slip yoke problem / TF 727

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here are some pics from the inland piece. The yoke from denny´s has got no numbers or manufacturer info.

Can you recommend a vendor who knows the difference between 518 and 727?

thanks Michael
 

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360duster said:
Yes, that´s the way it is, no lighting issue. The splines are more narrow in the top at the wrong one.

We´ll see what the vendor says, otherwise maybe i´ll come back to you regarding the Yoke.....;-)

best regards

Michael
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Looks like a very poorly cut spline then. That's probably the reason it doesn't fit.. Splines need to be precisely cut
 
Binderman said:
I found this listing for a yoke that I believe fits the A518. The spline cut is way different. Is it possible that both the yokes you have are meant for the 727, but just different tolerances depending on manufacturer? Wouldn't be the first time an aftermarket piece doesn't fit correctly.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/350483255359?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2648#ht_500wt_922
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That wont work, thats a newer slip for the different cut, which is a spicer slip yoke and notice the splines are cut sharp no angle and squared, the older is a sharp pointy spline
 
360duster said:
here are some pics from the inland piece. The yoke from denny´s has got no numbers or manufacturer info.

Can you recommend a vendor who knows the difference between 518 and 727?

thanks Michael
Click to expand...


The dennys is china, and inland is using power train...

Call Victory 515-282-9996 talk to Dennis you can tell him i sent you ( Marty Long Island Driveshaft)
 
Supershafts said:
That wont work, thats a newer slip for the different cut, which is a spicer slip yoke and notice the splines are cut sharp no angle and squared, the older is a sharp pointy spline
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Thanks for the confirmation Marty. That is why I posted the link for that yoke, as would conclude the debate as to whether or not the Denny's yoke was meant for the A815, as it was clearly intended to fit 727/A833. This being the case, my issue with the yoke being too loose, along with the one form Denny's being too tight in Michael's 727 can be attributed to incorrect manufacturing tolerances. Mine has PTI cast into it, and it uses the 7260 u-joint. I grilled Denny's this morning, as well as my local drivetrain shop. I am confident I will get to the bottom of it, and will post the results so that all can learn from it. Stay tuned!
 
Measured the spline on both of my mainshafts last night. They show the following:
Original Shaft Major= 1.275
Minor= 1.273
Used Replacement Shaft Major= 1.273
Minor= 1.271

Interesting, a .002 difference between the 2 shafts. Doesn't sound major, but I measured a Muncie shaft, and new slip yoke, and came up with a clearance fit of .003. That corresponds with a beautiful snug fit on the yoke. Although it has become obvious that the Mopar yoke tolerences are all over the place, I am almost positive the shaft spline tolerances are out to lunch also. This being said, at this point we are only talking a couple of thousands of an inch, but that can mean the difference between tapping on with a hammer, or sliding right on.
 
What did the slip yokes measure out as? Mopar had some tolerance issues, but usually that was in the motors, the driveline stuff made by detroit which made the slips and shafts and joints
 
Marty, I will need to get special tools to measure the yoke, but I will try to get those numbers. I just finished measuring a 727 spline and found the following: Major= 1.277
Minor= 1.191
The major is obviously .002 larger than than measurement on my 833, but the minor is.018 larger than mine, Yikes! This only serves to confirm the tolerance differences between shafts. Incidently, my yoke fits beautifully snug on the 727, but brutally sloppy on my 833. The difference in Major and Minor tells the tale. There is no mystery here, Michaels fitment issue is likely due to tolerance dysfunction with the shaft and the yoke.
 
I added the following conclusion to a thread that I had started a while back about the issue I was experiencing. The bottom line is, the tolerances on the transmission main shafts from Mopar, and the tolerances on the factory yokes as well as the aftermarket ones are all over the map. Creating a proper fit will unfortunately be a game of trial and error. In the end, you will want to ensure that you have less than .010 vertical end play on the yoke, or you will definitely have vibration issues. Hopefully by now you have it worked out, but thought I would add my two cents anyway.

"Finally got my old truck back together tonight. A month ago, I convinced Wayne at Brewers to run some measurements on one of his replacement main shafts vs a new TY8330 yoke. Having found a matched set that measured less than .010 vertical end play, I told him I would buy them, but suggested he sift through his stock of yokes, as I was convinced the tighter the better. In the end I basically told him I would like one that you need to grunt to push it in. He laughed, but in the end the one he sent was extremely tight. I measured the end play on the shaft and yoke in the vise, and it was less than .005. Had the tranny reassembled with this shaft, and new synchros, bearings etc. Took it for a test run tonight, and no more vibration at any speed. Doing the happy dance now! Bottom line is there are many things that can cause a drive line vibration. A loose slip yoke is one of them. Hopefully others can learn from my experience. Thanks to all for the interest and suggestions."
 
I was reading all the comments trying to resolve an issue with my yoke. I have the 727 and had a company build my driveshaft. They send it with the end yoke and Spicer 1350 joints . After getting it all together and going down the road thought car was going to vibrate apart . I finally realized I have a bunch of vertical end play on trans tail/ yoke. I don't necessarily know where to start . I was looking for a thicker trans yoke but didn't really have a clue this was going to be an issue . It's a TCI trans so I couldn't tell the year for a place start . I see a few have had this same issue. Do I buy yokes till I find one that has less vertical play? Or what is the option ?
 
If you have that much clearance between the slip yoke and bushing, it's going to leak pretty bad too. Maybe wrong or damaged bushing? If you have a micrometer, measure the diameter of the yoke to see if it's correct.
 
The seal isn't leaking it's just enough play it's the only place I can see a vibration coming from. I measured outside diameter 1.68 . Driveshaft Specialist of Texas built the shaft used a SONNAX yoke for trans end . Hard for me to measure vertical play but close as I can get is around .06 of play. Pinion angles are only 2 degree difference.
 
That doesn't sound like a "bunch" of play to me. Certainly not enough to cause a vibration. Check to see if the u-joints are in phase, measure the driveshaft runout, that the driveshaft is the correct length, and yoke installed position is correct, and your pinion angles.
 
Ok I had to start somewhere. And looking at the rearend angle with the 4 link the rear angle is tilted up more than maybe it should be . So thinking I will start with dropping that down some and then see what vibration feels like

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Maybe I'm looking at it wrong, but, the angle looks backwards to me. The rear end pinion shaft centerline should point under the driveshaft, not above it.
 
I am going to re adjust that and hope it will correct the problem . After a few emails my end play on yoke just isn't enough to be the issue . So has to be the angle as shown . Glad or should say hope it resolves issue . Thanks for input
 
articcolds said:
I am going to re adjust that and hope it will correct the problem . After a few emails my end play on yoke just isn't enough to be the issue . So has to be the angle as shown . Glad or should say hope it resolves issue . Thanks for input
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A 4 link setup doesn't require much downward angle due to it's rigidity but you don't usually want it pointing up. Get you an angle finder and measure. It's the only way to do it right. When your talking a couple degrees you can't see that with the naked eye
 
I used a degree tool and re adjusted the angle . Like said under load rear doesn't move like leaf spring set ups . So hoping now that I angled it down and with car load degree difference is only about 1 dgree . It is at a much better angle just won't know now that is snowed can drive . Sure this was the issue after I spent some time under car and stopped over thinking things .
 
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