Spun 360 Rod Bearing

[SpeedThrills]

I bought a used 360 w/ balanced stock rods and crank, KB191's (measured 10.9:1), 292* .508 purple cam, and ported 915's w/ 2.02 intakes. It has run mostly 11.90's in a 3000# (at the line) Duster.
I took it apart to see what was in it, and check it out when I bought it, because the guy I bought it from didn't know much about it. Everything measured good.

I put new bearings and rings in it while it was apart. (I ran a stone-type hone with Scotch Brite covering the stones through it.)

Anyhow, I put about 500 street miles and 18 1/4 mile runs on it, when I started hearing a knock at low rpms, and light load. Nothing at idle, nothing at WOT. Hoping it was a detonation issue, I retarded the timing, no difference. I cut open the oil filter and found some bearing material.

Pulled it out, and just finished looking it over. No other metal anywhere. All the other bearings look fine. The filter worked! But... number 8 rod has spun the bearing. (The oil pressure was always good, 50-75 psi.)
I'm not really experienced at engine diagnosis, but it doesn't seem too bad. The only bearing material missing is the tangs.

My assembly notes say that the crank is .010" undersize. Standard is 2.125, mine (on a good journal is 2.115, the spun journal is 2.114.

My questions:
-Is this something that can be polished to fit a .001 or .002 oversized bearing? (That's probably dependent on the machine shop's inspection?)
-Should they all be polished to suit same size bearings?

Oh, and I know the cause. A bit embarrassing. My assembly notes also mention questionable crush on the cap bearing insert. I guess I erroneously figured that, "It must've been that way before, so it should be okay now".


I don't have any experience with the nearest machine shop. I'm going to stop by my DD mechanic's shop and ask him about them.

I was expecting the worst (ruined crank, total tear down, etc.), but maybe I got lucky. Maybe they can polish it up, resize the rod and send it. I really don't need to sink a bunch of cash into it.

 

[Oldmanmopar]

Get high quality steel shell aluminum bearings. We use King Bearings. heat treated they look blued. The locks are stronger and they don't squash the centers out as easy from timing being advanced to far or High boost up to 60 psi. I'll bet they are loose in the rod. I have seen bearings you can spread with your fingers or when stepped on. A good bearing will go through a rubber sole of a shoe. Junk bearing you will flatten out.

 

[mygasser]

you should get the rod resized before reassembly too, now the bearings have been spinning in it.

 

[SpeedThrills]

Get high quality steel shell aluminum bearings. We use King Bearings. heat treated they look blued. The locks are stronger and they don't squash the centers out as easy from timing being advanced to far or High boost up to 60 psi. I'll bet they are loose in the rod. I have seen bearings you can spread with your fingers or when stepped on. A good bearing will go through a rubber sole of a shoe. Junk bearing you will flatten out.

Hi Steve. I hoped that fire isn't affecting you.
I hear you on the Kings. The bearings in it are Clevite 77's. Would you happen to know if they're comparable? I just did a little searching about bearings; there's a bunch to learn!
I'm curious as to what the machine shop has to say. I would use your son, if it weren't so far. I still might if I don't hear what I want to hear!

you should get the rod resized before reassembly too, now the bearings have been spinning in it.

On my list, as mentioned in the last sentence. I have to check all of them.

 

[Newbomb Turk]

Hi Steve. I hoped that fire isn't affecting you.
I hear you on the Kings. The bearings in it are Clevite 77's. Would you happen to know if they're comparable? I just did a little searching about bearings; there's a bunch to learn!
I'm curious as to what the machine shop has to say. I would use your son, if it weren't so far. I still might if I don't hear what I want to hear!

On my list, as mentioned in the last sentence. I have to check all of them.

You didn’t lose a bearing because the bearing failed.

You need to measure the housing bore of the rod and see where it’s at.

Measure measure measure.

 

[Oldmanmopar]

Just had one come here from south Jersey. Make sure the shop you take it to thoroughly cleans the block and crank. He does recondition rods also. You can have it neutral balanced so any damper or torque converter can be used. We have dampers and can cut the weights off the converter. A good balance engine spins like an electric motor . The better the balance the les wear it has. We have 340 blocks cranks and rods. here also

 

[junkyardhero]

man, with what that damage looks like on the cap i'd be worried about it taking a ride on the carousel again with anything short of a cut on the crank and a resize/new rod.

i guess measure it and see, but my magic 8 ball says: outlook not so good

 

[toolmanmike]

Turn the crank and recondition or replace the rods. I wonder if there are others that aren't happy.

 

[TT5.9mag]

What was the bearing clearance when you stuck bearings in it early on?

 

[SpeedThrills]

You didn’t lose a bearing because the bearing failed.

You need to measure the housing bore of the rod and see where it’s at.

Measure measure measure.

A measuring we will go.

Just had one come here from south Jersey. Make sure the shop you take it to thoroughly cleans the block and crank. He does recondition rods also. You can have it neutral balanced so any damper or torque converter can be used. We have dampers and can cut the weights off the converter. A good balance engine spins like an electric motor . The better the balance the les wear it has. We have 340 blocks cranks and rods. here also

I'll be doing the cleaning. That's one aspect I'm familiar with. I'm hoping the crank I have now can be saved. Looks worse in the picture than it is, I think.

What was the bearing clearance when you stuck bearings in it early on?

.002"

I'll get back when I have more info.
Thanks everyone for getting me going in the right direction.

 

[Newbomb Turk]

A measuring we will go.

I'll be doing the cleaning. That's one aspect I'm familiar with. I'm hoping the crank I have now can be saved. Looks worse in the picture than it is, I think.


.002"

I'll get back when I have more info.
Thanks everyone for getting me going in the right direction.

Did you measure that clearance with a micrometer and bore gauge or did you use plastigauge? Both work but one is more accurate than the other.

Also, I can’t think of a time when bearings were as inconsistent as they are now.

To get my mains where they should be it took two sets of bearings.

Also, did you measure that .002 on that rod and throw? When the clearance is getting under .001/per inch of shaft diameter you need to stay away from any grade of oil with a higher grade than 30.

You just don’t need it.

 

[SpeedThrills]

Did you measure that clearance with a micrometer and bore gauge or did you use plastigauge? Both work but one is more accurate than the other.

Also, I can’t think of a time when bearings were as inconsistent as they are now.

To get my mains where they should be it took two sets of bearings.

Also, did you measure that .002 on that rod and throw? When the clearance is getting under .001/per inch of shaft diameter you need to stay away from any grade of oil with a higher grade than 30.

You just don’t need it.

I used Plastigage. I can see it not being as accurate as a mic and a bore gage. I used the latter on the cylinders and pistons. I'll have to see if I can cover 2-3 with it. (Excuse the italics, I have no idea what button I hit.)
Thanks for the heads up on bearings.
Yes, that rod was .002 when I put it together. (They all were, for that matter.)
I've been using synthetic 10W30 (I used dino to break in the rings), with Rislone zinc additive, even though the cam was already broken in. I saw a video that contradicts its use, however. Somewhere here: The Motor Oil Geek I did have a film on the bottom of the pan, which I believe he mentions as being no good. I've heard good things about Valvoline Racing Oil. I'm thinking of trying it. I like synthetic, but this zinc thing is confusing. Too little, no good. Too much, no good, etc.

 

[Bewy]

Another possibility is that the #8 rod got 'trapped'....by #7 rod. #7 rod might be bent, or has been closed & honed in the last re-build & the machining left the rod at angle. The bent #7 forces the #8 rod against the crank cheek. The oil to #8 rod is now unable to exit the brg, quickly overheats, breaks down &...brg failure.

To prevent this happening, I grind 3 oil reliefs in the rod. One at 12 oclock, one at 10 to 2 & one at 10 to ten, these last two in the bolt column. These 3 areas are the strongest part of the rod. I make the relief about 1/4" wide, 0.030" deep. If a rod is now forced against the crank cheek by it's neighbour, the oil can exit & fresh oil can enter the brg.