bigus1949
Well-Known Member
i need to know the how too's on adjusting the valves cold om my 72 dodge 3.7 slant six. is there a sequence for doing the valve adjustment?
slantsix valve adjust
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armyofchuckness
The Flying Valiant
Here's a video that shows a good way to do it. The specs are in the description.
slantsixdan
=..=
Yup, hot and running. See also valve adjustment procedure.
I never done one running until I used Dans post above, and let me tell you, you can hear the engine changing its tune and the sound is nice. Put a towel down on the passenger side inner fender and the firewall and you'll save yourself a clean up. Make sure to idle it down and use the box end on the wrench.
rich006
Learning as I go
But not a towel your wife wants back...
/sixchall
Well-Known Member
Oh yes!, many times have I adjusted the ole valves on my '70 Dodge. Love the way those clattering valves sound when your done, plus you can always tell when you have a little more noticeable power. Have always adjusted them HOT, but don't like cascading oil down the side of the block to the floor when oil gets hot. Have tried damming up with rags and towels but still don't like the mess. So my old mechanic father gave me this idea. Take a spare unused valve cover and cut the top off of it. Put that cover back on again as you would've when completing your job (adjusting the valves). Fire the car up,start adjusting when it gets hot, now you may have to get the feeler gauges that have the angle bend in the end of them to come into the rocker and push rod at a different angle. No big oil mess and when your done remove your revamped cover hang on wall or wherever until next time. Thanks, AL
We used a universal socket on an extension and a ratchet.
vitamindart
Well-Known Member
I understand everyone prefers the "hot" adjustment but, he did ask for a cold procedure.
he may be doing an initial setting for start up/break in.
he may be doing an initial setting for start up/break in.
armyofchuckness
The Flying Valiant
Same settings as hot, just use the EOIC method and then do a hot adjust as soon as possible. 0.010" intake, 0.020" exhaust.
Camshaft - Car Craft Magazine
Camshaft - Car Craft Magazine
.010 intake and .020 exhaust. +.002 each for cold. Sorry, was thinking 273.
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exoJL
Well-Known Member
Did Chrysler factory set them cold like this back in 1960? f they did, they'd have to set them back warm anyways, which was actually usually done by mechanics at the dealerships as I recall.
kiss
Well-Known Member
Turn down the idle at the carb after the engine is warm to make adjusting easier. You can get the idle down pretty low
Valleyant
Valleyant
When checking/setting engine warm and running, use a box end wrench and one feeler gauge strip.......minimize what can fall into the moving engine parts should a mishap occur.....
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
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I set mine to .013/.023 at ambient temp, probably 65 to 75 *F. The hot-lash is perfect on mine when I do it this way, and I don't have to be in a hurry.
Also keep oi mind that slantys get neglected so bad that the rocker arms tend to get grooves worn into them by the scrubbing action of the stems. So the feelers you use will have to fit into the grooves. That means narrow tips less than the width of the stems.
If you use regular feelers, the lash will end up much too big.
To do a cold set, with the engine not running, there are two methods. I prefer doing each cylinder by itself and following the firing order.I start with the plugs out and whatever piston is close to TDC on the compression stroke.Both valves are closed so the cam is on the base circle.Then I rotate that piston to TDC. The easiest way I have found ,to determine TDC close enough to lash valves, is to have a compression tester hose screwed into the plug-hole, and the other end in my mouth. As long as the piston is coming up it blows my lips apart, but as soon as it goes down the other side, it wants to suck my spit out. So when it stops doing either, then it's ready to be adjusted.
The firing order is 1-5-3-6-2-4.
Then I proceed to the next cylinder in the firing order, which will be along in 120*, or 1/3 of a revolution. Again the hose in the plug hole gets TDC close enough for adjusting the valves.
Using this method means you don't have to be super accurate in finding a certain crank position. I'm sure that if you are within 1/8 turn of TDC it will be fine. 1/8th turn is 22.5 degrees . But I guarantee the pressure-suction method will get you a lot closer than that, probably within 5 degrees either way, if you are sloppy about it.
After the engine is all buttoned up. you will probably not know if the lash is too loose.
But you will know right away if it is too tight. The engine will not start normally (with a click of the key), and it will idle roughly (only 3-power pulses per revolution, and the power will decrease as the engine comes up to temp.
On mine I have found that an accurate hot intake lash of .010 is too tight. And an accurate hot exhaust lash of .013 is also too tight. If you accidentally did both at the same time, well you are looking at a do-over right away,lol.The engine runs terrible, and the hot-start also is terrible.
Good luck
PS, remember to use the narrow feeler blades, and like said;one atta time, and I put a key-ring on mine. It's amazing how slippery they can get.Actually I cheat; I put the two feelers that I am gonna use, on the same key ring, allowing the second one to become the handle,lol.
Also keep oi mind that slantys get neglected so bad that the rocker arms tend to get grooves worn into them by the scrubbing action of the stems. So the feelers you use will have to fit into the grooves. That means narrow tips less than the width of the stems.
If you use regular feelers, the lash will end up much too big.
To do a cold set, with the engine not running, there are two methods. I prefer doing each cylinder by itself and following the firing order.I start with the plugs out and whatever piston is close to TDC on the compression stroke.Both valves are closed so the cam is on the base circle.Then I rotate that piston to TDC. The easiest way I have found ,to determine TDC close enough to lash valves, is to have a compression tester hose screwed into the plug-hole, and the other end in my mouth. As long as the piston is coming up it blows my lips apart, but as soon as it goes down the other side, it wants to suck my spit out. So when it stops doing either, then it's ready to be adjusted.
The firing order is 1-5-3-6-2-4.
Then I proceed to the next cylinder in the firing order, which will be along in 120*, or 1/3 of a revolution. Again the hose in the plug hole gets TDC close enough for adjusting the valves.
Using this method means you don't have to be super accurate in finding a certain crank position. I'm sure that if you are within 1/8 turn of TDC it will be fine. 1/8th turn is 22.5 degrees . But I guarantee the pressure-suction method will get you a lot closer than that, probably within 5 degrees either way, if you are sloppy about it.
After the engine is all buttoned up. you will probably not know if the lash is too loose.
But you will know right away if it is too tight. The engine will not start normally (with a click of the key), and it will idle roughly (only 3-power pulses per revolution, and the power will decrease as the engine comes up to temp.
On mine I have found that an accurate hot intake lash of .010 is too tight. And an accurate hot exhaust lash of .013 is also too tight. If you accidentally did both at the same time, well you are looking at a do-over right away,lol.The engine runs terrible, and the hot-start also is terrible.
Good luck
PS, remember to use the narrow feeler blades, and like said;one atta time, and I put a key-ring on mine. It's amazing how slippery they can get.Actually I cheat; I put the two feelers that I am gonna use, on the same key ring, allowing the second one to become the handle,lol.
Not sure what the factory did. It was understood that it was done hot during a major tune up. Back in the day. Most were never readjusted. .010 intake and .020 exhaust. +.002 each for cold. Sorry, was thinking 273.
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exoJL
Well-Known Member
So please stop throwing out your "I think I did this" or "I think it was this" unintelligible knowledge for an engine that does not even match the engine that the topic is about (or even for the engine the topic is about...your theories are not wanted.) Go back to the the V8 forums please.
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