So... What did I buy?

-

Hellrats

Just another dumbass
Joined
Jan 24, 2012
Messages
2,297
Reaction score
2,191
Location
N.E. Ohio
This will be a long story but follow along as I could use your help. I'm always looking for 340 small block parts. If it says 340 I'll go check it out. If it's a deal it's mine. I have always been a fan of it, the giant killer. So I found an ad a few months ago for some Mopar stuff in a barn find. It's a two hour drive but I'm retired now and it gives me something to do other than my part time job. Anyway, I get ahold of the guy and do the two hour drive. Turns out he is a Ford guy but he had to buy it all or nothing so he bought the lot. He has two 340 engines. One is a short block and it is rough to say the least. The other is just a block with main caps. But he has a crankshaft for it and that is it. I thought OK I have two sets of 340 rods at the house so lets make a deal. I bought the short block and bare block and the crankshaft for $500 bucks. I was thinking I did OK. I disassemble the short block, it looks like a boat anchor but you never know. Took both of them to my machine shop. They cleaned and mag them. Both check out OK but the rough one needs sleeves, now the other one will clean up at .040" on the bore. The crankshaft needs turned but is OK other than that. So I tell them do the better of the two blocks and the crankshaft. Also go ahead and rebuild the factory rods I dropped off. Everything goes as planned and I picked up the parts today. They look great! I'm happy!! Then I start looking closer and I'm like... WTF? These are some weird numbers on this block? So turn my attention to the crankshaft. I'm like bingo bango!!! Could it be? I think it is a 318-3 truck crankshaft or an old Direct Connection crankshaft? It has no part number on it at all but it most surely is forged. So I'm asking all you guys... WHAT THE HELL DID I BUY? The block numbers are crazy and it has no VIN. Doesn't look like it ever had one. They both were standard bore too. Both blocks was cast in 72 but the letters on the front say it's a 73. Is this last of the run of them?

IMG20241226123007.jpg


IMG20241226123030.jpg


IMG20241226123042.jpg


IMG20241226123210.jpg


IMG20241226123437.jpg


IMG20241226123728.jpg


IMG20241226123735.jpg


IMG20241226125952.jpg


IMG20241226125959.jpg


IMG20241226130017.jpg
 
Last edited:
The block is genuine and the crank looks like a normal forged piece to me I have 2 340s and had 3 in my life. I cant explain why there are no numbers but i have had guys tell me some of the cranks don't have numbers. It makes me wonder if it is or was a replacement .
 
That's a heavy duty 318 crank, I believe. The 340 cranks had the front throw drilled all the way through if I remember right.
 
Yeah that's the plan. I'm really confused about the block numbers. Not like it makes a difference I just never have seen one like this.
 
Looks like forged crank. Where's the weird block #'s? In 5th pic I see "JM 340P". Nothing on vin rail?
340-6 stamping is normal. The numbers following the dash usually range from 1-8. I've never seen a dbl digit there.
 
I agree with 71GSSDemon, replacement blocks didn't have VIN numbers. That is a 318-3 truck crankshaft, I have one of those hard to find pieces. RRR is correct front throw is not drilled through, nice score! 65
 
There is nothing "odd" or "weird" about it. It's a 72 casting 340, would have came in a 73 model, or warranty block. And yes, that's a 318 steel crank. You got a nice score for sure
 
This will be a long story but follow along as I could use your help. I'm always looking for 340 small block parts. If it says 340 I'll go check it out. If it's a deal it's mine. I have always been a fan of it, the giant killer. So I found an ad a few months ago for some Mopar stuff in a barn find. It's a two hour drive but I'm retired now and it gives me something to do other than my part time job. Anyway, I get ahold of the guy and do the two hour drive. Turns out he is a Ford guy but he had to buy it all or nothing so he bought the lot. He has two 340 engines. One is a short block and it is rough to say the least. The other is just a block with main caps. But he has a crankshaft for it and that is it. I thought OK I have two sets of 340 rods at the house so lets make a deal. I bought the short block and bare block and the crankshaft for $500 bucks. I was thinking I did OK. I disassemble the short block, it looks like a boat anchor but you never know. Took both of them to my machine shop. They cleaned and mag them. Both check out OK but the rough one needs sleeves, now the other one will clean up at .040" on the bore. The crankshaft needs turned but is OK other than that. So I tell them do the better of the two blocks and the crankshaft. Also go ahead and rebuild the factory rods I dropped off. Everything goes as planned and I picked up the parts today. They look great! I'm happy!! Then I start looking closer and I'm like... WTF? These are some weird numbers on this block? So turn my attention to the crankshaft. I'm like bingo bango!!! Could it be? I think it is a 318-3 truck crankshaft or an old Direct Connection crankshaft? It has no part number on it at all but it most surely is forged. So I'm asking all you guys... WHAT THE HELL DID I BUY? The block numbers are crazy and it has no VIN. Doesn't look like it ever had one. They both were standard bore too. Both blocks was cast in 72 but the letters on the front say it's a 73. Is this last of the run of them?

View attachment 1716344232

View attachment 1716344233

View attachment 1716344234

View attachment 1716344235

View attachment 1716344236

View attachment 1716344237

View attachment 1716344238

View attachment 1716344239

View attachment 1716344240

View attachment 1716344241
A mostly unknown issue...

Put the upper main bearings in place and take a look at how the hole on the bearing sit right over the intersection of the 2 feeds, cam and main. Notice the intersection is shallow...the web between is high and tight.. oil doesn't get through easy and not much to the main either...plus the bearings hole isnt open enough to expose the main feed completely.

Open the bearing holes, slot them... or counter sink the main saddle where the 2 feeds intersect. You're welcome !
 
-
Back
Top