Squeaking Sound Coming from 225 /6

Slant 6 Engines

  1. pishta

    pishta I know I'm right....

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    • chinze57

      chinze57 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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      It’s a ‘64. I’ll go ahead and order this mech gauge from summit (exponentially cheaper than having auto zone or the like ship one to my local store - $94 vs. $20) and install it. I’ll probably pick up a holder and mount it under the dash so I can keep the stock look in my cluster and also have a proper gauge there.

      It looks like this one from summit has the drive gear, I believe.
       
    • 66 Valiant wagon

      66 Valiant wagon Well-Known Member

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      Maybe I missed it but has the pan ever been off? When I got my slant I don't think the pan had ever been off because its a pain to do. Anyway there was about 2 inches of gray sludge in the bottom of the pan. I'm sure it was always low on oil because the oil was being displaced by the sludge. So even though it read okay on the dipstick but there wasn't enough in the engine.

      Also when my 318 spun a rod bearing it was knocking not squealing. Good luck!
       
    • chinze57

      chinze57 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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      Yeah I’d expect It’s a pain. The sub frame is in the way, so the engine has to be removed I believe. I might end up getting the engine removed and check the pan sooner than later.
      Yeah it wasn’t knocking, so hopefully that’s a good sign the rod bearing isn’t spun.
       
    • 66 Valiant wagon

      66 Valiant wagon Well-Known Member

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      It doesn't have to be removed, but lifted up so you get some clearance yes. I did it in the street in front of my house. Just unbolt the motor mounts and lift it up.
       
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      • chinze57

        chinze57 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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      • chinze57

        chinze57 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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      • 66 Valiant wagon

        66 Valiant wagon Well-Known Member

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        You'll need an engine picker since there's no where to jack from.
         
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        • 69_340_GTS

          69_340_GTS Well-Known Member

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          I don't like mechanical o.p. gauges. Does it seem like a good idea to you to have a piece of plastic tubing with pressurized oil in it in the interior of the car?
           
        • chinze57

          chinze57 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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          What’s the alternative? I’m not quite sure how the electrical ones work to be honest. If it’s as easy or easier to install then I’ll do that
           
        • 69_340_GTS

          69_340_GTS Well-Known Member

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          You have a sending unit that gets wired to the gauge, and of course the whole thing needs power. They all come with instructions. I don't think it'll be a big problem installing it.
           
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          • my68barracuda

            my68barracuda Well-Known Member

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            Do you actually know someone that had the plastic line on a mechanical oil pressure gauge fail? If you do then you also know a lousy installer. Keep the line clear of exhaust manifolds and or jagged sharp edges and you will be fine. If you are worried about the possibility of a plastic line failing from a fatigue crack, just remember to change it out every 50 years, or install a steel or copper line. The metal lines are also available at Summit. With metal lines put a loop in the line close to the engine to absorb vibrations.
            The problem with electric oil pressure gauges, they are dampened, so there is no immediate feedback, mechanical gauges report in numerical psi.
             
            Last edited: Jun 18, 2020
          • my68barracuda

            my68barracuda Well-Known Member

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            That actually is a nice price on that repair kit.
            The spring controls the oil pressure by pass. Being old stock, chances are that is a good hard gear.
             
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            • chinze57

              chinze57 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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              I’ll buy that rebuild kit. No reason not to. If it ends up being something I do not immediately need, still good to have.
              I personally am slightly worried about a line failure. But the responsiveness and reliability is what’s I’m looking for, which puts mechanical far and above electrical. It will also be easier to install. Now I just just have to debate a metal line versus the rubber, which I might do. Thank you!
               
            • my68barracuda

              my68barracuda Well-Known Member

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              Photo of the passenger side rear side of the OE ‘68 slant block. The boss on the oil line was present. I drilled and tapped it for a manual oil pressure gauge. As the motor is out of the car I have a plug in the threaded hole.

              A7125182-5201-4509-84FC-92C0C1FF3561.jpeg
               
            • 69_340_GTS

              69_340_GTS Well-Known Member

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              Yes. Made a big mess.
               
            • Charrlie_S

              Charrlie_S Well-Known Member

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              I don't like the plastic lines, and the racing associations do not allow them. Copper lines have a problem, in that they can get fractured from vibration, and "work hardining". Also they can whined up getting a hole burned in it from a electrical short (wrench or bare wire). What I do is use the copper line, run inside small gauge rubber hose, like windshield washer tubing, and make sure there are vibration loops.
               
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              • Charrlie_S

                Charrlie_S Well-Known Member

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              • chinze57

                chinze57 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                6D46E203-EA7B-4A3D-A195-E1F52A708A47.jpeg C1069B2E-6F0C-48B5-A57D-A2121B57513B.jpeg
                That’s little knob with the wire coming out in the center of the photo Is the sending unit? That’s the passenger side of the engine toward the firewall (ignore my dirty engine and engine bay, had a radiator line blow whole driving around when I asked your advice about coolant)
                 
              • my68barracuda

                my68barracuda Well-Known Member

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                Yes, that is the sender location for the electric oil pressure gauge. Remember you are working to diagnose a problem, you can install the mechanical oil pressure gauge with a temporary line routing. You need good connections, mount the gauge with quick ties to the driver side windshield wiper and route the plastic line through a gap in the hood to cowl,,, and have info to determine if you have an oil pressure problem. Figure out running a secondary variable gauge later.
                 
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                • my68barracuda

                  my68barracuda Well-Known Member

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                  All I can say, with all possible respect, you screwed up the install, left out a ferrel, reused a ferrel, kinked the line,
                  Plastic lasts nearly forever,,, odds are it was operator error. Not being critical,
                   
                • chinze57

                  chinze57 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                  Got it. I’ll do a quick a and dirty install this time around to get measurements, and then later on I’ll properly Route it and t it off and mount it under the dash.

                  Hopefully I’ll get this sorted out.
                   
                • pishta

                  pishta I know I'm right....

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                  I bled mine from the inside by cracking the nut to get the air out. At 22 psi idle, I barely got a dribble out of the 1/8 OD line? The pressure popped right up on the gauge once I cinched it down but there was no oil jet squirting? Maybe I had a kink somewhere....They sell firewall isolators, mandatory for mechanical fuel pressure gauges. Just a 2 opposite ports manifold with a diaphragm in the middle and light oil running to the gauge. The fuel pressure pushes on the diaphragm transferring the pressure to the harmless fluid to the gauge in the cab..
                   
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                  • MoparMike1974

                    MoparMike1974 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                    You can get copper line, that's what I use.

                    Yes, in my 70 duster many many years ago. The line was old and brittle and it broke inside the car under the dash. I never could get the oil smell out of that car. This is why I only use the copper line now.
                     
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                    • my68barracuda

                      my68barracuda Well-Known Member

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                      I have never bled an engine oil pressure gauge,, bled hydraulic brakes yes, the pressure in a hydraulic brake line is 0 to maybe 1000 psi, the compressibility of trapped air will make a difference in system effectiveness. The pressure in a mechanical engine oil pressure line is maybe 0 to 70 psi,, you will not see the impact of trapped air. Other than bubbles in the plastic line,,, if that bothers you,, bled the bubbles out, but that will not affect the gauge.
                       
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