spark plugg are burnt

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martin53

martin53
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After testing a 225 out of a pickup truck I got a while back I pulled the sparkplugs and all 5 but one are burnt up. The one that wasn't was the only one that didn't have an adapter. Why use adapters is the engine burning oil. When we started it up it ran fine. Should I just change the pluggs and the valve seal and try it out.
 
63+ remove the spark plug gasket.

"The '63-up heads have a redesigned counterbore at the top of the spark plug hole; the spark plug tube itself seals the plug, and if you use the washer it moves the electrodes out of their intended position in the combustion chamber and interferes with heat transfer from the plug to the head. The '60-'62 heads don't have the special counterbore and need to use the plug gaskets. "

NGK v-power is a quality plug, try em out.
 
martin53,
Can you better explain these "adapters". I think you are confusing people. I am guessing the spark plugs were screwed into "non-foulers" which stand the plug back so it doesn't get oiled. Those are usually for engines with bad rings that are on their last leg.

I don't think leaking valve stems will foul plugs, unless severe. Usually, it allows oil to suck into the intake while sitting at a stop light, then you get a puff of blue smoke as you drive away.

Don't go by what a prior owner did. Evaluate the engine yourself before deciding on a fix. The engine could be fine and their thinking was screwed up.
 
Yes they are what you described as non foulers thanks. I started the engine for the first time since I've had it and it started right away with no problems or smoke. This is the first time I've seen these nonfoulers so I wasent sure what to think. I'll through new plugs in and see what happens. Should I try them without the nonfoulers
 
Valve seals are a good idea if the rings are not shot; they get old and brittle or hard and just don't seal as well anymore.

Do you have any photos of the plugs to post? This is important to see what you mean by 'burnt up'. Do you mean the electrodes are all gone? OR do you mean there is black burnt crud all over them? If the latter is the case, then the oil rings may be shot and the burnt crud is burnt oil and the adapters (non-foulers) are there for a reason.
 
I'll try and post from a computer later I'm on my phone I was trying to find a app but no luck. I have two plugs that don't have nonfoulers that are good the others have the electroid burned up. Not sure what the latter is is that the hook at the top if so I got one spark plug with a Chuck of that gone. The other three are missing the electrode. I'm looking to keep this engine alive hopefully through the summer. One more question why am I having problems with just four plugs and not all six. Two plugs look perfect with no non foulers. Thanks for the help and suggestions guys.
 
Check the plugs to see if they are the right type and heat range for the engine. They could be too hot a range of plug and were put in the non-foulers to keep them cooler and not burn up. Or maybe they were the wrong types with too long an electrode and someone put them into the non-foulers to keep them from hitting the pistons...people have done dumber things!

OK, sounds like oil fouling is not the issue. Yeah at this point I would put in a set of inexpensive plugs as suggested and make sure they are the right type (don't just buy the same part number!) , turn the engine over by hand as you put in each plug to make sure they clear the piston tops, and see how it works. If it runs good, take them out at intervals for while to see how they are doing.

And one other thing: maybe find the head part number and look it up to see for sure what year it is (or ask here), and match the plugs to the head.....who knows what head/block comboe you have.
 
I use to use NGK BP5EY spark plugs in my slant.....the 'Y' means it has a 'V' groove centre electrode.
On cars that burn oil, I use BP4EY's.....hotter plug.
 
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