Sleeved 340

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67_Slimer

67_Slimer

Real Hot Rods don't shift themselves.
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I have a chance to buy a standard bore 1970 340 block but the owner states one of the cylinders is sleeved. I would plan on building a street/strip 10.5/1 motor with it down the road but before I make any decisions I want to check with my FABO crew for info. Thank you for always providing knowledge when needed!!
 
Every aluminum block, including top fuel blocks, is sleeved. As long as it's done properly, run it.

If I was going to sleeve a block, I'd sleeve 'em all because I'm OCD like that.
 
jos51700 said:
Every aluminum block, including top fuel blocks, is sleeved. As long as it's done properly, run it.

If I was going to sleeve a block, I'd sleeve 'em all because I'm OCD like that.
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I can relate Thank you
 
I asked the same question a few years back. Consensus was "no problem"......So, I had one sleeve installed in a 340 that I was building to keep them all at .040 O/S
 
CFD244 said:
I asked the same question a few years back. Consensus was "no problem"......So, I had one sleeve installed in a 340 that I was building to keep them all at .040 O/S
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How did the engine perform when finished?
 
I had two cylinders sleeved in my 340 four years ago. I drive on the street and bracket race it. I run it hard,runs great.
 
I've had many blocks that have been sleeved and never had any problems running north of 10.0 to 1 compression. Some of these blocks were beat like they owed me a fortune and the sleeves never failed.
 
In many instances, you may end up with a block that has thicker, more uniform wall thickness after it's been sleeved- that's a benefit.
Compression has no adverse effect on sleeves, otherwise 90% of the diesel trucks and semis wouldn't be on the road; they could be running northwards of 18 or 20:1, so your mild 10.5 motor is negligible.
 
I have one 69' 340 that has been sleeved for 17 years. Beat to death at the pleasure of my kids enjoyments and never a single issue
 
67_Slimer said:
I have a chance to buy a standard bore 1970 340 block but the owner states one of the cylinders is sleeved. I would plan on building a street/strip 10.5/1 motor with it down the road but before I make any decisions I want to check with my FABO crew for info. Thank you for always providing knowledge when needed!!
Click to expand...
My 70 340 was sleeved (#4 hole) by a shop about 24 years ago before I purchased the car. After me driving it over the last 20+ years, the block was rebuilt last year by a local shop that did not like the condition of that sleeve, so he machined it out and installed another sleeve in the same hole. +.050" over and the engine will be broke in next week.
 
I want to thank you all for your immediate and helpful responses! Much appreciated.
 
I have 3 sleeves, done at different times over the years, ran 12.5 compression for years.
I wouldn't have a #s matching car cept for sleeves .
 
my X block has 4 sleeves, 13.5 comp
my aluminum block obviously is sleeved and it has big compression at 16.3.

No issues with either blocks/sleeves. Both have been running for years.
 
Many of our Race engines have a sleeve or two.
Not from damage but from thin spots when sonic tested.

Most good machine shops can put one in and maintain alignment
BUT it takes an excellent machine shop to put in all eight and
maintain geometry.
 
My 340 has a sleeve that was installed just after the factory warranty ran out at 13,000 miles back in 1971. NOT covered under warranty. The motor now has just under 80k with no issues.
 
I got a 340 block for free because it needed a sleeve. The machine shop put 2 sleeves in it, and been running for years. I just had a 440 block sleeved, got to put it together yet.
 
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