 225FI, CT26 turbo. I wont be able to tell you how it works until next week some time. Hughes has a few also I was pondering
huh then why did it cost me 2-1/2 times the price for the 260H I bought from COMP a few years ago for my son's 360? being it's a Mopar and not a damn Chevy/Ford that made an off-the-shelf cam into a "custom" grind... They have the common cams for Chevy/Ford already to go at only $25 over the standard fare...
I have the packing slip from 3/3/15... no prices on the packing slip but it has a separate callout for "LABOR CHARGE; TO NITRIDE CAMSHAFT" as I remember a standard COMP 260H for a smallblock was ~$160. we paid almost $400 for that exact cam, only nitrided/
Why would they have not told me to save my money, they come that way as standard issue?
I have a cam at Oregon as we speak, an original stock cam from a '74 225, being converted into an Oregon #819. waiting anyday now for a phone call from them with a total bill... I had my cam reground, ordered a set of new (not reground) lifters, and a set of SI oversize valves. I called them today for an update, the guy who answered (not Ken, I have talked to him a couple of times recently) said my cam is done, they have the lifters, and he had to check on the status of my O/S valves/
said they could be in the house already but he had to check and he'd let me know....
On a related note, I hope to have those valves in hand before next weekend (about 10 days from now) as I was hoping to hand my home ported head off for completion when I go to Indy for the swap meet....
As inexpensively and expertly as Oregon grinds camshafts, there's really no excuse not to go with one of their grinds for a slant six. They grind off factory cores they have, or you send. That way, you have the expertise of Ken and Bill, plus you don't have any of the worries of the Comp gear being too hard. Seems like a no brainer.
I don't know anything about the Erson cores or where they come from, but I've not heard anything bad happening with them.
I do hope with all the good advice here, @Princess Valiant did not choose a Comp grind. Besides the gear problems, they are out and out slack *** grinds that suck hind tit. Just my personal opinion.
That said, I've always wanted to see what a solid version of the 340 grind would do in a slant six. It couldn't be ground on the factory 114 LSA, because the slant six cores are ground on a 109 LSA and they cannot move the LSA "that much" but they could get it on a 110 or a 108. I recommend sticking with low (under .500) lift to remain reliable, not require stupid high spring pressure, or expensive machining on the heads and expensive valve sprAngs.
Again, all just personal opinion.
I don't know anything about the Erson cores or where they come from, but I've not heard anything bad happening with them.
I do hope with all the good advice here, @Princess Valiant did not choose a Comp grind. Besides the gear problems, they are out and out slack *** grinds that suck hind tit. Just my personal opinion.
That said, I've always wanted to see what a solid version of the 340 grind would do in a slant six. It couldn't be ground on the factory 114 LSA, because the slant six cores are ground on a 109 LSA and they cannot move the LSA "that much" but they could get it on a 110 or a 108. I recommend sticking with low (under .500) lift to remain reliable, not require stupid high spring pressure, or expensive machining on the heads and expensive valve sprAngs.
Again, all just personal opinion.
Princess Valiant
A.K.A. Rainy Day Auto
Old *** thread brought up. What I ended up doing was buying a performance cam from another member @65 Dartman I don't remember the numbers exactly but he was planning a slant build very similar to mine but decided to go v8 for some reason and sold all the slant stuff.
I think the only difference is he had a cam spec for an automatic. I'm thinking mine being a manual gives a bit more flexibility.
I hope so
That was my Oregon regrind. I don't remember which one it was, either, but it was a goodun.
Princess Valiant
A.K.A. Rainy Day Auto
You're saying you sold that cam to 65 dartman??
yes Ma’mam, you did buy that cam from me. At the time the motor was going in a 65 Dart with a 4 speed. It was later I decided to go with an automatic. And then my youngest son told me you gotta go with a V8; no slants please please please! So the build changed direction again.
No, I either sent my core (or ordered directly) from Oregon.
I think so if I remember right.
Oh ok. My bad. I musta sold mine to somebody else then. It HAS been a while.
This thread reminds me.
I gotta call oregon cams and see where mine is.
Earlier this week they said my cam was done, they have my new lifters in hand, but they were waiting on my oversized SI valves to get there to send back my way. I told them that I was wanting at least the valves by next week, as long have 2 heads being handed off for completion, after I ported them here at home (and hopefully not to the point of ruination I might add)
I gotta call oregon cams and see where mine is.
Earlier this week they said my cam was done, they have my new lifters in hand, but they were waiting on my oversized SI valves to get there to send back my way. I told them that I was wanting at least the valves by next week, as long have 2 heads being handed off for completion, after I ported them here at home (and hopefully not to the point of ruination I might add)
SI musta made some more cause the last I knew they didn't have any and didn't know when they were gettin um.
Ooh don't tell me that.
When I talked to them to make sure my cam made it there they called me back the next day and verified that I want the OS ones, because he saw the same thing as I did on the SI website, they apparently have the std and OS part numbers reversed either in their system or on the site because the guy at Oregon came up with the same number as I did for the OS and SI was telling him that number was for the std ones.
Oregon called me to verify I was wanting the OS and not std diameter, and with a price on the OS ones once he got it straightened out with SI as to which ones we were talking about, never said nothing about being a problem getting them. They were a lil cheaper than Hughes is for them, too.
I just talked to Oregon this morning and was told that as of when I last talked to them 3 days ago the valves were all they are waiting for to send my order back to me. This morning he said they should be there today.
I have 3 slant heads, and one came to me completely bare. I do have a set of NOS Mopar valves for a slant here too. Plus between the other 2 heads that came to me "not" bare, 2 sets of (used, obviously) valves that I can hopefully get 1 good set out the 2.
The 2 heads that I have ground in so far will definitely need seat work, and a shave so those will hit the machine shop for completion for me.
I hope to get 2 good ported heads of the 3, one for my truck and 1 for the kids slant 6 in his truck.
When I talked to them to make sure my cam made it there they called me back the next day and verified that I want the OS ones, because he saw the same thing as I did on the SI website, they apparently have the std and OS part numbers reversed either in their system or on the site because the guy at Oregon came up with the same number as I did for the OS and SI was telling him that number was for the std ones.
Oregon called me to verify I was wanting the OS and not std diameter, and with a price on the OS ones once he got it straightened out with SI as to which ones we were talking about, never said nothing about being a problem getting them. They were a lil cheaper than Hughes is for them, too.
I just talked to Oregon this morning and was told that as of when I last talked to them 3 days ago the valves were all they are waiting for to send my order back to me. This morning he said they should be there today.
I have 3 slant heads, and one came to me completely bare. I do have a set of NOS Mopar valves for a slant here too. Plus between the other 2 heads that came to me "not" bare, 2 sets of (used, obviously) valves that I can hopefully get 1 good set out the 2.
The 2 heads that I have ground in so far will definitely need seat work, and a shave so those will hit the machine shop for completion for me.
I hope to get 2 good ported heads of the 3, one for my truck and 1 for the kids slant 6 in his truck.
I hope they have them. They didn't when I checked. I like the 318 valves better anyway, because they have longer stems for more valve sprAng and the valves themselves are bigger. You need the rocker shaft relocating shims from Mike at B3 Racing Engines, but that's no biggie.
I asked about 318 valves and was told that they were too long. And that you still use 318 springs with reg length/6 valves.
Also my engine cleaned up at 0.020 over. And I've heard that there may be an issue running even the SI oversized ones in a bore that small.
I wasn't looking to notch the block.
Also my engine cleaned up at 0.020 over. And I've heard that there may be an issue running even the SI oversized ones in a bore that small.
I wasn't looking to notch the block.
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MY hydrogen blimp blew up years ago, WAIT, it was helium!!!
Just kidding
Just kidding
Princess Valiant
A.K.A. Rainy Day Auto
What are you talking about??
Just a joke. Helium vs hydrogen?
Decades (Many) (even before my time), ago there were flying things called blimps, or derigibles ( spelling?). There was a basket on the under side that carried people, the tin was huge and filled with helium like a big ballon. Very flammable. Maybe static electricity caused it to blow.
my68barracuda
Well-Known Member
Rusty, are the B3 rocker shaft shims something unique or are they the typical .010 .020 half round shims.
Would be nice to move the shaft over as well as up.
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