Solid lifter on hydraulic cam?

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Longgone

Longgone

John/68 Barracuda & Dart
Joined
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Has anybody tried a solid lifter on a hydraulic cam? I like my cam grind but can`t find anything in solid that`s close, so after talking to a tech at Comp Cams , he suggested using a solid lifter on my existing hydraulic cam.
 
Longgone said:
Has anybody tried a solid lifter on a hydraulic cam? I like my cam grind but can`t find anything in solid that`s close, so after talking to a tech at Comp Cams , he suggested using a solid lifter on my existing hydraulic cam.
Click to expand...
And Comp Cams suggested this?
 
The cams are ground on the same type of core so it will not wipe out the cam. The lobe profiles are different between solid and hydraulic cams. You can change lifters back and forth but if you swap lifter types it will not react the same as far as performance so it is not usually beneficial to swap lifter types.
 
So I guess now every one should pull out their hydro lifters and install solids and make insane power and have it run so smooth a cup of water will not shake.If you want a solid lifter valve train,install the complete lit from A-Z,with the correct push rods and rockers and adjust the valve train twice a season and be done.Who every said this could have been smoking some thing for sure.So if you install solid lifters on the hydro cam,you better make sure you adjustable rockers or its not going to start,and if it does,its going to run like crap.If this is a (secret)solution,every one and his or her mother would be doing this,maybe this is the secret to the dodge nascar motor,Mrmopartech
 
Mopartech,
Are you sure that this is the secret that they use in NASCAR?.......................LOL
 
No one said that it will be a power advantage. As a matter of fact I do not recommend the lifter swap because the cams are not ground for that purpose. You will get the most out of a cam with using the correct lifters and valve train. Don't take it so personel Mrmopartech, you made a mistake on the flat cam lobe thing, no big deal... everyone learns something new everyday. I have made plenty of mistakes on things... it's all a part of being human. I have seen a lot of your advise on this sight and it is more times than not very solid advise so I don't think any less of you because you were mistaken. Welcome to the human world.

I will add though I will think less of you or anyone else that calls other people names or makes references to derogitory statements about people... it's not professional and is not adult like. So do your good reputation a favor and try and refrain from doing that.

Chuck
 
Longgone remember that if you put solid lifters on a hydraulic cam you will loose lift by how much clearance you adjust your valves so most likely you will loose performance. For example my valves have a clearance on .020in and .022ex on my roller if you use a MP .509 cam the gross lift is now only .489in & .487ex. I don't believe this will net a power gain and will probably loose power. With the way hydraulic lifter technology is today there is no need to do your lifter swap. If you really want solid lifters, do like Mrmopartech says buy a solid lifter cam.
 
I`ve had some floating valve issues and would like to get the full potential out of my engine, so after talking to a LOT of different people in the field about hydraulic, anti-pump up, and solid lifters, I came across the tech at Comp that suggested the swap. I already have adjustable roller rockers and a set of solid pushrods. If the swap was feasible I could simply pull the rocker shafts and pull the lifters through the heads without even removing the intake. An $89.00 endeavor, and retain my present cam. The tech at Comp did say that the cam would NOT perform as well, and I would lose .004-.007 off the cam grind because of lash, not to mention the different characteristics of the cam lobe slope. I considered it based on cost and that my present grind was not available in solid. In summary, I called Comp back and they are going to do a custom grind for me and my $89.00 project is now at $435.00 with custom grind cam, lifters, gaskets, timing chain, retainers, and locks. If I would have gotten any favorable feedback on this question I may have given it a go, but I`m going to just spend the money now and be done with it.
 
It is possible that your valve springs are dieing on you. Since you have adjustable rockers you can check to see if it's your valve springs or it's your lifters that are the problem. Adjust you valves to zero lash and go make a run, if your valve floating is still there it is your valve springs if it goes away then you were right and it is your lifters. I would do this before you spend any money on the cam & hardware, it would suck to put all of that new stuff in the motor and find out you still need valve springs.
 
Hi 340mopar- The springs were new and matched to the cam ,933 hemi spring with 284/484 MP cam. There`s less than 600 miles on the set. I did have 3 lifters that wouldn`t pump up correctly from the start. They were removed, cleaned, and replaced after which there were no more issues with them not pumping up. After talking with techs from all over ,their collective opinions seem to be that perhaps what I`m experiencing is not valve float but a restrictive exhaust(since I`m still running the exhaust manifolds) the MP tech being the only one not of that opinion. I`m not a big fan of headers although almost every muscle car I`ve owned has had them. I may relent and put headers on(certainly couldn`t hurt) just to see what difference it makes and go from there.
 
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