small block electric water pump

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73rrchris

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Bought a electric water pump and theres no ports for the bypass hose or heater core hoses. I want to run it on the street. Any help?
 
Plug the bypass on the intake and run it like that. No in car heat. Your pump is likely a race car piece. You would not be the first to run it like this. Less weight and engine compartment clutter. If you want the bypass and heater hoses, go back to the stock set up or run the Moroso electric water pump drive that retains the stock pump.
 
If you block the bypass ( which you'll have to do), you'll also want to pull the T stat out and run a restrictor plate instead.
 
i contacted CSR about this, ya can't use the heater, no provisions. However, they did tell me it would be okay to drill a hole for a 1/4" NPT pipe thread fitting to run a line to the bypass on the manifold, of course you would have to reduce the manifold outlet a little. the green dot in the pic is where u would drill the hole. i didnt do it, i decided to use a standard water pump.

w6quip.jpg
 
i contacted CSR about this, ya can't use the heater, no provisions. However, they did tell me it would be okay to drill a hole for a 1/4" NPT pipe thread fitting to run a line to the bypass on the manifold, of course you would have to reduce the manifold outlet a little. the green dot in the pic is where u would drill the hole. i didnt do it, i decided to use a standard water pump. ]

Hi. I bought the same timing cover. from the guy in florida. What did you do with the cam bolt to make it fit. I will be putting mine on for next season and I am modifying it for my Altenator that is run off a power steering pump bracket. I am mocking it up on another 340 and noticed it is 1/4 inch away from the block with the standard bolt and mopar washer.

This moves the pump back over 1 inch and I will be able to use my lower AN fragola hose. I installed a bleeder valve where you have that dot now it is not in the old pic below.
 

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i contacted CSR about this, ya can't use the heater, no provisions. However, they did tell me it would be okay to drill a hole for a 1/4" NPT pipe thread fitting to run a line to the bypass on the manifold, of course you would have to reduce the manifold outlet a little. the green dot in the pic is where u would drill the hole. i didnt do it, i decided to use a standard water pump.

w6quip.jpg

The stroker I bought had a Mezier water pump on it and I couldn't figure out how I was going to drive the alternator. Sold it to a guy down under and put on a stock pump with a Moroso elec drive motor. Works great and allows me to warm up the cold blooded stroker a lot faster so it will idle - just leave the pump off until the water temp gage shows some signs of life. What was kinda strange was the corrosion I found behind that Mezier pump where the water dead heads at the bottom behind the pump plate. It ate into the anodizing.
 
i contacted CSR about this, ya can't use the heater, no provisions. However, they did tell me it would be okay to drill a hole for a 1/4" NPT pipe thread fitting to run a line to the bypass on the manifold, of course you would have to reduce the manifold outlet a little. the green dot in the pic is where u would drill the hole. i didnt do it, i decided to use a standard water pump. ]

Hi. I bought the same timing cover. from the guy in florida. What did you do with the cam bolt to make it fit. I will be putting mine on for next season and I am modifying it for my Altenator that is run off a power steering pump bracket. I am mocking it up on another 340 and noticed it is 1/4 inch away from the block with the standard bolt and mopar washer.

This moves the pump back over 1 inch and I will be able to use my lower AN fragola hose. I installed a bleeder valve where you have that dot now it is not in the old pic below.

I think what we did was turn the bolt down on a lathe...dont remember if we modified the cover or not...im taking it off soon to install the mechanical water pump and standard timing cover, so ill update this thread when i find out exactly what was done.
 
Another way you could get around the heater problem is to do like "bluk" GM used to do--one heater hose out of the water outlet just like stock, the return hose goes to a fitting up on the radiator tank.

Like the one below. The fittings on the top tank, top to bottom are

filler cap, HEATER RETURN, cooler line, cooler line, bottom hose, drain

If there's any question about flow/ pressure, I BELIEVE you could guarantee good flow by putting a fitting in the BOTTOM tank on a vertical rad.

134-68012.jpg
 
are those moroso electric drive kits good for a street car with a stock water pump and a heater? im getting a new stock style water pump. is this a good spot to get some free hp?
 
are those moroso electric drive kits good for a street car with a stock water pump and a heater? im getting a new stock style water pump. is this a good spot to get some free hp?

No, this is not a spot to get some free HP on a street car.

Track car... Sure.

For a full time street car you are better off with a conventional (non electric) belt driven water pump.
 
thats kind of what i was thinking but i was hoping it wasnt true.
 
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