Small block 360 cam choice

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Bullit makes custom cams. More expensive but made for your combo. Elgin makes normal run of the mill cams. Like summit house brand cams. I've ran them with no problems they old school grinds.
 
That's the one I have.

It's a really under rated grind. It's old school, I admit, but it's proven time and again to be a really good street grind. I just ordered one for my 400 build. It was 59 bucks on sale. lol

What springs you run with it?

Comp 901-16 or equivalent.
 
That's the one I have.

I had that cam in a 340 and the car ran 102ish MPH in 1/4. Another car with the same cam, 360, 1.6 rockers and really good iron heads has run 11.70's.

I had single spring cranes on mine.

Any of the 901 springs will work. Look at 16901-16 trickflow springs. Same as the 901 comp IIRC, less $.
 
So is this accurate for a 340 grind that would work good in my. Low compression 360?

Also would I benefit from a solid cam rather than hydraulic? I have a set of 273 rockers and push rods setting on my shelf currently I haven't used yet.
Screenshot_20200705-080459_Chrome.jpg
 
That is the 340 cam also used in some 360-4bbl. engines. I would NOT use that in a low compression engine.

A solid cam offers more rpm to put it in simple terms.
 
what a bunch of cam suggestions for chevies
crap
Howard with 15 in the comments column (and the ones mentioned are for chevies in a mopar box)
Lunati voodoo
or custom
That's it for catalog grinds
no comp, erson, isky, melling, summit, elgin, sealed power, wolverine,
not the stock 340 with your compression unless you keep it reved up ALL the time- what rumble said
there are some crower and Engle catalog but they are custom groud these days, also some Crane but nothing for u
did u post your intake, exhaust, gears and , chassis and usage?
 
2600 stall and 3.55 gears 8:1 compression
200-256 @.006 with as much at .200 as you can get around .460 or better lift at those durations
the short seat to seat crutches the lack of compresssion and the .200 gives you the power tgat the gtround ib Detroit "repackages"white box" cams can't match eventhough you have had lots of comments from personal experiences
most of the low end cams from all the grinders are that way
.050 is worthless for picking a cam
you can do better with a solid post back if interested
stock springs do not handel more than stock lift well
Use the lunati 700 and 701 as standards for comparisons
 
so the two cams i keep seeing suggestions on are the lunati 701 and the comp xe268h
 
2600 stall and 3.55 gears 8:1 compression
200-256 @.006 with as much at .200 as you can get around .460 or better lift at those durations
the short seat to seat crutches the lack of compresssion and the .200 gives you the power tgat the gtround ib Detroit "repackages"white box" cams can't match eventhough you have had lots of comments from personal experiences
most of the low end cams from all the grinders are that way
.050 is worthless for picking a cam
you can do better with a solid post back if interested
stock springs do not handel more than stock lift well
Use the lunati 700 and 701 as standards for comparisons
of course im interested. i really want the best cam for the money.. this is a budget build, reason i am not swapping out short block pistons.. work i cant afford to have redone
 
you can run yourself ragged with the stuff that gets posted. Some will suggest low buck that works, others $250+ hyd camshafts that might just make a little more power. Nothing is going to make so much more power to justify the expense... JMO.

Best cam for the money is throwing darts at a dartboard at this level. A bunch will work just fine and perform well. Keep it simple.
 
of course im interested. i really want the best cam for the money.. this is a budget build, reason i am not swapping out short block pistons.. work i cant afford to have redone
My man, I think your chasing your tail around and wasting time and money and skipping over sanity.

1: You should have kept the Comp cam and if it were possible, added 1.6 rockers to add in some intensity.

2: Shelf cam? Lunati!

3: These “Better” cams will need head work. If that’s too much for you to do or spend on, then stop right here, skip your worry because the goal is no longer achievable and use what ever cam you throw at the dart board. They will work fine but not as well as if you put the effort or $$$ into the OE heads or spend more for better heads.

I have not had a problem making good power with less intense grind cams. Like the ones listed above by the FABO crew. Wyrmrider makes a very good recommendation even though many times I disagree with his insistence on a high intensity rate lift cam. It’s not always needed and justified for all builds. But if the absolute max return is what your looking for, you need to spend money on everything else to make it work.

Hot Rodding rule #1

Before any wrench is turned, most parts don’t fit or work OOTB most of the time and require other parts that do not fit and work OOTB and require more work and/or parts to fit. When you get the parts designed to work with the first part, re read the rule again at the beginning again over and over until the part(s) fit and work as intended.
 
The whole .904 lifter thing makes me chuckle.

To hear it from some people....... a Mopar just can’t run good without a cam designed for a .904 lifter.

For most of the companies pushing that stuff, it’s a relatively recent development.

So...... if you’re a cam grinder that doesn’t offer those, I guess you never produced a worthwhile Mopar cam(like Isky or Racer Brown).
And then obviously....... mopars couldn’t have ever made any power before this style of cam became “the thing”.

Of course....... there sure are a **** ton of fantastic running GM products that seem to be able to get it done using cams that will work just great with a lobe designed for an .842 lifter.

Personally, I like to keep my mind open to the idea of running any and all cam profiles that would work with the combo I’m working on, and not limit myself to only the handful of profiles offered for the .904 lifter.

The fact of the matter is, most of the cam recommendations made on these forums, by people who have been playing with Mopars for a while, and are often based on their personal experiences, are for cams that are not .904 designs.
Wait....... what??
You mean there have been non-904 designed cams put into Mopar engines....... and there are people who were satisfied with the results?
There are some that would tell you that just can’t be.
 
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the 268 lunati is 25 hp over the comp 268h
what rumble said
2: Shelf cam? Lunati!


you need roller rockers like you need a hole i the head- the lunati gives you more area uder the curve than a change to roller1.6 rockers
roller rockers after you max the cam at the duration you want to run , or high lift or lots of rpm
even then iron rockers work, roller tips at those levels need B 3 kit, pushrods $$$
 
the 268 lunati is 25 hp over the comp 268h
what rumble said
2: Shelf cam? Lunati!


you need roller rockers like you need a hole i the head- the lunati gives you more area uder the curve than a change to roller1.6 rockers
roller rockers after you max the cam at the duration you want to run , or high lift or lots of rpm
even then iron rockers work, roller tips at those levels need B 3 kit, pushrods $$$

It what you keep insisting on is a .904 only can that doesn’t always show its teeth and sometimes can not die to the engine build.

Honestly, I think your half baked. PHR is dead on right.
The OP wants a kick *** cam? Fine, freakin fine! He will never feel the difference and barley see it on the strip.
With a build like this -

“360, stock bottom end with dish pistons, 2600 stall in reverse manual 904 with 3:55. Wieand stealth intake, eddy carb and I can run a stock distributor or one locked out at 35-36° total.”

Even the Lunati has compromised issues any half witted car guy can poke holes in. You go in and argue the “NEED” of a .904. I said it earlier, should have kept the comp cam. Nothing like putting in the best parts and get less than Stella results.

His build would do excellent with that lowly Magnum Muscle cam.
 
It what you keep insisting on is a .904 only can that doesn’t always show its teeth and sometimes can not die to the engine build.

Honestly, I think your half baked. PHR is dead on right.
The OP wants a kick *** cam? Fine, freakin fine! He will never feel the difference and barley see it on the strip.
With a build like this -

“360, stock bottom end with dish pistons, 2600 stall in reverse manual 904 with 3:55. Wieand stealth intake, eddy carb and I can run a stock distributor or one locked out at 35-36° total.”

Even the Lunati has compromised issues any half witted car guy can poke holes in. You go in and argue the “NEED” of a .904. I said it earlier, should have kept the comp cam. Nothing like putting in the best parts and get less than Stella results.

His build would do excellent with that lowly Magnum Muscle cam.

i just want something reliable, with a little power when i want to play.. main reason is my current 318 is wore out and need to replace it.. short block has already been assembled and i dont want to have to pay to up the compression.. im not looking to crush cars.. just something fun to drive...i dont want to have to have heads cut down for double springs as the lunati 701 and the comp xe274 i sold calls for..
 
....and then there are the lifters. Honestly, I am to the point of living with my current low performance yet reliable cam in my similar mill because of my concern with hydraulic lifter failures.
 
the 268 lunati is 25 hp over the comp 268h

How about the .842 268 Voodoo vs the .904 268 Voodoo...... in an 8:1 360 with stock 1.88 heads?

I doubt it would even be 6-8hp.

But...... until you actually do the test...... you don’t really know.

What I do know is that several of the milder cams recommended in this thread would fulfill the OP’s requests, with the least amount of additional parts & labor required to get it all up and running.
 
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what a bunch of cam suggestions for chevies
crap
Howard with 15 in the comments column (and the ones mentioned are for chevies in a mopar box)
Lunati voodoo
or custom
That's it for catalog grinds
no comp, erson, isky, melling, summit, elgin, sealed power, wolverine,
not the stock 340 with your compression unless you keep it reved up ALL the time- what rumble said
there are some crower and Engle catalog but they are custom groud these days, also some Crane but nothing for u
did u post your intake, exhaust, gears and , chassis and usage?
I ran a 340 blueprint crane cam in a 318, +4 degrees advanced...engine tech stock replace pistons .020 and closed 234 heads, it cranked 148 psi .
4 spd and 3.73 gears
Was no slouch, it had go from the first tip of the throttle.
I dont think he needs that much cam even, lift? Sure, but anything more than 260's duration or more than 40'ish o lap isnt going to work great with his drivetrain
 
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there is no .842 voodoo for mopar unless you are refering to the budget cam line which i do not think is a UDHRold master- could be wrong
but why would anyone buy one? The paramaters on the chevy voodoo are exactly the same as the mopar- only difference is the larger are of the lifter to work with
Magnum Muscle is a scam
he has a low compression and you guys want to give the low end away
for what?
264 if he had 9.7:1 268 10:1 256 with 9:1 and does not even have 9:1
no one is talking race cams
anyone that wants a fat but big nosed cam can get an engle
but evev Engle and Crower and Crane low end cams are rebranded white boxes
 
I was going to respond, but I’m just tired of arguing about it.

Every cam grinder in America could supply a suitable cam for the OP’s build.
Whether they offer .904 specific lobes or not.
 
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